1956 polishing the aluminum valve cover

[ladytb]

Anybody have a good way to polish the aluminum valve covers on a '56

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[knuckle47]

From my experiences with aluminum parts the ‘BEST’ way would be to take them off and use an aluminum buffing compounds and buffing wheels. On the other hand, “simichrome” and elbow grease will do a decent job if you want to leave them in place. Of course the grooves on top will be harder and the effects of the shine will re-oxidize slowly. Amazon has it in larger cans. The tube gets used up quickly

 

[ladytb]

Thanks I've got them off and am trying with a buffing wheel on my drill??

 

[biddle]

When you post to the forums, please choose a subject that summarizes your post and has the four-digit model year. "'56 aluminum valve cover" could mean anything. Revising now.

 

[biddle]

Anybody have a good way to polish the aluminum valve covers on a '56

Check out this kit I posted a couple of days ago- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...ratches-with-this-polish-compounds-kit.13445/

 

[knuckle47]

I have a pedestal buffer with a 12” pad on each side…one is for fine, the other side is for super fine compound. The drill can work but may stall with any pressure

 

[55blacktie]

Pedestal buffer best, but you'll need rouge.

 

[paul5456]

Eastwood has all the polishing compounds that you need. And I agree on the pedestal buffer being the best way.

 

[knuckle47]

I made up my pedestal buffer with an extra electric motor and a pedestal frame. Mounted the whole thing on the top of a recycled kitchen cabinet. Supplies are stored on the shelves below. The 12” wheels are cotton and about 3” thick. As soft as they are, they spin fast enough to become fairly rigid and should you catch an edge, it can pull the item right out of your hands. But they are capable of producing a very professional polished surface.

Buffing Assembly - Grizzly Industrial

<h1>W1681 Shop Fox Buffing Assembly</h1>The double-arbor W1681 Shop Fox Buffing Assembly provides a low-cost alternative to expensive buffing stations. <p>A three-step pulley and drive belt system combine with any 1/3 or larger horsepower motor to produce a versatile buffing system. <p>The motor...

www.grizzly.com

Mine is about 20yrs old and as I see now, about 1/2 the cost. Still may be worth it if you’re a tinkerer

https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/w1681_m.pdf The motor mount eliminates tension adjustments

 

[Ward 57]

That sounds pretty neat. Hmm.. would it be possible to put a rheostat on it to slow it down for delicate work? I think the last time cleaned mine it was all manual work ( I was too lazy to pull them and then have to replace all the gaskets that don't leak at all )and a wire brush for the detents. Then touched up the logo with the proper turquois and red inserts.

 

[Calistoga T-Bird]

Polishing is a rather simple but time intensive process, refine the finish with progressively finer abrasives.

1. Remove them from the engine.
2. Degrease them with lacquer thinner.
3. I would try 320 first. If that isn’t working go up to 220. Then progress to 220, 400, 600, 800 wet sand papers, taking out all the coarser scratches from the previous paper. Once you have a clean 800 surface, you can go to the compound wheels. I have also used a chrome polishing compond like; Renegade, USA Rebel Pipe Dream Chrome Polish.

Produced a mirror finish.

And I agree with Ward 57, then repaint (available from CASCO).

 

[willcarterdc]

Polishing is a rather simple but time intensive process, refine the finish with progressively finer abrasives.

1. Remove them from the engine.
2. Degrease them with lacquer thinner.
3. I would try 320 first. If that isn’t working go up to 220. Then progress to 220, 400, 600, 800 wet sand papers, taking out all the coarser scratches from the previous paper. Once you have a clean 800 surface, you can go to the compound wheels. I have also used a chrome polishing compond like; Renegade, USA Rebel Pipe Dream Chrome Polish.

Produced a mirror finish.

And I agree with Ward 57, then repaint (available from CASCO).

That repainting looks great! May I ask how you went about doing it? Seems like painting around/between the letters of the “thunderbird” script would be extremely challenging. Did you tape off the letters? You’d have to have the dexterity of a neurosurgeon to do it freehand! (Or at least a lot more dexterity than me).

Or was it just a couple of touch ups rather than a full repainting of the blue area?

 

[Ward 57]

That repainting looks great! May I ask how you went about doing it? Seems like painting around/between the letters of the “thunderbird” script would be extremely challenging. Did you tape off the letters? You’d have to have the dexterity of a neurosurgeon to do it freehand! (Or at least a lot more dexterity than me).

Or was it just a couple of touch ups rather than a full repainting of the blue area?

You can get detail small brushes at most art supply, paint department in hardware or hobby stores. You don't need to be perfect. Once the paint is dry you can take some very fine sandpaper and clean off anything that is not in the recess of the emblem. Same thing goes for the exterior badges that have recessed painted areas. Really makes them pop.

 

[55blacktie]

Unless your valve covers are beat-up, there shouldn't be a need to sand them before polishing. I've polished cast-aluminum valve covers on a pedestal buffer w/o first sanding and was satisfied with the results. Nevertheless, it's a tedious, time-consuming process. If you are looking for absolute perfection, you might want to go the extra mile and sand first, making them better than new.

 

[knuckle47]

That sounds pretty neat. Hmm.. would it be possible to put a rheostat on it to slow it down for delicate work? I think the last time cleaned mine it was all manual work ( I was too lazy to pull them and then have to replace all the gaskets that don't leak at all )and a wire brush for the detents. Then touched up the logo with the proper turquois and red inserts.

I believe the slower speeds on the pads will not produce the abrasion polishing that those ultra fine rouges can provide. Heat and pressure are part of the process to a degree and while it would work, you will sacrifice a great outcome for a very good one….dumb but it works that way

 

[Calistoga T-Bird]

After polishing you need to clean the covers, I use lacquer thinner.
As far as the paint, paint needle syringe. Make sure they are level. Tape the ends of the wings and sqeeze the paint to the valleys. Should you get some paint on the high spots, you can just wipe the paint off.

 

[Ward 57]

After polishing you need to clean the covers, I use lacquer thinner.
As far as the paint, paint needle syringe. Make sure they are level. Tape the ends of the wings and sqeeze the paint to the valleys. Should you get some paint on the high spots, you can just wipe the paint off.

Are you talking about the emblem valleys or the vanes on the rest. Ther should be no paint other than on the embossed emblems only not in the long recesses on the rest of the cover. Custom builders do that for more expensive 'bling' but it was not done at the factory.

 

[Calistoga T-Bird]

Tape off the ends of the wings and fill in (paint) the Turquoise Blue.

 

[ladytb]

Anybody have a good way to polish the aluminum valve covers on a '56

Just wanted to say THANKS to all that answered re polishing the valve covers - here is my handiwork!

 

[odannyboy]

Well what I did was get a hand held sand blaster from Harbor Freight, on low-ish air pressure did the fin and logo. Found a wire brush for my drill, very soft touch type brush, don't know where to get a friend had some. Ran over the outside, making sure to clean not harsh scrub it. Used a brillo type pad next. After I redo the logo paint, I will use Eastwood clear, Dupli-Color Engine Paint with CERAMIC Clear Aerosol 12 OZ DE1636. They said it can stand the extra heat. SO far Eastwood has been great to use.
Yup takes time and gentle touch.
pics before trunk, after undercoating it, The Brush