1956 brake upgrade | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models
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1956 brake upgrade

  • Thread starter Thread starter kerry a berg
  • Start date Start date
I’m about to upgrade my ‘55 with their bracket and booster. I already bought a Wilwood M/C, proportional valve and front disc brakes. Unfortunately the way the valve mounts with the M/C on the firewall, the outputs on the bottom of the valve are right on top of the clutch mechanism and you can’t plumb it. I contacted ABS and they said they would sell me the offset bracket and booster alone to mount the components I already paid over $500 for! They saved my bacon! I haven’t received their quote for the bracket/booster or purchased and installed for that matter but I’m hopeful it will work out. I’ll post results after installation. One note, the battery has to be relocated in my ‘55 but I planned on doing that anyway.
 
I’m about to upgrade my ‘55 with their bracket and booster. I already bought a Wilwood M/C, proportional valve and front disc brakes. Unfortunately the way the valve mounts with the M/C on the firewall, the outputs on the bottom of the valve are right on top of the clutch mechanism and you can’t plumb it. I contacted ABS and they said they would sell me the offset bracket and booster alone to mount the components I already paid over $500 for! They saved my bacon! I haven’t received their quote for the bracket/booster or purchased and installed for that matter but I’m hopeful it will work out. I’ll post results after installation. One note, the battery has to be relocated in my ‘55 but I planned on doing that anyway.
Good luck with your upgrade. I’ve tried everything up to the full blown upgrade to a full power brake system. This is my next and hopefully final step to achieve braking performance that I am happy with. I’ve reached out to ABS and hopeful this will be the solution. I’ll keep you informed.
 
I purchased the ABS booster which included the Wilwood master cylinder and offset bracket. I have studied all install information that I could find and will be installing in the next three weeks. It looks pretty straightforward. My first step is relocating the battery to the trunk. I have all parts now and hoping for a successful install. Two things I recently discovered and verified through Wilwood is 1) to install a 10 PSI pressure valve on rear brake line near the master cylinder (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-13784-Red-10-PSI-Residual-Pressure-Valve-with-Fittings), if you’re keeping rear drum with front discs. 2) install a 150/200 amp circuit breaker near battery in trunk on positive battery cable. Good luck and I’ll let you know how all goes.
 
I purchased the ABS booster which included the Wilwood master cylinder and offset bracket. I have studied all install information that I could find and will be installing in the next three weeks. It looks pretty straightforward. My first step is relocating the battery to the trunk. I have all parts now and hoping for a successful install. Two things I recently discovered and verified through Wilwood is 1) to install a 10 PSI pressure valve on rear brake line near the master cylinder (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-260-13784-Red-10-PSI-Residual-Pressure-Valve-with-Fittings), if you’re keeping rear drum with front discs. 2) install a 150/200 amp circuit breaker near battery in trunk on positive battery cable. Good luck and I’ll let you know how all goes.

I have measured the amp draw when I start my car and it runs anywhere from 175 to 200.
 
I bought the 200 amp circuit breaker and have #2 battery cables. Should I upgrade those to 00 or am I okay with #2? I have about a 10 foot run with positive and 4 foot run with negative.
 
Depends on what is meant by #2 battery cables. My chart suggests for 10 feet at 200 amp you need 2/0 gauge cables. That gives a 3% voltage drop at 200 amps.
 
Depends on what is meant by #2 battery cables. My chart suggests for 10 feet at 200 amp you need 2/0 gauge cables. That gives a 3% voltage drop at 200 amps.
I meant 2 AWG wire. In researching wire gauge chart I found they were recommending 1/0 battery cable
Depends on what is meant by #2 battery cables. My chart suggests for 10 feet at 200 amp you need 2/0 gauge cables. That gives a 3% voltage drop at 200 amps.
Thank You Tom for your prompt response. I should have originally stated 2/0 battery cable size. Just learning (@75) the correct terminology in wire size. I did additional research and I found numerous recommendations to use 1/0 battery cable for a 10’ positive run and a 10’ negative run, assuming I run a negative cable from the battery to the engine block. I found several suggestions recommending that. Not sure if it’s overkill.
 
The 1/0 should be plenty. It keeps the voltage drop over 20 feet @200 amps about 2.4%. A 2/0 is 2.0%. Not sure it's worth the slight difference.
 
In looking back at my posts, it dawned on me that I failed to mention that the wire upgrade, circuit breaker, etc., was regarding the powergen alternator (#82155-2) that I plan on installing this week. The ABS brake booster and M/C next week. Finally dumping the generator and gutting the voltage regulator.
 
In looking back at my posts, it dawned on me that I failed to mention that the wire upgrade, circuit breaker, etc., was regarding the powergen alternator (#82155-2) that I plan on installing this week. The ABS brake booster and M/C next week. Finally dumping the generator and gutting the voltage regulator.

My comment on the circuit breaker and the amp draw was a concern that a 200-amp breaker might not be large enough if you ever have to crank the car for very long. Sounds like you already have it so might as well use it and see how it works out.
 
My comment on the circuit breaker and the amp draw was a concern that a 200-amp breaker might not be large enough if you ever have to crank the car for very long. Sounds like you already have it so might as well use it and see how it works out.
I can always sent the 200 amp breaker back and get a different one. What would you recommend?
 
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