Brake booster rebuilders, 1957

[doug7740]

Oil in brake systems will make the rubber seals swell so I would not put penetrating oil in it. I rebuilt mine and it's better but nothing to brag about. Here's a link to a video I made of the rebuilding process.

What an excellent instructional video. I wish more people were like you and would included pictures, articles, videos etc. As I have said in the past a picture is worth a thousand words, I wish more people were like you and would add attachments to back up or explain their answers.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[jimntempe]

Thanks. That was one of the tests I wanted to make to see if it was a hardened seal. It's even possible the diaphragm is leaking and I'll order a new one with the kit. I plan on rebuilding the booster any way. I'll watch the video or at least book mark it for when I get the kit.

When I took mine apart the seals seemed reasonably soft and the big diaphragm was still good. There was some rust and corrosion but not a lot. There was a fair amount of funky brake fluid in places that were not supposed have brake fluid.

 

[Ward 57]

When I took mine apart the seals seemed reasonably soft and the big diaphragm was still good. There was some rust and corrosion but not a lot. There was a fair amount of funky brake fluid in places that were not supposed have brake fluid.

So you never were able to diagnose the issue but the rebuild did the trick?

 

[jimntempe]

So you never were able to diagnose the issue but the rebuild did the trick?

Before the rebuild it had a very very hard pedal. Now it’s a really firm pedal. I can feel it “kick in” but only after pushing fairly strongly. It’s better but not like a modern car. From what I can tell it was rebuilt before and the control valve may be the wrong one.

 

[Ward 57]

Before the rebuild it had a very very hard pedal. Now it’s a really firm pedal. I can feel it “kick in” but only after pushing fairly strongly. It’s better but not like a modern car. From what I can tell it was rebuilt before and the control valve may be the wrong one.

Or sticky. I watched the you tube video and there are some pretty tight tolerances. I reviewed the shop manual and there is an adjustment for that on the regular passenger cars, but apparently they moved the booster to the fender because of lack of room I haven't seen evidence of that on the T-Birds. Ordered the kit and diaphragm form Casco today.

 

[knuckle47]

That was a great video. I feel like you've made me an expert booster repair man. I have no choice now but to perform this rebuild on my booster.

 

[Calistoga T-Bird]

I'd recommend rebuilding it yourself, it's not difficult. I rebuilt my booster and it's a very straight forword process. I did see the video after I completed my rebuild, and the video is great. It's gratifying and grounding to do your own work.

 

[knuckle47]

I'd recommend rebuilding it yourself, it's not difficult. I rebuilt my booster and it's a very straight forword process. I did see the video after I completed my rebuild, and the video is great. It's gratifying and grounding to do your own work.

So after you did the work, did you notice the braking improvement? I have a very hard pedal, almost there was a manual brake…..seems like it’s vacuum related and I could happily put of other improvements to the car as long as I know the mechanics of it are in good working order so this has now become a priority for me

 

[doug7740]

I'd recommend rebuilding it yourself, it's not difficult. I rebuilt my booster and it's a very straight forword process. I did see the video after I completed my rebuild, and the video is great. It's gratifying and grounding to do your own work.

From rebuilding the engine and transmission to repairing the radio and clock, doing the repair yourself is the fun of the hobby and that's how you learn.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[knuckle47]

I plan on all of it. The way I’ve always approached it with the old bikes, at worst…I’ll need to have it done by a pro after I screw it up. But I have never feared doing it myself. The success I have had in 1920’s motorcycles landed me a magazine article spread and a ABATE calendar….I have gained enough knowledge now to look into almost any kinds of issues as a result of that live and learn concept. I would recommend it for anyone.
They say” it ain’t rocket science”

That clock scares me….never tried one of those…haha

 

[knuckle47]

Once again Doug.... I have learned more in 4 days here than the 6 books on my shelf. And being obsessed with getting things right and working..I have read almost all of them... These 2 pages will go a very long way...Thank you

 

[Ward 57]

I had my booster rebuilt and it is working great for one exception. The bleeder screw kas kept weeping. I cinched it down a little more as it was not the original screw which was steel this one was of some other plated metal. Some of the plating was sluffed of so I thought some of it got into the seat. Cleaned everything up and cinched it down again but it did not seal at all. My shop found a proper plug which has solved the problem for now. Is it possible even though the seat in the booster looks good but is the seat pressed in or is it part of the casting of the booster that I may have dislodged? Nobody seems to know and want me to send it off to have eyeballs on it. Have ordered another screw to test.