1956 gas tank fitment question

[MarkGry]

Im chasing some fuel starving issues on my new to me restored '56. I pulled the tank to work through rear to front chasing the problem down. One question is the trunk access hole doesn't line up to the tank fuel sender port. Is this normal? The tank itself has some rust on inside top of the tank plus had some grey loose metalic trash shifting around on the bottom. I vacuumed the loose stuff out but banging the tank yields more loose debris. I'm about to pull the trigger to buy a new one but then I question the sender to access hole alignment. he Tbird supplier sources pictures don't look like mine. Could my tank be the actual 66yo tank?
Also, who do the experts recommend i buy from?

Here's a pic of the tank.

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[zeroroadkill]

I bought a new steel tank, would have preferred a stainless but it wasn’t available. Might have been Casco or Concours id have to look but the sender placement was right on. The filler neck was a bit off but with some persuasion, I was able to get it in and the rubber gasket around it.

 

[Ward 57]

Im chasing some fuel starving issues on my new to me restored '56. I pulled the tank to work through rear to front chasing the problem down. One question is the trunk access hole doesn't line up to the tank fuel sender port. Is this normal? The tank itself has some rust on inside top of the tank plus had some grey loose metalic trash shifting around on the bottom. I vacuumed the loose stuff out but banging the tank yields more loose debris. I'm about to pull the trigger to buy a new one but then I question the sender to access hole alignment. he Tbird supplier sources pictures don't look like mine. Could my tank be the actual 66yo tank?
Also, who do the experts recommend i buy from?

Here's a pic of the tank.

Picture didn't post but if you have it out I'd just go ahead and replace it at Appox $270. I have no idea on the cost of cleaning and sealing by a Pro, but I'd reserve that for an irreplaceable one off tank.

 

[MarkGry]

Here's tank and pics of internal.

 

[MarkGry]

I'll probably replace but fuel pickup line has a rusted area at the wall joint too.that rusted part of fuel pickup to wall is also suspect to me.

 

[Ward 57]

I agree. Replace everything up to the final connection to the fuel rail to the pump. You don't want to have to go back to that again.
If you have ever replaced a sink drain, you know once you disturb any connection it runs down the line.

 

[dmsfrr]

. . . One question is the trunk access hole doesn't line up to the tank fuel sender port. Is this normal? .... I'm about to pull the trigger to buy a new one but then I question the sender to access hole alignment. he Tbird supplier sources pictures don't look like mine. Could my tank be the actual 66yo tank?
Also, who do the experts recommend i buy from?

Here's a pic of the tank.

The photo you posted looks like a '55 tank, not a '56. The hole for the tank sensor in a '56 tank is slightly farther back.

 

[doug7740]

Im chasing some fuel starving issues on my new to me restored '56. I pulled the tank to work through rear to front chasing the problem down. One question is the trunk access hole doesn't line up to the tank fuel sender port. Is this normal? The tank itself has some rust on inside top of the tank plus had some grey loose metalic trash shifting around on the bottom. I vacuumed the loose stuff out but banging the tank yields more loose debris. I'm about to pull the trigger to buy a new one but then I question the sender to access hole alignment. he Tbird supplier sources pictures don't look like mine. Could my tank be the actual 66yo tank?
Also, who do the experts recommend i buy from?

Here's a pic of the tank.

As others have already told you the reason the sender doesn't line up with access hole in the trunk is because you have a 1955 fuel tank in your 1956 Thunderbird.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[MarkGry]

AAAHHHH! I see now that it's a 55. I was looking at my hardcopy catalogs. My bad. The CASCO website had the picture. I'll give them a call about availability to purchase one. Next worry bead is the fuel pump might be toast from possible pickup of tank junk. Ack!! Yeah, I've read the threads about the pumps.

Baby Bird steps... ?

Thank you all!

 

[Ward 57]

AAAHHHH! I see now that it's a 55. I was looking at my hardcopy catalogs. My bad. The CASCO website had the picture. I'll give them a call about availability to purchase one. Next worry bead is the fuel pump might be toast from possible pickup of tank junk. Ack!! Yeah, I've read the threads about the pumps.

Baby Bird steps... ?

Thank you all!

What do you find in the filter bowl? If you think the pump may be compromised just send it out to be rebuilt and don't dare buy a replacement. The rebuild components are designed to tolerate ethanol.

 

[MarkGry]

I've seen a few flecks of the stuff in the bowl.? I'll cross that bridge after I complete new tank install and fuel line check out.

Thanks again.

 

[Ward 57]

I've seen a few flecks of the stuff in the bowl.? I'll cross that bridge after I complete new tank install and fuel line check out.

Thanks again.

You should be good if you replace the tank. The filter bowl can tell you a lot. There may be another screen on the carb inlet so check that after the other crud is cleaned out.

 

[doug7740]

Your car has two "filters" which attempt to remove debris from your fuel before it enters into your carburetor. The first filter is the one in the glass bowl located in front and to the side of your engine. It is located in the fuel line as it makes its way from the fuel pump to the carburetor. The second "filter" is the one that is most often overlooked and forgotten. If you have changed your fuel filter recently, yet your car still suffers from poor acceleration, your problem may be a clogged fuel screen. This screen is your fuel systems second filter. It is located behind the brass fitting which connects your fuel line to the carburetor. With the advance of time, as well as the fact that our cars are not used on a frequent basis, the gas in our gas tanks is prone to sediment build-up. This "sludge" will clog your fuel filters. That is what they are there for, to protect your carburetor.

To clean your fuel screen, you first have to remove the fuel line from the brass fitting. On 1955 and 1956 Thunderbirds your fuel line should go to the back of your carburetor. Once your fuel line has been removed, unscrew the brass fitting from the body of the carburetor. There will be a gasket attached to the brass fitting. This gasket must be reinstalled behind the brass fitting or your car will be leaking gas. Inside the brass fitting will be a wire screen. This is your fuel screen. You can tap it out of the brass housing. Inspect the screen for sediment buildup. Your screen can be cleaned with carburetor cleaner. If your screen is bent or missing, you will need to order a replacement screen. Once your screen has been cleaned or replaced, reinstall the fuel screen back inside the brass housing. Reattach the brass housing to your carburetor. Do not forget to reinstall the gasket. Once you have installed the brass housing reconnect your fuel line. If your screen was clogged you should notice a definite improvement in your car's performance.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[lichau]

I bought a new steel tank, would have preferred a stainless but it wasn’t available. Might have been Casco or Concours id have to look but the sender placement was right on. The filler neck was a bit off but with some persuasion, I was able to get it in and the rubber gasket around it.

Ditto the filler neck issue with the replacement tanks. I have owned my '56 since 1972; cleaned out the tank a couple times, sealed it, etc. Debris was causing fuel flow issues, finally decided "enough" and bought a replacement. The filler neck is about an inch or so shorter than the original. Why? I have no idea. It would seem that if you are going to replicate the rest of the tank--which fits perfectly, you would get the filler neck dimension correct. At one point, I was about to cut off the original filler neck and weld it to the new one. But, after some serious cranking and some not so nice words, I managed to get it in, OK. The filler neck grommet JUST fits. I swear there is about 1/16" clearance for the gas cap. But, it works.
I think I bought it from Casco. They said they had sold hundreds, never had a complaint. Maybe my car is different? Or maybe the other owners/mechanics are just better mechanics than I am.

 

[MarkGry]

Your car has two "filters" which attempt to remove debris from your fuel before it enters into your carburetor. The first filter is the one in the glass bowl located in front and to the side of your engine. It is located in the fuel line as it makes its way from the fuel pump to the carburetor. The second "filter" is the one that is most often overlooked and forgotten. If you have changed your fuel filter recently, yet your car still suffers from poor acceleration, your problem may be a clogged fuel screen. This screen is your fuel systems second filter. It is located behind the brass fitting which connects your fuel line to the carburetor. With the advance of time, as well as the fact that our cars are not used on a frequent basis, the gas in our gas tanks is prone to sediment build-up. This "sludge" will clog your fuel filters. That is what they are there for, to protect your carburetor.

To clean your fuel screen, you first have to remove the fuel line from the brass fitting. On 1955 and 1956 Thunderbirds your fuel line should go to the back of your carburetor. Once your fuel line has been removed, unscrew the brass fitting from the body of the carburetor. There will be a gasket attached to the brass fitting. This gasket must be reinstalled behind the brass fitting or your car will be leaking gas. Inside the brass fitting will be a wire screen. This is your fuel screen. You can tap it out of the brass housing. Inspect the screen for sediment buildup. Your screen can be cleaned with carburetor cleaner. If your screen is bent or missing, you will need to order a replacement screen. Once your screen has been cleaned or replaced, reinstall the fuel screen back inside the brass housing. Reattach the brass housing to your carburetor. Do not forget to reinstall the gasket. Once you have installed the brass housing reconnect your fuel line. If your screen was clogged you should notice a definite improvement in your car's performance.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

View attachment 26765

View attachment 26766

Thanks, I checked that behind the carb screen today and it's clean and in good shape. Yea!

The lines from tank to pump are in good shape too. Yea!

The bad is the fuel pump is of the Chinese variety. It has all the characteristics. The better news is I do have another carb that came with the car and it DOES NOT have the suspect characteristics. Yea! Shipping it to Arthur Gould later this week or early next.

 

[rspon]

Just replaced my tank with one from CASCO and it fits perfectly....including the position of the sending unit. I also replaced the line from the tank to the center of the car. Think the tank I replaced might have been the original because I couldn't believe the pile of rust I discovered in the bottom....amazing the car would even run. (This car is new to me and one by one, I'm working my way back to reliability!!) BTW, I cut the fuel line into two pieces to get it across the frame. Double flared the cut and connected with a flare union instead of going the "rubber" fuel line route!!

 

[dmsfrr]

When replacing a fuel tank or trying to diagnose a faulty fuel level reading make sure the tank sensor is electrically grounded to the tank and the fuel tank is well grounded to the body of the car.
You may need to add a new ground wire from the sensor to the body... because the tank is mounted to the car with various cushions to help prevent vibration wear damage.

 

[lichau]

When replacing a fuel tank or trying to diagnose a faulty fuel level reading make sure the tank sensor is electrically grounded to the tank and the fuel tank is well grounded to the body of the car.
You may need to add a new ground wire from the sensor to the body... because the tank is mounted to the car with various cushions to help prevent vibration wear damage.

Good advice. Will take a look at my installation. Tank may not be well connected to frame. Fuel gauge has always been a bit suspect, probably still will be. In those days (I have had this vehicle since 1972+/-) you learned what the gauge "meant". Didn't expect it to be all that accurate.
I loved the early VW bugs--with no fuel gauge, just a "reserve" tank. When you had to switch to the reserve, you knew you had a gallon--good for 30-40 miles to find gas. The problem was forgetting to turn the reserve lever back after a fill up.
I am an engineer--I love simplicity. An old saying: "everything should be kept as simple as possible. Just not simpler than possible."