1957 damper main bolt removal

[Hernando Muñoz]

Hi friends.
My engine is a Y-block 202 on a Ranch Wagon (type C).
I discovered the Harmonic Balancer ("damper") got loose from its core. Scary sound (like noisy bells).
I am trying to remove the balancer but first I need to remove the 3 pulleys (2 front which are held by a 3/4 nut bolt and 2 smaller side bolts, and finally the damper with a single groove V belt).
Question No.1
How can I remove the center bolt (which I presume is quite long as it goes all the way to the crankshaft)? Any recommendations? It seems to be incredibly tight.
Is it normal right thread to be removed counterclockwise (or reverse "left thread") ...just to be sure I am not tightening instead of losing it.
Question No.2
Is it OK if I block the crankshaft with the manual transmission in 1st gear and the hand brake?
Also, recommend the final installation torque I need to use. Should I use blue or green "Loctite"?
Question No.3
Can you recommend a replacement Harmonic Balancer that fits the 292? (eBay or Amazon, etc.)
Question No.4
Can you recommend a tool (puller) to do the job easier?

Many thanks for your valuable time
Hernando Munoz
Costa Rica

 

[jack-in-sac]

Hi friends.
My engine is a Y-block 202 on a Ranch Wagon (type C).
I discovered the Harmonic Balancer ("damper") got loose from its core. Scary sound (like noisy bells).
I am trying to remove the balancer but first I need to remove the 3 pulleys (2 front which are held by a 3/4 nut bolt and 2 smaller side bolts, and finally the damper with a single groove V belt).
Question No.1
How can I remove the center bolt (which I presume is quite long as it goes all the way to the crankshaft)? Any recommendations? It seems to be incredibly tight.
Is it normal right thread to be removed counterclockwise (or reverse "left thread") ...just to be sure I am not tightening instead of losing it.
Question No.2
Is it OK if I block the crankshaft with the manual transmission in 1st gear and the hand brake?
Also, recommend the final installation torque I need to use. Should I use blue or green "Loctite"?
Question No.3
Can you recommend a replacement Harmonic Balancer that fits the 292? (eBay or Amazon, etc.)
Question No.4
Can you recommend a tool (puller) to do the job easier?

Many thanks for your valuable time
Hernando Munoz
Costa Rica

It should be right hand thread( lefty - loosey, righty - tighty ) You may need to have your balancer rebuilt. I suggest if you do not have a shop manual for 1957 Fords you get one. They are available from the Thunderbird specialty suppliers and other suppliers for old Fords. To the best of my knowledge there are no "new" harmonic balancers. If there are any new ones I suggest an auto parts store like NAPA if you have them in Costa Rica. There is a rebuilder of harmonic balancers in Redding California USA. The name is Damper Doctor. Torque specifications are 85-95 ft. lbs.except 312 which is #135 - #145.

 

[Hernando Muñoz]

Many thanks!
I found on eBay various "cloned" new dampers/pulley. Not cheap but will need to buy and import.
How will you loosen the main bolt?
Can I use the gearbox and hand-brake to "brake the crankshaft " while loosening the bolt?
Regards
Hernando Munoz

Pd. I have the 57 fairlane manual...Will look in there too.

 

[jack-in-sac]

Many thanks!
I found on eBay various "cloned" new dampers/pulley. Not cheap but will need to buy and import.
How will you loosen the main bolt?
Can I use the gearbox and hand-brake to "brake the crankshaft " while loosening the bolt?
Regards
Hernando Munoz

Pd. I have the 57 fairlane manual...Will look in there too.

You will want a passenger car damper, not a thunderbird damper. They are different and the T-Bird will cost more. The bolt appears to be right hand thread and a 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket and breaker-bar or ratchet. A long cheater bar can provide more leverage. You might try using kroil or PB blaster before trying. sometimes on things like this I will apply some heat then spray the penetrant where it is sucked in . Kind of like soldering. Chances are the bolt has been in there a very long time. You may need a sleeve for the crank snout is if it has a wear groove(s) in it.

 

[Hernando Muñoz]

You will want a passenger car damper, not a thunderbird damper. They are different and the T-Bird will cost more. The bolt appears to be right hand thread and a 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket and breaker-bar or ratchet. A long cheater bar can provide more leverage. You might try using kroil or PB blaster before trying. sometimes on things like this I will apply some heat then spray the penetrant where it is sucked in . Kind of like soldering. Chances are the bolt has been in there a very long time. You may need a sleeve for the crank snout is if it has a wear groove(s) in it.

Thanks!
I will follow your advice ad revert.

 

[Hernando Muñoz]

Dear colleagues
I heated the bolt and applied penetrant oil, used a pry bar (with the car in reverse gear and the hand brake tight), and I got the bolt out finally..!!
The accessory pulley came right of easily. Now I will see if I need the special tool to remove it or if one of my old pullers will work..
I will keep you posted with results. Also, I found this Harmonic Balancer on eBay which seems to be the right one.....

Harmonic balancer 1955 and UP Ford 272 292 312 Y Block reproduction damper USMCA | eBay

New custom made replica harmonic balancer, damper by Fits: Ford Y Block 55-up. Products supplied are warranted to be free from material and manufacture defects. overall width 6.5. Technical support available 9 am to 4 pm CST.

www.ebay.com

Regards
Hernando Munoz

 

[doug7740]

This is the tool that I use to remove the damper pulley. It works like a charm.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Tool - Damper & Pulley Removal-classictbird.com

www.classictbird.com

 

[jack-in-sac]

This is the tool that I use to remove the damper pulley. It works like a charm.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Tool - Damper & Pulley Removal-classictbird.com

www.classictbird.com

I know this is the tool for Thunderbird dampers. I have two. I do not know if it also works for passenger car variants.

Thank you for sharing this link to the damper. This is news to me and good news.

As doug7740 said this is a great tool. I would check with a supplier like CASCO or others to find out if it works for passenger car dampers. I hope it does. For T-Birds it is the best and only one that I know. It really does work like a charm.

 

[paul5456]

The sedan damper is a different thing altogether and the tool shown will not work with sedan damper.

When setting up to pull the damper, take out the bolt and washer and reinsert the bolt w/o the washer. This protects the threads in the crank and provided a good footing to the center piece of the puller.

 

[Ward 57]

The sedan damper is a different thing altogether and the tool shown will not work with sedan damper.

When setting up to pull the damper, take out the bolt and washer and reinsert the bolt w/o the washer. This protects the threads in the crank and provided a good footing to the center piece of the puller.

So many people forget this simple process. Whether it's pulling something off a stud or having to pound out a fastener from the tread side if you want to preserve it. Thread chasers don't like mushroomed ends.

 

[Hernando Muñoz]

Thanks for such valuable advice. I have purchased (eBay) this tool to pull the damper, and now I will definitely use the bolt to sit the puller core.