1957-292 Y block rear crankshaft seal

[Hernando Muñoz]

Hello friends
I have a Ranch Wagon with 292 Y block on which I need to replace the real crankshaft oil seal. I have removed the oil pan (tough job), removed the bottom seal aluminum holder, removed the last crankshaft support (and will loosen the other ones) to ease the job. Nevertheless, I don't see quite clear how to pull out the upper rope seal. Any ideas? I have seen videos, but they show when the seal is already coming out, not how to actually grab it when its extreme is totally flat.
Thanks for your advice.
Hernando Munoz
Costa Rica

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[sre]

I bought a tool, one end was Chinese fingers the other is like a very small corkscrew, very thin screws into the rope to pull it out.

 

[74 Harley]

I have used a small punch or medium sized flat screwdriver and carefully tap one end of the seal to get it started coming out. You have to be careful to not damage the crankshaft.

 

[Hernando Muñoz]

I have used a small punch or medium sized flat screwdriver and carefully tap one end of the seal to get it started coming out. You have to be careful to not damage the crankshaft.

Mny thanks. I considered doing as you say, but my concern is the possibility of damaging the original rope seal (which is most likely worn, anyway) and not been able to remove it. So, I am tempted to just leave the upper rope (original) seal and just replace the bottom part with the new type of seal (made out of hard silicon) and meet the old and the new seal with some grey RTV, hoping to marry old and new seals.... hopefully it will work.
If it definitely does not work, then I will have to repeat the job and get the upper seal removed, like it or not. I am waiting now for the spare parts to get to my country and when done, I will get back to you with the results.

 

[74 Harley]

They're really not that hard to get out.

 

[Hernando Muñoz]

They're really not that hard to get out.

I may try your technique, maybe with a small square punch the size of the rope gasket or smaller.

 

[74 Harley]

You may even be able to make a punch out of wood. No possibility of damaging anything.

 

[1957Bird]

The tool is available on AmazonMade by Lisle, 2700 called a sneaky Pete tool.
I have one it worked fairly well.
Good luck.

 

[CSPIDY]

What if you just loosen all of the main bearing caps to take some of the pressure off of the seal?

 

[Bebo]

Mny thanks. I considered doing as you say, but my concern is the possibility of damaging the original rope seal (which is most likely worn, anyway) and not been able to remove it. So, I am tempted to just leave the upper rope (original) seal and just replace the bottom part with the new type of seal (made out of hard silicon) and meet the old and the new seal with some grey RTV, hoping to marry old and new seals.... hopefully it will work.
If it definitely does not work, then I will have to repeat the job and get the upper seal removed, like it or not. I am waiting now for the spare parts to get to my country and when done, I will get back to you with the results.

It's like plugging half of a hole. After all your work, the last thing you want is to have to do it again. Replace the top and bottom of the rope seal and only after soaking it in oil for at least 24 hours. Good luck, I'm going to have to do the same thing on my 57 T-bird. Tese Y-blocks are notorious for rear main seals leaking.

 

[cokefirst]

The original rope seals had asbestos in them. They are no made without the lead and DO NOT work as well as the early asbestos ones. Use the Best Gaskets seal. Look at this article. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/0810sr-bestgasket-rope-seals-ford-y-block/

 

[1957Bird]

This topic has been run around the barn numerous times, in my opinion the only replacement seal to use is the kit that Prestige Thunderbird offers. It is a slightly different design silicone seal with an entirely different design lower retainer block that they designed.
Comes with very comprehensive instructions, not cheap but bottom line is IT WORKS.
And yes it can be done on a creeper with the engine in the car.

Good Day
Roger

 

[jack-in-sac]

It's like plugging half of a hole. After all your work, the last thing you want is to have to do it again. Replace the top and bottom of the rope seal and only after soaking it in oil for at least 24 hours. Good luck, I'm going to have to do the same thing on my 57 T-bird. Tese Y-blocks are notorious for rear main seals leaking.

Actually the 312 which uses a different seal design is known for leaking. 292s and smaller use a different design.