Borgeson Power Steering Gear Box Conversion for 1957

[TJShea]

Hello, Once again I bring my novice self to ask for some experience expertise. I am having my 57 worked on at a local restoration shop here in as Vegas. They work on vintage and muscle cars from Auburns and concourse class Packards and up. The work they have done on my car, as well as some friend's and relative's, has produced great results. The owner suggested that to solve some ongoing steering issues, I might consider removing the old-style gearbox, and installing a Borgeson power steering gear box. The pumps, etc remains, but the troublesome control valve and I believe a possibly failing ram cylinder would go away. The owner said that there is a shortening modification necessary that they do to the steering column. But when completed, the steering is improved more along the lines of a "modern system." Ball joints also are being replaced as they are worn. Since I was concerned about changing things from "original," he is going to give me a spare 57 steering shaft, and the other parts, so if I want, or if I sell the car, it can be returned to "original." I also spoke to a friend who runs a corvette shop and he says he has put dozens of the conversions on vintage corvettes. I am always leery about changing things from the original design without a good safety/operability reason. My question is, I looked a round a bit but did not find too much forum conversation concerning the pros/cons of the conversion. I was hoping someone on this site may have experiences with he conversion either good or bad, and pass their experience on. Thanks in advance.

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[Harleyhoot]

Hello, Once again I bring my novice self to ask for some experience expertise. I am having my 57 worked on at a local restoration shop here in as Vegas. They work on vintage and muscle cars from Auburns and concourse class Packards and up. The work they have done on my car, as well as some friend's and relative's, has produced great results. The owner suggested that to solve some ongoing steering issues, I might consider removing the old-style gearbox, and installing a Borgeson power steering gear box. The pumps, etc remains, but the troublesome control valve and I believe a possibly failing ram cylinder would go away. The owner said that there is a shortening modification necessary that they do to the steering column. But when completed, the steering is improved more along the lines of a "modern system." Ball joints also are being replaced as they are worn. Since I was concerned about changing things from "original," he is going to give me a spare 57 steering shaft, and the other parts, so if I want, or if I sell the car, it can be returned to "original." I also spoke to a friend who runs a corvette shop and he says he has put dozens of the conversions on vintage corvettes. I am always leery about changing things from the original design without a good safety/operability reason. My question is, I looked a round a bit but did not find too much forum conversation concerning the pros/cons of the conversion. I was hoping someone on this site may have experiences with he conversion either good or bad, and pass their experience on. Thanks in advance.

I did this conversion on my 55 several years ago. I have all the stuff to do it,.....pump, box and custom mount for the pump and shortened steering column which keeps the adjustable column . I had to change this steering because I added headers this winter and the borgeson box was in the way. I can supply you with everything you need for a borgeson conversion. The steering worked good and eliminated the old control valve and leaks associated with it. Only downside was that the borgeson pump has more pressure than is needed so a pressure reducer would be needed for the pump. Let me know if you might be interested. I changed my steering...for header clearance to Unisteer power rack and pinion,
Al

 

[SWinner]

I recently installed the Unisteer rack and pinion in my 56 T-Bird. I looked at the Borgeson and the Flaming River systems. I eliminated the Flaming River system because it required you to use their steering column and the price was much higher. I eliminated the Borgeson because it used most of the existing steering components that are 60+ years old.

The Unisteer system allowed me to keep my existing steering column, which was important to me, although it was not without issues. The steering column shaft and the bearings that they supplied did not fit each other. The shaft was larger in diameter than the bearings. Unisteer said to just file the shaft a little and they would fit. Well after several more calls to them and 12 – 15 hours of filing they finally fit. You will also lose the ability to adjust the steering wheel forward and aft. This was not important to me since the steering wheel was always forward. Their instructions acknowledge this.

The rack was a bolt in. I did need to add some spacers on the driver's side. The rack fits inside the frame rails and bolts to the existing holes from the original steering components.

One other issue I had was the way Unisteer chose to support the bottom end of the steering column. They supplied a T-Bar clamp that was too large to secure the column to their support. I end up modifying their support and welding on a standard 1 ½” muffler clamp. This secured the bottom of the column very well.

I was able to use my existing power steering pump, though I did need to have custom power steering hoses made.

With all the issued I had, The Unisteer system corrected all of the issues I had with the original power steering. I am very happy with it.

Since you are going to replace the ball joints, replace the control arm bushing as well.

Good luck with your project,

Steve

 

[SWPruett]

I did this conversion on my 55 several years ago. I have all the stuff to do it,.....pump, box and custom mount for the pump and shortened steering column which keeps the adjustable column . I had to change this steering because I added headers this winter and the borgeson box was in the way. I can supply you with everything you need for a borgeson conversion. The steering worked good and eliminated the old control valve and leaks associated with it. Only downside was that the borgeson pump has more pressure than is needed so a pressure reducer would be needed for the pump. Let me know if you might be interested. I changed my steering...for header clearance to Unisteer power rack and pinion,
Al

Harleyhoot,

When you say the Borgeson pump, do you mean the Saginaw pump kit they offer? Does that mean the stock Ford pump could be used as-is if I already have a factory P/S car I want to convert?

Sven

 

[Harleyhoot]

sorry...I thought about that as soon as I wrote it...just didn't change it.....YES Saginaw pump and Bogeson box. Not sure about the stock 55-56 pump but it might be worth a try......only difference in most pumps is the pressure anyway
Al

 

[Harleyhoot]

I recently installed the Unisteer rack and pinion in my 56 T-Bird. I looked at the Borgeson and the Flaming River systems. I eliminated the Flaming River system because it required you to use their steering column and the price was much higher. I eliminated the Borgeson because it used most of the existing steering components that are 60+ years old.

The Unisteer system allowed me to keep my existing steering column, which was important to me, although it was not without issues. The steering column shaft and the bearings that they supplied did not fit each other. The shaft was larger in diameter than the bearings. Unisteer said to just file the shaft a little and they would fit. Well after several more calls to them and 12 – 15 hours of filing they finally fit. You will also lose the ability to adjust the steering wheel forward and aft. This was not important to me since the steering wheel was always forward. Their instructions acknowledge this.

The rack was a bolt in. I did need to add some spacers on the driver's side. The rack fits inside the frame rails and bolts to the existing holes from the original steering components.

One other issue I had was the way Unisteer chose to support the bottom end of the steering column. They supplied a T-Bar clamp that was too large to secure the column to their support. I end up modifying their support and welding on a standard 1 ½” muffler clamp. This secured the bottom of the column very well.

I was able to use my existing power steering pump, though I did need to have custom power steering hoses made.

With all the issued I had, The Unisteer system corrected all of the issues I had with the original power steering. I am very happy with it.

Since you are going to replace the ball joints, replace the control arm bushing as well.

Good luck with your project,

Steve

Steve, I did the same conversion with Unisteer power rack and had all the same problems that you had. I made plates for each side of the rack mount cause the mount I got was .570 too narrow so I spaced each side to keep the rack in the center of the car. Also made a billet mount for the steering column as their "hose clamp" just won't work. I also had to find different tie rod ends as the ones they sent wouldn't even reach the spindles. and naturally made my own hoses as theirs are about 6 inches too long. Regardless I got it done and the steering works well......maybe too well. I'm getting no feedback from the steering at all so on these mountain roads it's a workout just to keep the car in the right lane. Do you have that problem with yours? I have modified upper control arms to allow for more caster and have 3.4 degrees now but still no feedback to return to center......just curious about yours. Al

 

[SWinner]

Steve, I did the same conversion with Unisteer power rack and had all the same problems that you had. I made plates for each side of the rack mount cause the mount I got was .570 too narrow so I spaced each side to keep the rack in the center of the car. Also made a billet mount for the steering column as their "hose clamp" just won't work. I also had to find different tie rod ends as the ones they sent wouldn't even reach the spindles. and naturally made my own hoses as theirs are about 6 inches too long. Regardless I got it done and the steering works well......maybe too well. I'm getting no feedback from the steering at all so on these mountain roads it's a workout just to keep the car in the right lane. Do you have that problem with yours? I have modified upper control arms to allow for more caster and have 3.4 degrees now but still no feedback to return to center......just curious about yours. Al

Al, I purchased my Unisteer system from an eBay vendor in Dec 2021. It was about $300 less that purchasing from Unisteer. It sat in the box for about a year before I started the install.

I’m in Houston and the closest mountains are in New Mexico. Houston is flat, so I have not had the issues you experienced. I have only had my car on the road for 2 months.

I believe your caster is too much. The factory settings are:

Caster - ½ to 1½ degree
Camber - ¼ to 1¼ degree
Tow-in - 1/16 to 1/8 inches

There is a repair shop that does work on a lot of vintage classic cars close to me. Craig, the owner knows how to set the alignment on older cars with radial tires. He was able to bring up a 57 T-Bird on his Hunter software and used that as a starting point. He tweaked it a little for radial tires.

I believe camber is what returns the steering to center after a turn.

I also had over a ½” of space between the frame rails.

I did not have issues with the tie rod ends. Mine mounted with 1” of thread inside the ends.

I spent 14 months doing a complete engine compartment restoration. I had everything in front of the windshield that could be removed off the car. Painted the forward section of the frame. I also stripped, filled imperfections on the engine compartment sheet metal, epoxy primed, high build primed and applied 4 coats of PPG’s Single Stage JAU Direct Gloss Acrylic Urethane. I also had the engine completely rebuilt.

Here are a few pictures of the steering column clamp and the engine compartment. It is still a work in progress. Need to paint the hood hinges and install the hood, although without the hood gives it kind of a hot rod look.
Steve

 

[Ward 57]

When I sold Volkswagens in the late 70's one of their selling points was that their camber helped the steering return on their light cars added to their drivability and helped center the wheel after a turn.

 

[SWPruett]

I did this conversion on my 55 several years ago. I have all the stuff to do it,.....pump, box and custom mount for the pump and shortened steering column which keeps the adjustable column . I had to change this steering because I added headers this winter and the borgeson box was in the way. I can supply you with everything you need for a borgeson conversion. The steering worked good and eliminated the old control valve and leaks associated with it. Only downside was that the borgeson pump has more pressure than is needed so a pressure reducer would be needed for the pump. Let me know if you might be interested. I changed my steering...for header clearance to Unisteer power rack and pinion,
Al

I’d be very interested in any detail you could provide on the shortened column and how that was achieved. Borgeson doesn’t mention a thing about that in the instructions they provide with the steering box (unless I missed something). I have heard that Fat Man Fabrication makes a kit to adapt the lower column to the Borgeson steering box shaft, but I have not been able ton back that up. Thoughts?

 

[doug7740]

When I sold Volkswagens in the late 70's one of their selling points was that their camber helped the steering return on their light cars added to their drivability and helped center the wheel after a turn.

Ward,

Camber is a tire wearing angle and can cause vehicle pull. Caster is not a tire wearing angle that affects handling, wheel pull and returnability.

So everyong understands the different wheel alignment angles and their effects on a vehicle, below is an article that I wrote years ago.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[TJShea]

Thanks for the info. I was looking to improve the steering problem I was experiencing, when the option of the switch to the Borgeson steering gear box was brought up. My thought was this would improve the steering, let me retain most of the original look by keeping the stock pump, etc, and eliminate some parts that seemed to be a reoccurring issue and leak a bit. A plus was that in this case, it would be reversable if for some reason I elected to go back to original. One added feature is that it would not be that expensive. The Unisteer rack and pinion replacement was not brought up, and until now I didn't know anything about that option. I do not think I want to go that far, and still think changing out the current gearbox with the Borgeson and eliminating the ram cylinder and control valve, while retaining the stock power steering pump is more attractive for me, especially since with the shop giving me a stack steering shaft, a return to "stock" wouldn't be that difficult if there are issues with the Borgeson set-up. Again, thanks for the responses, I was hoping no one had horror stories about the Borgeson that would make me question the change more than I already have. I like keeping things stock as possible, yet when it comes to safety areas and/or improved drivability I don't have an issue with proven modern engineering changes. I am not a concours car guy. I'd never make that grade. Hopefully, the Borgenson option is a "proven" modern improvement.

 

[Harleyhoot]

I’d be very interested in any detail you could provide on the shortened column and how that was achieved. Borgeson doesn’t mention a thing about that in the instructions they provide with the steering box (unless I missed something). I have heard that Fat Man Fabrication makes a kit to adapt the lower column to the Borgeson steering box shaft, but I have not been able ton back that up. Thoughts?

The Borgeson power steering box is much longer than the small stock manual box so things have to shorten. What I did is layout the column on a tabletop with measurements for the original and the Borgeson. I used a steering universal on the borgeson box and mated the original sliding splined shaft to it. Had to shorten both shafts and welded a small bracket on the shortened tube to mount to the firewall with a couple of bolts. I covered the shaft and universal with a black shock boot that fit the borgeson box and the steering tube. If need be I can take some pictures of the parts and forward. Fat Man re-located my upper control arm ball joint area to provide more caster for the radial tires but it still ain't enough in my opinion as almost everything I study about front end geometry says you can adjust caster,,,,sometimes up to 8 degrees positive to give more positive feedback in turns..

 

[Ward 57]

When I sold Volkswagens in the late 70's one of their selling points was that their camber helped the steering return on their light cars added to their drivability and helped center the wheel after a turn.

I meant to say caster not camber.

 

[SWPruett]

The Borgeson power steering box is much longer than the small stock manual box so things have to shorten. What I did is layout the column on a tabletop with measurements for the original and the Borgeson. I used a steering universal on the borgeson box and mated the original sliding splined shaft to it. Had to shorten both shafts and welded a small bracket on the shortened tube to mount to the firewall with a couple of bolts. I covered the shaft and universal with a black shock boot that fit the borgeson box and the steering tube. If need be I can take some pictures of the parts and forward. Fat Man re-located my upper control arm ball joint area to provide more caster for the radial tires but it still ain't enough in my opinion as almost everything I study about front end geometry says you can adjust caster,,,,sometimes up to 8 degrees positive to give more positive feedback in turns..

I would very much appreciate any detail photos you might be willing to share on your solution! The description sounds reasonable enough and not terribly complicated altogether. Coupled with the fact that you’ve “been there, done that”, I ain’t afraid to run with a proven idea!

As for the added caster, I am 100% in your camp! These little birds were notoriously “light” on caster and steering effort and self-centering was not a attribute that was particularly prioritized in suspension settings of the day. I’d think somewhere north of 6 degrees positive caster would start getting the self-centering effects to become noticeable. At some point, I’d start looking for clearance problems to the fender edges perhaps, and possible increased bump steer, as the increase in caster will slightly shorten the wheelbase by movine the tire rearward in the wheel opening As well as slightly affect the effective tie rod length. However, that might just be a chance I am willing to take as both conditions can be resolved.

 

[Harleyhoot]

I’d be very interested in any detail you could provide on the shortened column and how that was achieved. Borgeson doesn’t mention a thing about that in the instructions they provide with the steering box (unless I missed something). I have heard that Fat Man Fabrication makes a kit to adapt the lower column to the Borgeson steering box shaft, but I have not been able ton back that up. Thoughts?

I would very much appreciate any detail photos you might be willing to share on your solution! The description sounds reasonable enough and not terribly complicated altogether. Coupled with the fact that you’ve “been there, done that”, I ain’t afraid to run with a proven idea!

As for the added caster, I am 100% in your camp! These little birds were notoriously “light” on caster and steering effort and self-centering was not a attribute that was particularly prioritized in suspension settings of the day. I’d think somewhere north of 6 degrees positive caster would start getting the self-centering effects to become noticeable. At some point, I’d start looking for clearance problems to the fender edges perhaps, and possible increased bump steer, as the increase in caster will slightly shorten the wheelbase by movine the tire rearward in the wheel opening As well as slightly affect the effective tie rod length. However, that might just be a chance I am willing to take as both conditions can be resolved.

SW, I am a retired engine builder so time is on my side. I have taken some photos of the conversion parts as they are not in the car now. If luck has it then I will download here now. The pics show the splice in the original shaft, sleeved, pined and welded...I had a worn out steering box that donated the spline shaft. I made an aluminum bushing and pressed it into the shortened tube to support the shaft....hence the grease fitting.....I cut the original tube where it comes thru the firewall and added a section of exhaust tubing to get the length I needed.the under hood pics show the billet tube mount that I made for the Unisteer that someone else brought up here.

 

[SWPruett]

SW, I am a retired engine builder so time is on my side. I have taken some photos of the conversion parts as they are not in the car now. If luck has it then I will download here now. The pics show the splice in the original shaft, sleeved, pined and welded...I had a worn out steering box that donated the spline shaft. I made an aluminum bushing and pressed it into the shortened tube to support the shaft....hence the grease fitting.....I cut the original tube where it comes thru the firewall and added a section of exhaust tubing to get the length I needed.the under hood pics show the billet tube mount that I made for the Unisteer that someone else brought up here....now to try the download...

Thanks million for this! Got ‘em all downloaded in good shape! I GET IT! And a nice solution indeed!

And may I say that is an impressive looking engine bay! I always found the Y-Block to be a “handsome” engine and yours is top shelf!

 

[Harleyhoot]

Thanks million for this! Got ‘em all downloaded in good shape! I GET IT! And a nice solution indeed!

And may I say that is an impressive looking engine bay! I always found the Y-Block to be a “handsome” engine and yours is top shelf!

Thanks man. I am working with Michigan Machine Works now to build a pair of tubular adjustable upper control arms that will allow 6 to 8 degrees of positive caster in this old car with the Unisteer rack.

 

[TJShea]

Hello. I thought I would provide an update to what I started with this post in April. The shop here in Las Vegas has completed the work of transitioning my 57 to the Borgeson. The folks are very detailed and exact in the work they do. The shop owner took many photos, some look like those supplied above, through the process and kept notes to send to Borgeson so they could improve the instructions (apparently currently pretty minimal) for install on our T-Birds if they desire. With what I have been reading about quality control issues with some of the replacement control valves and ram cylinders, and the leaks these parts seem prone to sprout now and then, having them now gone just eliminates two things that may have needed attention in the future. For the change I did elect to retain the original steering pump and reservoir. Now, the car steers like a modern car, responsive and smooth, cornering is sure and the steering corrects to center, etc. The steering problems I was experiencing are gone. I am retaining the replaced/removed parts and have a replacement shaft so if I ever sell the car, or decide to go back to "original," I have the parts. One has to look pretty hard to see the changes made with this steering change, For me, I do not try and achieve a "concours" car. I am not meticulous nor skilled enough for that. Not to mention the lack of funds for such Like many I read from on these forums, I try to balance reasonable safety improvements yet keep as much of an original look as practical in the bargain. This steering change, so far, seems to have achieved that, and solved a steering issue that made the car difficult to drive at times. An added benefit, when the steering was taken apart, the mechanics found that the ball joints, etc, were in great shape. So, they were not part of the problem as originally thought. If I have a "failure" occur, I will update this again. Hopefully, I didn't just jinx myself. Thanks again for all of the input etc, from you all on this forum. I find it very valuable.

 

[D Jones]

Jumping in here for Al; do you still have the parts for the Borgeson conversion referenced above? If yes, could we set-up a side bar conversation. Just purchased a 57, may just be a steering valve adjustment, but if its a rebuild or more, this might be a good option for me.

 

[TJShea]

Jumping in here for Al; do you still have the parts for the Borgeson conversion referenced above? If yes, could we set-up a side bar conversation. Just purchased a 57, may just be a steering valve adjustment, but if its a rebuild or more, this might be a good option for me.

Hello;

I am keeping the parts "just in case."