Intake Manifold Replacement

Status
Not open for further replies.
H
Last seen
Joined
Jan 31, 2007
My plastic intake manifold has cracked. This is the second time this has happened. How difficult is it to replace the manifold myself? Is it pretty much a straightforward remove and replace? Do I need special tools to remove and re-install the fuel injectors? I plan on installing a Dorman replacement manifold (about $240). Thanks
Hal
 

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

Yeah it is a pain to replace the manifold , but you do not need any speacial tools to replace it and i have one that was used for a very short time and i dont need it for my bird cause im gonna drop a 351C in it.
 
Thanks for the offer of the intake manifold, but I've already bought one from RockAuto.com. (I paid $238??) It's an improved design by Dorman. It's better than the original. The front water passage is now cast aluminum ( instead of plastic) and the rear heater hose connector is now plastic instead of brass. The new manifold won't crack in front because it's now aluminum. Also, the OEM brass heater hose connector would crack the plastic due to unequal expansion characteristics. Since the rear is now all plastic, there shouldn't be a problem. (The plastic is a nylon material.)

The local Ford dealer wants $500 for the manifold and $500 labor to install. This will be my THIRD manifold. Since there were so many problems with all these plastic manifolds, you'd think that for good customer relations, Ford would have sold the manifold at manufacturing cost and also had a reduced price for installation. Since so many have been replaced, I'm sure a Ford mechanic can replace one of these manifolds pretty quickly. (Probably in two hours of less - nothing justifying a $500 labor cost.)

Here's a good article about replaceing a very similar manifold in a Crown Vic.

www.redpulsar.us/~coldfusion/intakeswap.html
 
Just replaced my 96 Tbird 4.6 manifold myself. Just a few tips I learned from personal experience.
There are several 4.6 manifold YouTube videos you can watch for various other Ford vehicles in advance, but I did not find one specific to 96-97 Tbirds. Watch them anyway, they are very similar and will help if you want to DIY with the Dorman replacement manifold. Got mine on Rockauto.com Jan 2021 for $198 shipped after 5% off coupon My Manifold was replaced under warranty in the early 2000’s by Ford after the original blew in the front crossover. It lasted awhile, but now has cracked at the rear at the heater hose attachment (brass fitting in plastic manifold) & I discovered upon removal the driver side rear corner was also slowly seeping.
1. Handle the plastic emissions tubing when disconnecting things very carefully, it may break in half with the slightest wiggling. Plastic wire clips now 24 years older are very brittle too (I broke one tab off).

2. It’s not necessary to disconnect the fuel supply lines for the injectors, just flip the whole assembly out of the way after removal
Be sure to wipe the lower O rings which are likely now covered in dirt when you pulled them out. I was unsure about reinserting them as I never had dealt with them, but they were very easy to push in after lining them up in the holes.

3.After removing the old manifold, I used brake cleaner & 00 steel wool to clean & smooth the head mating surfaces and air blow all the dirt out after plugging head openings with paper towels.

4. Fill any Ford gasket anchoring holes in the head surface with a dot of RVT to be safe from potential vacuum leaks. There is a mention of this on the instruction sheet provided, but be sure to avoid etc the areas you know the seals will sit around the holes

5. Make note where studs with nuts were located that things may have been attached to, as the new manifold supplies hex head self tapping screws instead. As some of these holes are not threaded you will need to use the old machine thread bolts and drive in with the socket while applying strong downward pressure to get them to bite and cut their own threads in, or use a tap if you have one. One held a ground wire on the fuel rail ( passenger front corner) & another held the wire harness, and plastic tube (driver rear corner).
6. Be sure to tighten manifold per instruction sequence with a torque wrench.

7. On my 96 I was able to use my stock alternator brackets, although the kit comes with 2 others. It was missing the two plugs in the kit some videos say it comes with but I transferred over my two sensors and I did not need any plugs.

8. The old Ford manifold used a thick fiber gasket between the manifold and throttle body. Nothing in instructions about using one with new manifold & was confusing, but after examination the new manifold has the rubber seal built in and I did not use the old gasket.
9. When mounting throttle body I discovered there was less clearance for the wire harness to fit under the passenger front leg of the throttle body and would not allow it to seat down on the manifold flange, regardless if I had used the old gasket or not. Trying to relocate the harness forward causes the rear two injector wires to not reach. I ended up carefully opening up the wire loom a few inches (cutting carefully with razor cutter) to separate out the two injector wires out to allow them to run under that front leg of the throttle body to reach while still moving the bulky wire harness forward out from under the throttle body. The new manifold has insufficient height clearance for the thick wire bundle to remain in the exact same place were it crosses over the top of the block which added time to the project to overcome this.

Mechanic book says it’s a 3.2 hour job (had quotes $350 & up labor only plus shop supplies to do it. Doing it for first time in my garage with simple hand tools it took about 7 hours total with time spent discovering & overcoming minor issues,
if you do a lot of your own work anyway and are familiar with automotive fasteners , you should be able to do this & save some $$$. Hope this helped!
 

Attachments

  • D9472A40-E511-4A10-9BE7-8C5C6E4B21DE.jpeg
    D9472A40-E511-4A10-9BE7-8C5C6E4B21DE.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 2
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top