1955 Gauges 12 volt to 6 volt reducer | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1955 Gauges 12 volt to 6 volt reducer

  • Thread starter Thread starter pdmcbee42
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pdmcbee42

55 thunderbird
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Thunderbird Year
1955
What is the best 12 volt to 6 volt guarge reducer do you recommend for 55 tbird

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Ford switched to 12V gauges in '56 but then reverted to 6V gauges with a regulator from '57 forward. On a '55 that's been converted to 12V simplest solution is to insert an instrument regulator for a '57 in line with the supply to the gauges. The usual parts suppliers (Thunderbird HQ, Larry's, etc.) have it, part #10804. Look at the '57 wiring to see how to connect it if you have questions about that. Be sure the case is grounded.
 
What is the best 12 volt to 6 volt guarge reducer do you recommend for 55 tbird
You do not need to change any switches or gauges. The fuel and temperature gauges will work on 6 or 12 V and are not polarity sensitive. If the 6 volt gauges do not work when the 12 volt conversion is made install a 10 ohm 10 watt wire wound resistor between the gauges and the power supply to gauges. If the gauges still do not work it may be necessary to replace the gauges and the sending units with 1956 12 volt units.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
I had 12v sending units the fuel gauge was always on E and the temp gauge was always on H pegged out. Switched back to 6v sending units and now the gauges work but not accurate. I'm in the process of a rewire and going to incorporate the reducer hope that solves the gauge problem on my 55. Also the car has been changed to 12v neg ground.
 
I used the 57 reducer in my 54 Ford ans it works very well. Actually, Ford used the reducer for quite a few years from 57 and up so you can use any of the years, Instrument Voltage Regulator I belive it's called. The main difference over the years is the wire connection.
 
I have a article on how to calibrate the fuel and temp gauges. going by the instructions the fuel is fine but the temp moves off hot side about 1/4 then the needle just falls back to the hot side like something comes unhitched inside. These are out of the cluster and connected to a 1.5v c cell battery. Any clues?
 
I have a article on how to calibrate the fuel and temp gauges. going by the instructions the fuel is fine but the temp moves off hot side about 1/4 then the needle just falls back to the hot side like something comes unhitched inside. These are out of the cluster and connected to a 1.5v c cell battery. Any clues?
Problem solved I opened up the gauge and low and behold the spring was too loose I just adjusted the small gear on the back and all is fine.
 
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