1955 Battery just caught fire on Sunday drive | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1955 Battery just caught fire on Sunday drive

  • Thread starter Thread starter photoguy
  • Start date Start date
photoguy

photoguy

Reaction score
7
Thunderbird Year
1955
Afternoon.

Here’s my crappy story.
1.Just went on drive to grab donuts, returned to car didn’t want to start, seemed flooded.
2. Waited a couple minutes, still wouldn’t start.
3. Waited again, nothing this time, no sound when turned key
4. Opened hood, jiggled a few wires, and battery cables. Then it started right away.
5. After 5 minutes of driving smoke coming from hood, pulled over immediately and opened hood, battery was on fire. Called 911, fire dept arrived quickly, fire stopped just as they arrived. They pulled the cables for me. So sitting on side of the road waiting for tow driver.

I did just install a new cap and ignition coil. Could the ignition coil be the culprit?

Thanks!

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Sorry to hear this! :-( This is a good time to remind everyone to have an auto fire extinguisher.

Also, make sure you have one in your kitchen at home!
 
Last edited:
Afternoon.

Here’s my crappy story.
1.Just went on drive to grab donuts, returned to car didn’t want to start, seemed flooded.
2. Waited a couple minutes, still wouldn’t start.
3. Waited again, nothing this time, no sound when turned key
4. Opened hood, jiggled a few wires, and battery cables. Then it started right away.
5. After 5 minutes of driving smoke coming from hood, pulled over immediately and opened hood, battery was on fire. Called 911, fire dept arrived quickly, fire stopped just as they arrived. They pulled the cables for me. So sitting on side of the road waiting for tow driver.

I did just install a new cap and ignition coil. Could the ignition coil be the culprit?

Thanks!
Not likely. Batteries have been known to spontaneously short out and catch fire especially if old. A speedometer shop near here lost his shop in a fire that started by a battery in a car he had just sitting in his shop.
As Biddle suggested Keep an ABC fire extinguisher on board and a master battery cut off switch on the battery.
 
Been reading while sitting here, didn’t realize loose cables can cause battery fire.

Thinking this may be the issue. When I tried to start the third time, I had no cranking/sound at all, until I jiggled the cables. And thinking about it, the firefighter removed the negative cable without a wrench, hmm.

Thanks
 
Been reading while sitting here, didn’t realize loose cables can cause battery fire.

Thinking this may be the issue. When I tried to start the third time, I had no cranking/sound at all, until I jiggled the cables. And thinking about it, the firefighter removed the negative cable without a wrench, hmm.

Thanks
Yah extra resistance = heat especially if you are still 6V. Lots more current draw than 12V hence the required larger cables.
 
I agree with Ward 57 , Always check for crack cables and the connections. Always carry a fire extinguisher.
 
As far as auto fire extinguishers go, spend the extra money for a halon extinguisher. ABC types get the powder EVERYWHERE and it sticks to and is corrosive to metal, especially wiring.

Sorry to hear that you had this problem.

Vern
 
Thank you for the extinguisher info!

This seems to be the issue, Ordered new cables, and seems a Group 2 battery is better fit than the Group 1 the dealer installed. My first battery fire, I’m on edge driving this car again after new battery.

Thanks!
 
Halon is VERY expensive...BUT there is no mess of excess powder material that would be covering the engine compartment.
 
Halon is VERY expensive...BUT there is no mess of excess powder material that would be covering the engine compartment.
That is very true and the ABC extinguishers to make a huge mess with grit everywhere. There are alternatives to halon as it is no longer produced and illegal in some areas. Plus it dissipates oxygen and can be very dangerous if inhaled. Granger has a halotron extinguisher but at over $300. There are CO2 extinguishers also.
 
I have seen batteries with melted posts and ones that have caught fire, both as a result of "dirty" battery connections. The lead on the posts and/or clamps will oxidize creating a high resistance between the two which can cause heat. It is recommended to remove the terminals and use a terminal cleaning tool or brush, or sandpaper about once a year to eliminate this problem. Coating the connections with grease or battery protector spray after they are clean will also prevent corrosion.
 
I've been in the golf course business for 45 years and had golf cart batteries explode under the seat. Mostly in the spring after the winter storage. I guess my tip is to check the cables when starting in the spring before your first drive.
 
Evening,

I'm replacing my charred battery, cables, and starter relay. Just paranoid, just need a quick confirmation.

This is a picture of the previous battery connected (caught fire), after my research, it seems this is wrong (positive to positive, neg. to neg.)? Shouldn't I flip the battery, so the positive is connected to the starter relay.

Thank you!

tbird.jpg
 
if your 55 is still wired as stock original, the negative side of the battery should be as it is and be attached to the starter relay
your positive post should be attached to ground, most likely to the engine manifold.

what is with all of the tape on the cables, if the insulation is that bad the wires would be bad as well and should be replaced.
the wires tend to separate and cause heat.
 
These old car are really cool
I try to save as much of the original parts as I can
But
old wiring can ruin you day if left unattended
looks like you have a lot of fun ahead of you
good luck and keep us posted
 
Evening,

I'm replacing my charred battery, cables, and starter relay. Just paranoid, just need a quick confirmation.

This is a picture of the previous battery connected (caught fire), after my research, it seems this is wrong (positive to positive, neg. to neg.)? Shouldn't I flip the battery, so the positive is connected to the starter relay.
If your car is still 6 volt positive ground, the positive terminal of the battery is connected to the transmission bell housing bolt and the negative terminal is connected to the starter solenoid. Looking at your picture, I don't like that you have the negative cable that is going to the solenoid routing over the hood latch. Looking at the attached picture you will see that the negative cable should route under the master cylinder and then up to the solenoid.

100_6617.JPG

Just a thought, but by routing the negative cable that goes to the solenoid over the hood latch it's possable that the cable shorted out on the hood latch at the circled areas in the picture below. This could have caused the battery to catch on fire.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Battery Cable.jpg
 
Wow! Thank you! I’m working on this now, and the fit did seem odd. Finding myself replacing a few wires.

Now I have to find a battery tray, that‘ll accommodate a group 2 battery. The original is obviously too small.

Amazing how perfect your engine compartment is!

Thank you again.
 
That is very true and the ABC extinguishers to make a huge mess with grit everywhere. There are alternatives to halon as it is no longer produced and illegal in some areas. Plus it dissipates oxygen and can be very dangerous if inhaled. Granger has a halotron extinguisher but at over $300. There are CO2 extinguishers also.
I have just ordered a new type of fire extinguisher called Element Advanced Fire Protection. It is about the size of the old road flares, and the extinguishing gas last a lot longer than other extinguishers. Google them for more information, and cost about $79. Their ads look impressive.
Ralph
 
When replacing the cables, make sure you get the heavier cables for a 6 volt system. The 12 volt cables cannot carry the amp load of a 6 volt system.
 
I have been following this post and a few comments that I have regarding positive ground 6 volt system. I have maintained the original 6 volt system running off a optima 6 volt battery and had problems with starting following a warm engine shut down. I changed the cables to custom larger diameter to eliminate that being a culprit. I still experienced the same issue. I then implemented a two optima battery configuration which I had found from research and the starting issue resolved itself immediately. Aside from having to charge the second battery when it drains too low my success with the optima batteries has not been favorable. I am now replacing for the third time a new battery just since last May that has gone bad. The one prior had failed but I don’t know how old that one was maybe a year to two years?
My concern is if the engine compartment is just too hot for the location of the batteries does this impact the longevity of the batteries? Aside from the obvious concern for explosion as noted here in this topic my desire is safety vs authenticity. Would this situation be improved by locating the battery or in my case batteries to the Trunk and removing the heat Factor all together?
I have read that others have experienced issues with Red top 6 volts recently but this seems out of the ordinary.

Thanks for any recommendations or comments.
Martin
 
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