1957 Bird engine running warm

[handyman]

We recently bought our 57 t bird, 3 speed 292 eng, it is running 3/4 on the temp gauge , what is normal, and what would cause this to be on the warm side. thanks. handyman

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[didi]

got my '65 a while ago, came with no thermostat installed, put new one in, still running warm,
now I exchanged the radiator and water pump which was totally clogged, now my girl is running cool,
hope this helps!

 

[seeswell]

Changed my thermostat and replaced the radiator with a 3 row aluminum. No problems. Kept the old radiator to go with the car if I part with it (not likely in the near future).

 

[cokefirst]

3/4 is not unusual in the early Thunderbirds. A clean system is a must. The most likely cause for the overheating in these cars is the spacer that moves the water pump forward about an inch to lign up the fan belt. This moves the water pump impeller away from the back of the timing chain cover and does not have the same efficiency to move water. CASCO, a supplier of parts for Classic Thunderbirds in Coshocton Ohio has a special water pump spacer that they claim was flow tested to solve the problem. The part is NOT cheap, but if it works as advertised, it may be money well spent. I have no financial interest in the spacer or CASCO.

 

[CSPIDY]

unless you have noticed a shift in the temperature, if the needle is within the arc you are good to go.

 

[handyman]

got my '65 a while ago, came with no thermostat installed, put new one in, still running warm,
now I exchanged the radiator and water pump which was totally clogged, now my girl is running cool,
hope this helps!

unless you have noticed a shift in the temperature, if the needle is within the arc you are good to go.

Thanks for all the replys. I will check the thermostat and water temp in the radiator when hot, have a rad,cap with a temp needle now. thanks again.

 

[jack-in-sac]

In general a well tuned engine is necessary for proper reliability and temperature.

As to cooling in general:
Most of the complaints I hear of are at low speeds in traffic or use in parades. In this use the car moves slowly and at relatively low r.p.m.s. The result is higher than desired engine temperatures from less than optimal air flowing through the radiator for adequate cooling. The use of a "parade fan" is desirable for this to increase air flow through the radiator allowing adequate coolant temperature reduction.
Things I have discovered as contributing to running hot include, but are not limited to;
Incorrect timing; if the engine has many miles the timing chain may stretch. Timing with a light is then inaccurate. To correct for this I suggest use of a vacuum gauge for timing.
Faulty vacuum advance. I have observed many cases of the diaphragm being torn, punctured ot otherwise worn out. The result being inadequate advance.
Build-up of sediment in the block that creates hot spots and poor coolant circulation.
Faulty radiator cap, they do wear out.
Faulty thermostat or wrong temperature choice for the thermostat.
Radiator clogs. Use of a radiator that over time flows less water than needed for cooling.
Along with this can be a radiator of insufficient core size. In general a 4 core in a steel/brass-copper radiator is adequate.
If you have a 55 with the 3 blade fan, not generally adequate. The later 4 blade fan may also be inadequate for air flow through the radiator at parade or heavy traffic speeds.

I see a modern consensus of:
Non stock fans of at least 6 blade flex fans.
Along with this I recommend the use of an aftermarket lower shroud that covers the two lower corners of the radiator. The stock semi-circular lower shroud does not draw air through the two lower corners of the radiator.
A thermostat of a rating of 180 degrees should be satisfactory. Additionally drilling a 1/8" hole at the top of the flat portion of the thermostat to allow "burping" of the air out of the cooling system.
As a final caveat, you may need more initial advance for successful temperature control of the engine.

 

[handyman]

We recently bought our 57 t bird, 3 speed 292 eng, it is running 3/4 on the temp gauge , what is normal, and what would cause this to be on the warm side. thanks. handyman

Well I found out the thermostat was in three pieces when I went to change it, plus we removed the air conditioner and the AC condensor, in front of the radiator, (forgot what it's called) and now the bird runs at 1/3 on the temp gage. Those two Items along with a new water pump did the trick for me. It seems the condensor was blocking too much air from the radiator, the radiator checked out good. Handyman

 

[jack-in-sac]

Well I found out the thermostat was in three pieces when I went to change it, plus we removed the air conditioner and the AC condensor, in front of the radiator, (forgot what it's called) and now the bird runs at 1/3 on the temp gage. Those two Items along with a new water pump did the trick for me. It seems the condensor was blocking too much air from the radiator, the radiator checked out good. Handyman

It may not have been the condenser. I have AC in my Bird and it runs at 185 all day. I have the stock gauge and a VDO gauge. They are remarkably close in their indications of temp.

 

[jack-in-sac]

It may not have been the condenser. I have AC in my Bird and it runs at 185 all day. I have the stock gauge and a VDO gauge. They are remarkably close in their indications of temp.

I might also mention that some years ago there was a batch of water pumps with the impeller pressed on incorrectly and did not function well enough to cool the engine properly.

 

[Birdman57]

We recently bought our 57 t bird, 3 speed 292 eng, it is running 3/4 on the temp gauge , what is normal, and what would cause this to be on the warm side. thanks. handyman

These cars run hot at idle or in slow traffic I would suggest investing in a five blade fan or an electric fan Didn’t realize 292’s were still being put in 57