1957 Hood release stiff

[willcarterdc]

My release cable is also pretty hard to pull. It has a lot of tension. In my case, the issue isn’t with the hood pins or latches: it’s the release cable itself. That is, even with the hood already open and raised, it still takes a great deal of force to pull the release cable. So adjusting the hood pins and/or latches wouldn’t help in my case. And it doesn’t feel liked the cable is “gritty”; it feels quite smooth through the entire throw. It just has a lot of tension.

I may be missing something, but I don’t see a response in the replies thus far regarding this issue, so: any tips on how to relieve some of the tension in the release cable itself?

Thanks!

 

[Ward 57]

My release cable is also pretty hard to pull. It has a lot of tension. In my case, the issue isn’t with the hood pins or latches: it’s the release cable itself. That is, even with the hood already open and raised, it still takes a great deal of force to pull the release cable. So adjusting the hood pins and/or latches wouldn’t help in my case. And it doesn’t feel liked the cable is “gritty”; it feels quite smooth through the entire throw. It just has a lot of tension.

I may be missing something, but I don’t see a response in the replies thus far regarding this issue, so: any tips on how to relieve some of the tension in the release cable itself?

Thanks!

Yes, I sprayed the heck out of my cable with PB Blaster from both ends. It's a penetrating and rust relief lubricant. I also sprayed down all my vent control cables and it did wonders for mt E brake cable which was also acting the way your hood release cable was. Worked wonders

 

[TBBLUE02]

Thanks for all your suggestions! I installed a new cable (From Larry's), loosened the two hood pins about a full turn, generously greased all hood hold down points and installed a second hood release line. The hood now opens easily every time. I believe the tension springs in parts 16700/1 are way to strong but I guess there's nothing that can be done to relieve the tension.

I drilled a small hole in the cable pull lever (16742) and a small hole in the firewall. I used a coat hanger and ran it through the firewall from the pull lever. I attached the pull handle from the old cable that broke off and hid it under the IP. You wouldn't know it was even there..

 

[willcarterdc]

Would you mind posting a picture of your new setup? I’m particular interested in seeing where/how you have the coat hanger affixed to the pull level under hood.

 

[willcarterdc]

I’m also curious as to why you decided to drill a hole in the firewall. At a glance, there appears to be enough room to run a coat hanger through the existing cable hole. But maybe not; I haven’t examined it thoroughly, so maybe there’s not enough room for both a hanger and the existing cable to both go through that hole.

 

[TBBLUE02]

Would you mind posting a picture of your new setup? I’m particular interested in seeing where/how you have the coat hanger affixed to the pull level under hood.

My T-Bird is in having some work done to the front suspension. I should get it back about mid next week (Aug 31 +/-). I will post a couple of pix then. It is very easy to do, if I can do it anyone can!

 

[TBBLUE02]

I’m also curious as to why you decided to drill a hole in the firewall. At a glance, there appears to be enough room to run a coat hanger through the existing cable hole. But maybe not; I haven’t examined it thoroughly, so maybe there’s not enough room for both a hanger and the existing cable to both go through that hole.

I believe that you would have to remove that grommet to make room for the coat hanger to pass. Your call. The coat hanger hole is very small. Unless you are going for a concourse restoration this fix is the easiest way to make a backup hood release. The only other way to raise the hood when the cable breaks/becomes loose is to put the car on a hoist and struggle to move the release lever toward the firewall against the high resistance springs. It method might not be perfect but it works just fine.

 

[willcarterdc]

I believe that you would have to remove that grommet to make room for the coat hanger to pass. Your call. The coat hanger hole is very small. Unless you are going for a concourse restoration this fix is the easiest way to make a backup hood release. The only other way to raise the hood when the cable breaks/becomes loose is to put the car on a hoist and struggle to move the release lever toward the firewall against the high resistance springs. It method might not be perfect but it works just fine.

Thanks. You’re correct; a hanger won’t also fit in that same hole. I just tried it.

Interestingly, though, I noticed while I was under the hood that there’s already an empty hole drilled through the firewall on my car just above the hole for the release cable! (See first attached picture). So, I ran a coat hanger through there. I have no idea what used to be there, but it works for this purpose.

A related question now occurs to me: isn’t there some danger in running an uninsulated and “ungrounded” metal coat hanger thru that location? (Quote marks indicate that I know nothing about electricity other than to wear rubber gloves when anywhere near it). The *reason* this occurs to me is that in maneuvering the coat hanger to get it through that hole, the hanger briefly touched the part shown in the second attached picture, and I got a little spark. (As a novice, I don’t know what that part is). The spark was tiny, but it scared the heck out of me - hopefully, I didn’t toast the electronics…

Anyway: does the coat hanger need to be grounded or insulated in some manner for safety? Afraid to start the car until I know…

 

[Ward 57]

That is the starter relay and the constant hot cable from the battery. It looks like you have a few wraps around the release lever away from that electrical stuff.
I don't understand why your yellow ignition wires coming from the switch are coming through the firewall right next to the solenoid and that incorrect red wire running over the stud to who knows where. The wires should be in a loom coming from a grommeted port on the left rear of the engine compartment behind the battery. Somebody has rewired it not paying attention to detail or originality. May be functional but I would worry about chafe on those wires as I see no grommet at the firewall to prevent it.

 

[paul5456]

I ran a thinner wire through the same hole as the factory cable. No problem.

 

[willcarterdc]

Thanks, Ward. I’ll start another thread about the ignition wire issue you mentioned: it’s a bit over my head (plus, I don’t want to clutter the thread with a different issue).

I’m still not clear on whether the hanger needs to be grounded and/or insulted in some manner for safety. Anyone have thoughts?

 

[Ward 57]

Thanks, Ward. I’ll start another thread about the ignition wire issue you mentioned: it’s a bit over my head (plus, I don’t want to clutter the thread with a different issue).

I’m still not clear on whether the hanger needs to be grounded and/or insulted in some manner for safety. Anyone have thoughts?

No grounding needed.

 

[doug7740]

Thanks for all your suggestions! I installed a new cable (From Larry's), loosened the two hood pins about a full turn, generously greased all hood hold down points and installed a second hood release line. The hood now opens easily every time. I believe the tension springs in parts 16700/1 are way to strong but I guess there's nothing that can be done to relieve the tension.

I drilled a small hole in the cable pull lever (16742) and a small hole in the firewall. I used a coat hanger and ran it through the firewall from the pull lever. I attached the pull handle from the old cable that broke off and hid it under the IP. You wouldn't know it was even there..

The attached article is from the June/July 2022 Early Bird magazine.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[TBBLUE02]

My T-Bird is in having some work done to the front suspension. I should get it back about mid next week (Aug 31 +/-). I will post a couple of pix then. It is very easy to do, if I can do it anyone can!

Here’s a couple of pix of the coat hanger method I used (yes, I know I must make it look pretty). If you use the firewall method, please check under the dash, and temporally move any wires that might contact the drill bit. Make sure to leave enough length of the coat hanger to tuck up under the OE hood release handle so it can press against the back of the IP and not rattle or dangle down.

Come winter (in Michigan) and the old girl is not on the road, I’m thinking of removing the spring on the passenger side to relieve some pressure on the OE hood release cable. The two springs are very
high pressure. I think that removing one spring will leave sufficient pressure to latch/unlatch the hood mechanism. Comments welcomed.

 

[55blacktie]

TB, let us know how removing one spring works.

 

[Ward 57]

Here’s a couple of pix of the coat hanger method I used (yes, I know I must make it look pretty). If you use the firewall method, please check under the dash, and temporally move any wires that might contact the drill bit. Make sure to leave enough length of the coat hanger to tuck up under the OE hood release handle so it can press against the back of the IP and not rattle or dangle down.

Come winter (in Michigan) and the old girl is not on the road, I’m thinking of removing the spring on the passenger side to relieve some pressure on the OE hood release cable. The two springs are very
high pressure. I think that removing one spring will leave sufficient pressure to latch/unlatch the hood mechanism. Comments welcomed.

There must be a better way to address the problem. The engineers were not stupid but didn't expect these cars to still be popular after 60yrs. I'd try to fix the issue before modifying. Easiest is to unscrew the pins and reduce the tension. I can drop my hood from 1 foot and it latches and releases just fine.

 

[TBBLUE02]

It's not the springs on the hood that I'm talking about. It's the release springs on the hood release mechanism (16701 (L&R). It was 'normal' in the 50s and 60s for things to be overbuilt - not stupidity. Thankfully things have dramatically improved. If the vehicles built in the 50s & 60s were on the market today along side todays vehicles they would be considered junk.

 

[Thunder rd]

Hood hard to open release handle needs to be pulled quite hard .
Pulled handle off cable last night trying to release hood!

Hood latch probably needs adjusting force side to side adjusting put a piece of masking tape on throat of latch put grease on tape close hood lightly see where hood strikes tape makes mark on tape dont break tape move latch until the hood hits directly in center of tape . Up and own is alittle harder if you're fender and hood are pretty level and you can drop hood from say 18 inches and it closes its ok
If not adjust latch up until it does use alots of grease petroleum jelly will work . Tranmission fluid is excellent it will creep up into things. Observe how the hood closes if it moves to one side or gap is not right adjust hood start all over . Seem like along winded way to get to a hard to pull hood cable but that's where it all starts. Also hood cable can be taken aloose to see if it is binding inside slieve . Squirt trans fluid in end it will creep in cable.
.

 

[CSPIDY]

Here’s a couple of pix of the coat hanger method I used (yes, I know I must make it look pretty). If you use the firewall method, please check under the dash, and temporally move any wires that might contact the drill bit. Make sure to leave enough length of the coat hanger to tuck up under the OE hood release handle so it can press against the back of the IP and not rattle or dangle down.

Come winter (in Michigan) and the old girl is not on the road, I’m thinking of removing the spring on the passenger side to relieve some pressure on the OE hood release cable. The two springs are very
high pressure. I think that removing one spring will leave sufficient pressure to latch/unlatch the hood mechanism. Comments welcomed.

Very nicely done
I see what you’ve done as a back for an emergency
Even a properly adjusted latch can not prevent the cable from braking

 

[Nico57]

I realize this is 6 months later and you have likely gotten into the hood by now but, as I have been reading about all things t-bird, there is this creative tool

Tool - Emergency Hood Release-classictbird.com

www.classictbird.com

the redundant cable is best pre-emptive fix, but the tool, or a homemade one, to access the latch mechanism from under the car is also good to have. I suggest both: and take a few photos of the latch: Where it is, or make a sketch, and when convenient do a trial test of using the tool from under and make a few notes, as when needed you will not be able to see the latch, or how to move it..so you need to know in advance where and how to place and manipulate the tool rod on the latch to move the release. Either way, it is not an matter of IF, it is WHEN. Don't ask how I know.
Nico57