1955 fuel pump replacement

J

Jeff55

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Jul 11, 2021
Thunderbird Year
1955
I have my rebuilt fuel pump from CASCO.
I read the post from @zeroroadkill about fuel pump installation. I get the TDC part.

I still have a couple questions.

1) Will I have to drain the gas tank in order to disconnect the lines before removing the fuel pump?
2) What sealer do I apply to both sides of the gasket when installing it? (brand name would be good.)

Any other advise?

Thanks, Jeff
 
I have my rebuilt fuel pump from CASCO.
I read the post from @zeroroadkill about fuel pump installation. I get the TDC part.

I still have a couple questions.

1) Will I have to drain the gas tank in order to disconnect the lines before removing the fuel pump?
2) What sealer do I apply to both sides of the gasket when installing it? (brand name would be good.)

Any other advise?

Thanks, Jeff
You might get a couple of drips from the fuel line but it is not under pressure so no worries. No gasket sealer is needed on the gasket.
 
I have my rebuilt fuel pump from CASCO.
I read the post from @zeroroadkill about fuel pump installation. I get the TDC part.

I still have a couple questions.

1) Will I have to drain the gas tank in order to disconnect the lines before removing the fuel pump?
2) What sealer do I apply to both sides of the gasket when installing it? (brand name would be good.)

Any other advise?

Thanks, Jeff
No you don't have to drain the tank. If you have a golf tee you can stick in the in the hose (if it fits) but just lifting the flex hose up will prevent any loss of gas.

No sealer is required on the gasket. I changed a few pumps and never used a sealer and never had a leak

When installing the pump, keep the arm in the down position while lining it up to the bolts
 
I have my rebuilt fuel pump from CASCO.
I read the post from @zeroroadkill about fuel pump installation. I get the TDC part.

I still have a couple questions.

1) Will I have to drain the gas tank in order to disconnect the lines before removing the fuel pump?
2) What sealer do I apply to both sides of the gasket when installing it? (brand name would be good.)

Any other advise?

Thanks, Jeff
No, no need to drain the tank. Actually the fuel pump gasket doesn’t need anything, dry is ok.
 
I have my rebuilt fuel pump from CASCO.
I read the post from @zeroroadkill about fuel pump installation. I get the TDC part.

I still have a couple questions.

1) Will I have to drain the gas tank in order to disconnect the lines before removing the fuel pump?
2) What sealer do I apply to both sides of the gasket when installing it? (brand name would be good.)

Any other advise?

Thanks, Jeff

Don't disagree with the other answers. I sometimes use a small amount of Permatex number 2 non-hardening gasket sealer on the pump side of mine to help keep it stuck in place while positioning the pump into position. As has been mentioned, angle the tip of the lever as far "down" as you can as you are sliding it into place to make sure the lever is going under the cam inside the front cover.
 
Before you remove the fuel pump make sure the engine is set to the cylinder 1 top dead center mark on the crank pulley. By doing this the eccentric cam that operates the fuel pump will be on the low side of the cam and the fuel pump will not have much pressure against the operating lever.

(See the attached eccentric cam pictures)

When you install the fuel pump, make sure the fuel pump operating lever is under the eccentric cam and put some assembly lube on the fuel pump operating lever.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird BlueFuel Pump Eccentric Cam (Cover Removed).jpg
Fuel Pump Eccentric Cam.jpg
 
All good advice - flat faced vice grips or even a Stanley wood gluing clamp can be used to gently pinch the rubber fuel tank ine closed. I do use sealant on the pump-to-block gasket but it is prob not necessary.
 
Never pinch a flexible fuel line or brake line. You can do internal damage that you can't see.

If you've ever cut a rubber brake line in half and looked at how small the actual opening is on the inside you'll never clamp one again. That's one reason if the rubber gets old and swells up it can block the opening, it's a small opening to being with.
 
I would t do it on a brake line either. It won’t bother a fuel line if gently used to stop a drip temporarily.
 
A fuel line on a carbureated car handles about 5-1/2 psi and are quite flexible and hardly equivalent to a brake line's rated pressure (which I didn't recommend clamping at all)...
 
A fuel line on a carbureated car handles about 5-1/2 psi and are quite flexible and hardly equivalent to a brake line's rated pressure (which I didn't recommend clamping at all)...
Paul5456 had the right idea. Plugging it is a much better idea. A few drops is all you will get But I wouldn't pinch ANY flexible line. It's not a garden hose.
 
If the crankshaft is at TDC could the eccentric be either high or low? Doesn't the cam turn one revolution for every two revolutions of crankshaft?
 
If the crankshaft is at TDC could the eccentric be either high or low? Doesn't the cam turn one revolution for every two revolutions of crankshaft?
I think it's just the opposite. One revolution for the intake and one for the exhaust. The distributor does turn once every two revolutions. I made that mistake when I replaced my plug wires. I set the pointer on the pully at the TDC mark thinking it was TDC. It turned out it was the TDC on the exhaust cycle. I had pulled the old wires off and installed the new ones. Wouldn't start. Had it towed to my shop and it turns out I was 180 Deg off.
 
If the crankshaft is at TDC could the eccentric be either high or low? Doesn't the cam turn one revolution for every two revolutions of crankshaft?
You are correct - that's why you can be on the exhaust cycle instead of the intake cycle at TDC
 
If the crankshaft is at TDC could the eccentric be either high or low? Doesn't the cam turn one revolution for every two revolutions of crankshaft?
If the engine is set to the cylinder #1 top dead center mark on the crank pulley, the eccentric cam will be on the low side.

https://www.Thunderbirdforum.com/**********/locating-top-dead-center/

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird blue.
 
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After a little tial and error I looked at it with a borescope, determined what I was trying to do wrong, then attached it without anymore trouble.
The filter bowl filled to the top and it started and ran fine!
 
After a little tial and error I looked at it with a borescope, determined what I was trying to do wrong, then attached it without anymore trouble.
The filter bowl filled to the top and it started and ran fine!
Yup same here, I was putting it at too much of a downward angle LOL! Interesting your filter bowl fills to the top, mine is about 2/3rds.
 
Has anyone tried to add the electric fuel pump in series with the manual pump? If the manual pump fails, will the electric pump push fuel through the manual pump (assuming not a gasket failure)?
 
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