1955 daily driver

[Levi]

I'm 33 and getting ready to purchase my dream car, but want some advice from owners before I drop the dough.

I am not looking for a $40k+ trailer queen, but more of an under $20k survivor, or older restore. I want to make this car my daily driver. I'm 33, and I want to drive it 12 miles to and from work, to the gym, to church, run errands, etc. I'm not bent on keeping it original and the car I buy doesn't need matching numbers. I can live without AC, airbags, and all that other stuff that breaks. I want to learn to tinker on it, and do any upgrades and repairs myself. I'd like to convert the carb to fuel injection, and I'll want to upgrade to disk brakes. Also plan on radial tires, not the bias-ply. Any other necessary mods I should consider? I really like 55-56. I know the 56 had some improvements, but I hate that continental kit on the back! I'd really prefer a manual transmission as well.

Can I get a 56 with no continental kit?
What should I look for in the potential car?
What should I avoid?
How much should I pay?
Can it be done? Should it be done?
Should I consider a kit car or reproduction model? (already assembled and ready to drive)

Any adivice to input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[fordrodsteven]

Let's start with '55 vs '56. The cars are pretty much the same. Big difference is the '55 is 6V positive ground and the '56 is 12V negative ground. I see you said you also want to change from carburation to fuel injection. There isn't much out there (fuel injection wise) for the "Y" blocks. If I was looking using the requirements you have listed I would look for a "55 that has been converted to 12V and has a newer powerplant installed (possibly a 302?). Disc brake kits are readily available for either year of car from many sources. I have a friend in the local Bird club that has installed kits (in a few cars) from dropnstop in CA.
There are a few other differences between the '55 & 6 that you might want to consider and then you might try to find a '56. Again I would look for one with a more modern powerplant installed because of change over to F.I. The '56 has side vent doors to help alleviate the interior temperature (hot) that many '55 owners complained about. There are muffler shields you can buy to put on (both years) that would help a little with interior heat. If you want to hop up the engine a little to get more horsepower either year frame should be able to handle it.
There's more I could write but as you see I personally would look for a '55 (with the newer powerplant) in the $15 to 20K range. Many parts are available. As with anything it all comes down to how deep do you want to dig into your pockets. Most important thing to look for is any improperly executed rust repairs. I am sure that a 60+ year old car has had or still has rust!

 

[Mel56]

Levi,
My wife just purchased a 55. Pretty much original. It does have front disk brakes. She too was looking for a nice driver not a trailer queen. Drivetrain stock including the 6volt/positive ground. We picked this car up for under $20k. Currently, I'm having the automatic trans rebuilt and the carburetor rebuilt. Next will be to convert to a 12volt, negative ground system. Oh and yes, I will be switching the bias ply tires to radials. Then she can drive it. Just want it to be reliable and safe. Having a 6volt battery might be tough in the need of a jump start. Maybe down the road we will think of body/paint but, right now she's cool with just being a driver.

Good luck on your decision.

 

[tbird]

Do you have a local Thunderbird club? If so, I strongly suggest getting connected and letting the members help you with picking out a car.

 

[CSPIDY]

Rust should be your biggest concern, if you are in the north east you may have to go west of to find a good car for a good price. The Y blocks can be very dependable, not sure but you may be able to get a throttle body fuel injection system for a Yblock.

 

[John W.]

If you're going to be modifying the car, please buy a kit car or reproduction or even a Camaro.

 

[CSPIDY]

As long as you don’t hack up the body and frame the car can be returned to original if the next owner wishes to do that. If done right a Retromod can be worth more than all origianal.

 

[fordrodsteven]

As long as you don’t hack up the body and frame the car can be returned to original if the next owner wishes to do that. If done right a Retromod can be worth more than all origianal.

I agree. I have a friend who has modded a few Thunderbirds but he always makes sure the work can be reversed in case another owner may want to "go back original"
I have also seen where people have modified the frame by cutting off the front portion and then installing a mustang II style clip and a 5.0 engine. Just sayin' it would be a little tough to bring that back.
My car (originally 292 three speed) has been modified and now has a 302 automatic sitting in it. The original frame is very much intact. I have the brackets that go onto the frame for the engine side steadyrests. I can just remove the engine mount adapting hardware, put the brackets back on and pop an original type "Y" block right back in if I desire. I think that's the way to go!

 

[55birdman]

I’m in the midst of a restoration of a 55. The engine and trans (T5) are finished and ready to install once the bodywork is completed.
I’ve converted to 12v and added fuel injection from FiTech. I used a 57 intake manifold as the 55 “teapot” manifold will not accept the FiTech bolt pattern. Additionally I had to machine the throttle bores on the new manifold to match the larger FI butterflies.
Also went to an electronic distributor as the FI unit needs a distributor “pulse”.
Hope this helps.