1955 clutch removal

[OlleHi]

Hi,
I have a 1955 3 speed manual without o/d and have to change the clutch. Strange vibrations that I believe must be the clutch parts.
Anyway, what I have read in the workshop manual (the green one, you know which one I mean?) is that you change the clutch by loosing the trans and push i backwards. But, the transmission can't be pushed back so that the shaft comes free from the engine and bellhousing.
Very annoying! What I've read here today about the 57 is that the engine has to be pushed forward and the radiator removed as well.
Seems that I have done all work in vain, it would have been easier to remove the engine from the beginning and change the clutch, or am I wrong?
Why on earth is that not mentioned in the workshop manual? Is there a secret way to clear the trans and shaft from the engine and change the clutch?

Thanks for any reply.

Olle

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[74 Harley]

I am curious, what led you to believe that the vibration is from the clutch?

 

[OlleHi]

I am curious, what led you to believe that the vibration is from the clutch?

I have vibrations at around 1800-2000 rpm and above.
Doesn't matter if I am driving or just standing at my driveway, with the clutchpedal up or down.
A carshop changed the clutch a while ago when having the engine out. First I thought that I wouldn't care, but it is quite annoying when driving on the highway. It is not much, but annoying.
The carshop say they haven't done anything wrong (of course) and the dealer (in US) I bought the parts from are not interested to help out.
So I am thinking of removing the clutch parts and check the balance to see if they are the cause. I can't figure out what else it could be. The flywheel? In that case I remove that too.

If you have any ideas, let me know.

 

[74 Harley]

Did the flywheel get replaced?
What was the purpose of the engine removal?
You can also check the harmonic balancer, make sure the outer sleeve is not wobbling or the rubber isn't coming out.

 

[Tom Alpers]

I had a stick shift mustang with a vibration like that right around 2000 rpm. Turned out to be the exhaust pipe was touching the rear bumper. I bent the exhaust pipe down 1/8" and problem solved. Since you have the engine out for the prior work it's possible when they put it back in it isn't in exactly the same spot and as a result it caused the exhaust system to move a tiny bit and it's touching something.

 

[OlleHi]

Did the flywheel get replaced?
What was the purpose of the engine removal?
You can also check the harmonic balancer, make sure the outer sleeve is not wobbling or the rubber isn't coming out.

The flywheel was not replaced, and I don't think that it was polished (I don't know the correct english word, but you know what I mean?)
The body was removed for blasting and painting, and the engine was removec for some welding on the frame.
What is the harmonic balancer and where is it located on a 292 y-block? Sorry I am from Sweden, and I've never heard fo that before, but "balancer" sounds as if it could be something.

 

[74 Harley]

It's the big part behind the belt pulley on the crank shaft.

 

[OlleHi]

It's the big part behind the belt pulley on the crank shaft.

Thanks!
One last question: how do I know if it that one causing the vibrations? Can I remove the fan belt and feel it by hand? Like a wheel bearing?

 

[74 Harley]

I don't think you can feel much by hand, unless it's really bad. However you can start the car and let it idle and look for excessive vibration and/or movement. You can also remove the belts and pulley (if I remember correctly some may have pulley grooves in the outer ring) and you can inspect the rubber in between the two layers.

 

[OlleHi]

Thanks Harley for your replies, I'll will check that.

But I am still curious about the clutch removal, so if anyone knows the proper way to do it, please let me know.
But for now I give up and push the gearbox back in place.

 

[74 Harley]

I have not pulled the transmission out of a baby bird myself, however I know it can be done. I believe that you have to rotate it on its side. Not positive. Maybe @doug7740 can chime in. He is incredibly well versed with these cars.

 

[Hilde]

I recently removed my '55 transmission to repair the leaks (gaskets and seals) and check it for whatever could cause the vibrations I was feeling (similar to yours). It's quite difficult, but it can be done. You have to remove the drive shaft, the gear shifter linkage rods and the gear shifter, the speedometer cable and the 90-degree gear box for the cable, the clutch linkage, and lastly, the starter. After you remove the rear mount from the transmission and the frame, and remove the bolts attaching the transmission to the clutch housing, it should slide rearward enough to remove the clutch housing and the clutch. You will have to jiggle it around a bit, but it will go rearward. After the clutch is removed you can slide the transmission forward (very slowly and very, very carefully), drop it down in the front, and remove it. I stress again, do it carefully. It's quite heavy and could drop out (on your head or foot). When I took it apart, I found the input shaft bearing was worn badly. I replaced the bearing, and after I finally got the car running again, the vibration was not there. Good luck, Hilde

 

[OlleHi]

I recently removed my '55 transmission to repair the leaks (gaskets and seals) and check it for whatever could cause the vibrations I was feeling (similar to yours). It's quite difficult, but it can be done. You have to remove the drive shaft, the gear shifter linkage rods and the gear shifter, the speedometer cable and the 90-degree gear box for the cable, the clutch linkage, and lastly, the starter. After you remove the rear mount from the transmission and the frame, and remove the bolts attaching the transmission to the clutch housing, it should slide rearward enough to remove the clutch housing and the clutch. You will have to jiggle it around a bit, but it will go rearward. After the clutch is removed you can slide the transmission forward (very slowly and very, very carefully), drop it down in the front, and remove it. I stress again, do it carefully. It's quite heavy and could drop out (on your head or foot). When I took it apart, I found the input shaft bearing was worn badly. I replaced the bearing, and after I finally got the car running again, the vibration was not there. Good luck, Hilde

Thanks! I was afraid to rmove the clutch, because I thought that I might not be able to put a new one back in and use a center tool becaue the gearbox shaft was in the way.
But could it be the shaft bearing if I have vibrations even if I have the clutch pedal down or up? I have vibrations in both cases. If i press the pedal the shaft bearing is released, isn't it?
That is why I believe that the vibrations is from the clutch.

 

[Hilde]

What happened on my '55 was the bad input bearing made the shaft wobble, which wore down the pilot bearing at the flywheel (which I also replaced). So, even when idling in neutral, there was vibration. By the way, I forgot to mention that you also need to disconnect the two wires to the back-up light switch before removing the transmission. Again, be very careful when sliding the transmission forward after removing the clutch as most of the weight is in the front of the transmission, and when it reaches just a hair past the point where the front wants to drop, it drops fast. Suddenly you have all the weight of it. Argh! Good luck, Hilde.

 

[sylvurhfox]

I just replaced my clutch disc and pressure plate. I have the overdrive trans. I was able to get the trans back far enough to remove the clutch and pressure plate. I had to remove the bottom 2 bolts holding the flywheel housing and loosen the top 2 bolts in order to remove the flywheel. I had the flywheel surfaced and replace the pilot bearing. I installed the flywheel and torqued the 6 mounting bolts. I pushed the pressure plate back in place and installed 2 bolts. I rolled the engine around and slid the clutch disc in place and installed 2 more bolts holding the pressure plate. I rolled the engine again and installed the remaining 2 bolts for the pressure plate. I installed the release bearing on the clutch lever and pushed the trans forward. I made alignment studs and pulled the trans back forward slowly making sure the trans was going in straight. I had difficulty getting the release bearing to slide all the way onto the front of the trans but after lots of frustration it finally went in place. I pulled the trans forward until the trans input shaft went into the clutch disc. I put the trans in gear and put the front of the driveline back into the trans output. I turned the driveline and lined up the clutch disc and slowly finished pulling the trans all the way in place. After tightening the trans mounting bolts and the flywheel housing bolts, I torqued the pressure plate mounting bolts by rolling the engine around. This was really time consuming but I didn't want to pull the motor to replace the clutch. I hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[Hilde]

When I replaced my clutch, after I had slid the transmission back, I removed all the bolts holding the housing (I had already removed the starter) and rotated the housing (toward the driver's side), and it came out all the way (with a little jiggling). I then had clear access to the clutch, the flywheel (which I had resurfaced), and the pilot bearing (which I replaced with a sealed ball bearing instead of a bushing. Good luck, Hilde.