1957 Pre-purchase questions

C
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I am not currently a T-Bird owner, but I could be soon. The car in question has been in the same family since new. Currently has approximately 45k miles.
Everything on the car is original. I need some help in understanding some of the things I need to check on the car before making this purchase. ie. What would you want to know if you were the guy making this purchase. The current owner recently passed away & his wife is selling the car. She does not know much about the car so it's tough gain the knowledge I need to have. The car has been sitting for 3-4 yrs. The things I know that will require some attention are: new paint, tires, brakes & maybe a new top.

What are some of the trouble areas that these cars have. I am not a mechanic, but I can do the basics. Your input would be greatly appreciated.
 

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@Carver325 For a car that has remained in the family since new..that says a lot. Seven decades of “previous owners” NOT HAVING THE HANDS ON IT usually means you wont find crazy repairs that each owner believed was a good idea. Rust and rot is always a concern for me as I have gotten older because my strength and abilities are changing. I do all of my own restoration and repair work so that’s a big win in my book. I’m not lifting bodies of of frames at my age.

As more of a motorcycle restorer, ( a lot lighter too)I have had bikes from the 1920’s that had parts cut, removed, new ideas that were popular in 1950 or 1973 added or welded on and the rare parts tossed out a long time ago.

Mechanicals are typically easy to deal with as I have found almost anything is available. Of course engine compression is a good thing when it’s proper, water in brake lines, cracked and rotted rubber, weeps and leaks. All of those are manageable. Your photo looks like the car was cared for. Look at sagging doors, electric windows and seat motors, steering. This could be a car you cleanup and drive or one that needs updating first. Cost is a factor. Paying $40,000.00 for a car that needs a lot of work won’t be a great thing.

A friend had a 1960’s ford Falcon restored for nearly $55,000.00 but his reasoning is that it was his car and despite its value…he had to have it back and the money was secondary.
Good luck hope to see you back soon
 
I am not currently a T-Bird owner, but I could be soon. The car in question has been in the same family since new. Currently has approximately 45k miles.
Everything on the car is original. I need some help in understanding some of the things I need to check on the car before making this purchase. ie. What would you want to know if you were the guy making this purchase. The current owner recently passed away & his wife is selling the car. She does not know much about the car so it's tough gain the knowledge I need to have. The car has been sitting for 3-4 yrs. The things I know that will require some attention are: new paint, tires, brakes & maybe a new top.

What are some of the trouble areas that these cars have. I am not a mechanic, but I can do the basics. Your input would be greatly appreciated.
The top looks okay
You will need to drain the gas tank and flush the fuel system.
Clean carb
Change oil and you she inspect the tires and brake lines.
The fuel tank has a drain.
I bought one that was stored and drove it after that small normal maintenance.
Check the diff and trans too
 
I found this article helpful when I was beginning my search for a ‘57 a few years ago:


From my own experience, some things I’d want to know are:

1. What carburetor is on the car and what condition is it in? My ‘57 came with the original era-correct Holley “List 1273-1” carb, which is cool in terms of originality; but I had a ton of problems with it leaking, stalling, etc. I eventually sent it to Holley for a full rebuild. Much better now; but if I would have known the carb’s condition when I first got the car, I would have just immediately sent it out for a rebuild rather than hunting gremlins for 18 months with the corresponding time off road while it was in for repairs and the associated costs.

2. Overheating is a apparently a common issue. Mine doesn’t have overheating problems (knocks on wood), but that may be because it has a 6 blade aftermarket radiator fan (and an auxiliary fan in front of the radiator that I can also use when necessary). So, check to see what fan(s) the car has.

3. Fuel pump: you’ll find a ton of info here and on other forums about leaking fuel pumps. Mine was leaking and needed to be replaced or rebuilt. I chose to have my shop replace it rather than rebuild the original because it was faster to replace it. The problem, I later learned, is that the current replacement fuel pumps can be quite shoddy. So, I’d look to see what fuel pump it has and, to the extent you can ascertain, whether it’s leaking. Best case is that it’s an original “AC” fuel pump and that it’s not leaking. If it is leaking, and if it’s an original “AC” fuel pump or any other brand of “made in USA” fuel pump, my sense is that you’ll be better off having it rebuilt than replacing it with a current model replacement. There are a bunch of indications as to whether it’s a “made in USA” pump; the easiest I’ve read about is to look at the screws on top of the pump. If the screws are slotted, then it’s most likely a made in the USA model. If they are Phillips-head, star, etc., then it’s likely one of the models made abroad with which there have been many reported failures. (The attached picture is of my old pump, which I keep meaning to send out for a rebuild so that I have it handy when/if my replacement non-USA pump fails; or just swap it out in advance.)

4. If you can, check the power steering control valve and the power brake booster (assuming the car has power steering and power brakes). Both of those failed on mine within the first 2 years and had to be replaced.

5. Check to see if it has the full original jack assembly in the trunk. I wouldn’t necessarily advise actually using that jack; but having it adds value if you decide to re-sell the car later.

6. Assuming the car runs: fire it up and see if the exhaust shows signs of leaks somewhere. Obviously, also check under the car for leaks.

7. Does it have seatbelts? If not, then (I hope) you’ll need to factor in the cost of adding them.

8. Does it have the original radio? And does it work?

9. Does it have a vented gas cap? If not, you’ll want to buy one immediately. (Lots of forum threads about this too).

10. Does the heater work?

11. Does it come with the hardtop?

12. Check to see if all of the gauges work (fuel, temp, clock, etc.). It’s pretty common for one or more to stop working, the clock in particular. My clock doesn’t work; I’ll eventually get around to pulling it and having a new quartz movement put in, but haven’t been motivated enough to do it yet since it’s not a “problem” in use. Other non-working gauges would be a bigger issue, though.

13. Even though the owner’s wife may have represented in good faith that everything on the car is “original,” that may or may not actually be the case. In other words: unless she also worked on the car over the years, she wouldn’t have a way of knowing whether that’s true. I’m not a huge stickler about originality myself, but opinions vary; and in any event, it’s good to know what is in fact original and what may not be so that you know what you’re dealing with. Some common swaps I’ve seen are a new carburetor; new exhaust system; new radiator and/or radiator fan; new electronic ignition; new fuel pump; adding an accessory electric fuel pump; adding air conditioning; new radio; and then, of course, replacement interior trim.

Good luck! She’s a beauty, so hopefully you won’t find too many problems. But also: if you *do* find too many problems, don’t hesitate to walk away. Another one will pop up in due course.
 

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From the Picture, which is hard to tell, the paint looks pretty good maybe just a good buffing? I’ll just list a few things that I’ve encountered.
1. Engine
Check the oil for signs of water(chocolate milk). Inspect oil breather cap for signs of moisture. Make sure engine turns over and runs. You could do a compression test. Check for blue smoke. Do a complete oil change radiator inspection flush and change. Check all hoses for age cracking as well as the fan belt. Check carburetor gaskets for leaks. Change fuel filter. Inspect all electrical wires for age cracking and fraying and replace all that are needed especially battery cables. Check the battery. check, inspect and replace spark plugs distributor parts, cap, spark plug wires etc. inspect motor mounts. check water pump for weepage. Check for oil leaks around distributor shaft, valve cover gasket, check for water leaks around intake manifold, thermostat housing, heater hose connections, and even heater core and look for water damage on interior floorboard from a leaking heater core. not sure on a 57 but oil distributor shaft through the oil port. if it has power steering power brakes check fluid and for any leakage. Check steering box for leaks and excessive play. check heat riser for proper, free movement.

2. Interior
Pull up carpets and check for rust or water damage inspect power seat motor and electric windows if optioned. Pull out soft top and inspect. Make sure windows are operational. Check for misaligned or sagging doors as mentioned earlier. Check for rust under the weep holes of the doors and rocker panel. Check to see if radio works tachometer speedometer etc. inspect under dash for frayed wiring. Pull up trunk liner and check for rust.

3. Exterior
Inspect paint for cracks or bubbles inquire about accidents or body filler. inspect fender well lips and rocker panels for rust. inspect fuel tank for rust or sediment. Inspect and/or replace all rubber bushings in suspension if needed. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or mushiness. Check exhaust system for leaks or rust. Check for transmission leaks and inspect transmission fluid to make sure it’s red and not burnt brown. if manual transmission check clutch for slippage. Inspect brake drum housings for leaks and inspect brake lines for deterioration or leaks. depending on how long the car is been sitting you may want to flush and replace rear end fluid. Check the back of the rear axle housing to brake backing plates for leaks. check driveshaft and you joints for excessive play. if you can get it on a rack this would make a lot of this inspection much easier. check tires for checking, tread separation or bubbles. Check all electrical switches and lights. search for any frayed wiring. check front wheel bearings for excessive play or crunching noises. wheels and check brake cylinders for leakage and condition of brake shoes. Flush brake fluid.

And I’m sure they’ll be plenty of other things I haven’t thought of but good luck and welcome to the T-Bird family!
 
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If it's been sitting 3-4 years it shouldn't be too bad. brake drums may be a little rust but driven slowly the rust should knock down but expect some break-in. Definitely fresh fuel and fluids. The brakes should be flushed as brake fluid attracts moisture causing rust in the M/C and booster.
 
Primarily you need to look at the underside of the car for frame rust and integrity
Check the underside of the floor and frame body mounts as well
Look at the lower corners of the body quarter panels and rockers for rust
This is were I would start, cause if the frame or body need major work
That would severely affect what I would offer

If that all checks ok then move on to engine and drive train
 
I am not currently a T-Bird owner, but I could be soon. The car in question has been in the same family since new. Currently has approximately 45k miles.
Everything on the car is original. I need some help in understanding some of the things I need to check on the car before making this purchase. ie. What would you want to know if you were the guy making this purchase. The current owner recently passed away & his wife is selling the car. She does not know much about the car so it's tough gain the knowledge I need to have. The car has been sitting for 3-4 yrs. The things I know that will require some attention are: new paint, tires, brakes & maybe a new top.

What are some of the trouble areas that these cars have. I am not a mechanic, but I can do the basics. Your input would be greatly appreciated.
You probably should replace the gas tank with a stainless one. Flush the lines with high pressure air or replace them. The carb should be rebuilt by a pro because the original was not expecting to come in contact with alcohol. The brakes are probably original and you may want to replace them with a set of disks. Wilwood has a complete system. Pull the plugs and squirt a bit of thin, machine oil or light motor oil because they will certainly be dry. Check the coolant level. If it is an automatic, check the TFluid and PS reservoir. If the brakes are not frozen, or the O-rings in the master cylinder shot, you may be able to drive it.
 
well..thought the helpful comments, you have a wide range of things to look at, and do or not do. I suggest list them all..then prioritize..for your possible new to you car..check that no major costly absolutely necessary to drive and have fun--repairs that put price to high or out of your range or willingness to do or spend. Once you own it, Driveability and safety first-,I have started many cars that sat with doing the basics..as you see in the comments. I won't repeat them here. You certainly do not need to replace entire systems at this point, and even ever. You may not need a new fuel tank and lines, nor brake parts, much less disc brakes --ever. Hope it works out..a joy to have these.
Nico
 
If you want it safe, 4W disks. If you let it sit in a climate that ranges in temp to cause condensation on a cold beer, get a stainless tank.
 
If you want it safe, 4W disks. If you let it sit in a climate that ranges in temp to cause condensation on a cold beer, get a stainless tank.
drum brakes are just fine. Worked on millions of cars for years. Disc is better if many repeated hard stops or rain..You can lock up with drum same as disc. No reason to modify an original car, nor spend a lot.
Nick
 
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