Body shims and spacers on a 55 T bird

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55birdman

55birdman

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Sep 16, 2016
Thunderbird Year
1955
504D7281-8256-4D3B-B9C9-AB290CED16B1.jpeg In the not too distant future I’ll be putting the body back on the frame for the last time. Because I’ve replaced the original automatic transmission with a T5, I’ve dropped the body on using only the 10 rubber isolators as spacers. As it turns out, I did have to make modifications to the tunnel but that was somewhat expected. I’ll be building a console that will cover the T5 access cover.
When I got the car many of the body mounting bolts had already been removed and when I removed the remainder I didn’t take note of the thickness of the shim stacks01F413A9-B298-407D-AD1F-21E8F00CFD41.jpeg . So my question is how should I go about determining the proper thickness of the shims?
Should the body be fully assembled so that I can determine the door gaps or will that be a function adjusting the doors on their hinges?
 
Possibly one of the Tbird completion centers could help, I have been to CASCO and they welcome you to visit and speak with their techs. Hills may be closer for you, although you may be able to call and get your answers. I do know that the shims are critical to the fitment of the body.
 
One article I found mentioned using the same thickness shims at all points and somehow this didnt seem correct.
Why have various thickness shims available if this were true?

Has anyone considered using polyurethane bushings instead of the original metal ones?
It appears that the average thickness of my shims is ~42' based on the shims I have at hand.
But as I mentioned in an earlier post, the car was partially disassembled when I recieved it, I may be missing some.
I understant that varying the the thickness of the shim stack compensates for irregularities in construction.
I bought a set of Jeep CJ body bushings which are ~.66" that I can machine to the proper dimensions.

Thoughts?

No comments on polyurethane bushings I suppose?
I'm to the point of putting the body back on the frame for the last time - I hope!
I've started with the original metal shims; one thick and one thin (5/16"+ 3/32") at all locations as a starting point. In doing so I'm finding is that the 10
rubber spacers (all new) that attach to the frame under the passanger compartment are not contacting body at all.
Shouldn't they contact the floor pan and bear weight?
 
I didn't get the shims right, and just tightened the bolts up, pulling the body down to the mounts. It distorted the door openings so much the doors don't fit. Use the shims
 
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