1956 Jack stand positioning

[knuckle47]

I am going to try to lift the car with 4 Jack stand. My question is: where is the best location to place the 4 Jack stands so that the car is stable enough to crawl in and out of as well as under. Logic tells me to stay on the straight lines of the frame which is about 6” behind the front wheels and 6” in front of the rear wheels.

However, I used logic before and gotten into trouble so, I prefer someone with experience advise me.

 

[Thunderizer]

I am going to try to lift the car with 4 Jack stand. My question is: where is the best location to place the 4 Jack stands so that the car is stable enough to crawl in and out of as well as under. Logic tells me to stay on the straight lines of the frame which is about 6” behind the front wheels and 6” in front of the rear wheels.

However, I used logic before and gotten into trouble so, I prefer someone with experience advise me.View attachment 21196
View attachment 21198

 

[Ward 57]

That looks VERY dangerous. First put at least a 2X2' square of at least 1/2 " plywood under each jack you can't trust bare soil. Next the positioning of the jack on a smooth surface is just asking for trouble. Any nudge of the body could cause it to slide off the jack and then disaster.
For the front, I place them under the 'U' shaped cross member and against the bumper bracket. For the rear I place them under the rear spring bushing.
Two reasons, they are round parts and can settle into the saddle of the head of the jack, and second there is no way they could slide. Then vigorously try to wiggle the car before removing your lifting jack to settle everything. Same for the other end and again when sitting on all 4 jacks. When doing any work you are going to jostle the whole car and you need it as stable as possible. When using a 4 point shop lift is a different story.

 

[paul5456]

For the rear, I always put the jacks under the rear axle, as far out as they will go. In the front, under the frame right near the front. And yes, never put jacks on dirt - use a board or something to stabilize the bottom of the jacks.

 

[knuckle47]

Thanks guys. My goal is to remove the rear leaf springs and in the front, go down to the spindles. I will be placing these Jack stands on the plywood squares ….actually I’ve done that before but, why I forgot…age? So, what is the recommendation on the rear if I need to drop the leaf spring?

Ps…. These are 6 ton jacks and the top does “nest” the flat frame of the car within the top of the Jack stand. In case that helps.

I also have no clue what these pictures always go in sideways…

 

[Ward 57]

View attachment 21201Thanks guys. My goal is to remove the rear leaf springs and in the front, go down to the spindles. I will be placing these Jack stands on the plywood squares ….actually I’ve done that before but, why I forgot…age? So, what is the recommendation on the rear if I need to drop the leaf spring?

Ps…. These are 6 ton jacks and the top does “nest” the flat frame of the car within the top of the Jack stand. In case that helps.

I also have no clue what these pictures always go in sideways…

OK then I would go to the rear corners of the frame. I did that once in my 20s young & dumb when I had my springs re-arched and pulled them out myself.

 

[knuckle47]

So Ward, are you saying this is going to be more than I think it is? I did it once on my 1974 FJ40 Land Cruiser. But I was also 21

 

[Ward 57]

So Ward, are you saying this is going to be more than I think it is? I did it once on my 1974 FJ40 Land Cruiser. But I was also 21

It's basically straight forward. Just heavier materials. I did so many things to bring it back in my 20s when still a bachelor that I look back and think to myself that I know I did that but don't remember how. If I did it then just learning you can do it now. Just have a torch and a BFH handy as those 'U' bolt shackles may have to be destroyed to remove and just plan on having new ones and bushings on hand when putting it back together.

 

[knuckle47]

Got it…. What clued me in is that when I jacked up the front…. I was just about under the side door mirror so the front went up but the rear raised up just enough to hang a little. The rear springs looked like wet paint stirrer sticks, very weak and they are heavily scaled. It would appear that just from viewing their flex, they had nothing left other than to act as a spacer for the axle. Not on my agenda but I also realize why the spinners for the rear are off. With the fender skirts on, the spinners are in the trunk because the rear sags so much. If there is any plan to run this car this summer, I don’t have much choice…the rest looks pretty decent …so

 

[Ward 57]

Got it…. What clued me in is that when I jacked up the front…. I was just about under the side door mirror so the front went up but the rear raised up just enough to hang a little. The rear springs looked like wet paint stirrer sticks, very weak and they are heavily scaled. It would appear that just from viewing their flex, they had nothing left other than to act as a spacer for the axle. Not on my agenda but I also realize why the spinners for the rear are off. With the fender skirts on, the spinners are in the trunk because the rear sags so much. If there is any plan to run this car this summer, I don’t have much choice…the rest looks pretty decent …so

If the springs are in that bad of shape, look at new + bushings etc.. I did that work when it was only 25ys old but is holding to this date. Plus you will eliminate any side to side movement and keeping the wheel stuff from hitting the fender skirt.

 

[knuckle47]

Good plan … I was looking at new ones. Prices I have seen so far are $325.00 to $545.00. Then I’ll need the other hardware and shackles. But why not, I may have already put $6000.00 into this car…and I’m doing the work on my own

Do you have a manufacture preference…you may want to pm me

 

[CSPIDY]

if you are not going to support the rear end of the at the rear axle
so you can remove the rear springs
you should have 3 sets of jack stands
Because it’s a convertible the car will flex at the aft side of the door jamb
Support the car behind the rear springs
then a set under the frame in front of the springs
and a set at the front of the car
it is very tedious but take your time and make sure the load at the 4 rear jack stands is equal

If you only use 2 sets of stands
don’t open the doors

 

[knuckle47]

@CSPIDY Thank you for that suggestion. I do have 6 stands and I was thinking about the flex but maybe not seriously enough to insure it won’t be an issue. The 3rd set of Jack stands are lighter weight but even at 2 ton I’m sure it’s not a problem.

This morning I am cutting up a few pieces of weight distributing plywood.

Would you believe there is a preferred sequence of lift… middle , front, rear or something like left side, right side?

 

[Frankie the Fink]

That looks VERY dangerous. First put at least a 2X2' square of at least 1/2 " plywood under each jack you can't trust bare soil. Next the positioning of the jack on a smooth surface is just asking for trouble. Any nudge of the body could cause it to slide off the jack and then disaster.
For the front, I place them under the 'U' shaped cross member and against the bumper bracket. For the rear I place them under the rear spring bushing.
Two reasons, they are round parts and can settle into the saddle of the head of the jack, and second there is no way they could slide. Then vigorously try to wiggle the car before removing your lifting jack to settle everything. Same for the other end and again when sitting on all 4 jacks. When doing any work you are going to jostle the whole car and you need it as stable as possible. When using a 4 point shop lift is a different story.

Amen - get some of the plywood as suggested, those jack legs can sink a couple of inches or more and suddenly you've got an unstable situation; especially when doing "heavy" work like R&Ring leaf springs, you could be exerting some serious force while doing the job. Where possible I also leave my floor jacks locked in a lifting position as a secondary safety measure when it won't interfere with the job.

And yes, when jacking up older cars; parituclarly convertibles you do NOT want to get the frame in a twist. I have two floor jacks and alternate lifting each sie up at the front, (with the rear wheels properly chocked), then position the jack stands there and then do the same at the rear on each side.

 

[rponfick]

Good plan … I was looking at new ones. Prices I have seen so far are $325.00 to $545.00. Then I’ll need the other hardware and shackles. But why not, I may have already put $6000.00 into this car…and I’m doing the work on my own

Do you have a manufacture preference…you may want to pm me

You might Google General Spring. I notice they have springs for 56-57 birds, SKU 42-211, for 139.99, with front bushings installed. I think most of the Bird suppliers may get their springs from this manufacturer.

 

[CSPIDY]

@CSPIDY
Would you believe there is a preferred sequence of lift… middle , front, rear or something like left side, right side?

I jack front then rear
you can alternate to get it higher as you go
Keep an eye on the door jamb
As long as you are raising the car at the engine cross beam and rear pumpkin
You won’t hurt anything

 

[knuckle47]

Ok guys, a great plan… but, you know all good plans have a flaw. As I loaded the plywood from Lowe’s into my pickup I’d gotten a giant splinter in my palm. Hahaha

I was able to place the Jack stands as suggested and things FEEL secure but there is no way I am crawling under this car. I don’t feel comfortable so I will do brakes, bearings and tires while it’s up on the stands. The springs will have to wait until my other plans are complete and that will include a 4 post lift.

I’ve noticed that the frame really seems stiff enough to hold the car at different Jacking angles. I think @Frankie the Fink has a good plan lifting each side minimizing twisting that seems unavoidable doing it the way I just did. I used 6 jack stands with the rear under the axle

 

[Frankie the Fink]

I don't blame you - before I got my 4 post lift I used to use Race Ramps and boy they sure made me feel safe underneath the car, also with the rear wheel "cribs" you can get some real working height.
I use them on my 2002 Thunderbird too:

Service, Loading and Display Car and Auto Ramps | Race Ramps

Join countless other car lovers and make your life easier with our quality auto ramps - made in the USA. Our award-winning designs are used by professionals and enthusiasts across the globe.

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[Ward 57]

Well live & learn, I only have 2 sets but have never had a problem before and I do use my floor jack in place as a safety B/U. The frame is pretty stiff with it's X member but the last time I was under there the drivers door was binding. Never happened before. Only when letting it down to remove the jacks I discovered I had one, one tooth lower than it's twin. Twisted just enough to affect the door.

 

[Ward 57]

Ok guys, a great plan… but, you know all good plans have a flaw. As I loaded the plywood from Lowe’s into my pickup I’d gotten a giant splinter in my palm. Hahaha

I was able to place the Jack stands as suggested and things FEEL secure but there is no way I am crawling under this car. I don’t feel comfortable so I will do brakes, bearings and tires while it’s up on the stands. The springs will have to wait until my other plans are complete and that will include a 4 post lift.

I’ve noticed that the frame really seems stiff enough to hold the car at different Jacking angles. I think @Frankie the Fink has a good plan lifting each side minimizing twisting that seems unavoidable doing it the way I just did. I used 6 jack stands with the rear under the axleView attachment 21216View attachment 21217View attachment 21218View attachment 21219

Looks pretty safe to me.