66 Tbird landau bench test gauges | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models

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66 Tbird landau bench test gauges

  • Thread starter Thread starter fly.rodn
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fly.rodn

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1966
I had to disassemble the instrument cluster to fi a speedometer issue.

While the cluster is out I’d like to resolve issue with the amp meter and temperature gauges.

Can those be bench tested while out and, if so, how?

I tired a search and have the manuals but cannot find any info.

Haven’t done any electrical troubleshooting so a novice when it comes to that skill. I have a meter.

Thanks

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You will need two D cell batteries in series to produce a constant 5 volt electrical supply to the gauges. The temp gauge should deflect fully to the right when hooked up. Not sure what the amp meter should do but my guess is a small shift to the positive charge side of the gauge. The fuel, temperature and oil pressure gauges all depend on a constant 5 volt supply from a regulator that is located on the back of the cluster. This is easy to replace and you should put in a digital regulator instead, far more reliable - can be purchased from the BirdsNest
 
fly.rodn said:
I had to disassemble the instrument cluster to fi a speedometer issue.

While the cluster is out I’d like to resolve issue with the amp meter and temperature gauges.

Can those be bench tested while out and, if so, how?

I tired a search and have the manuals but cannot find any info.

Haven’t done any electrical troubleshooting so a novice when it comes to that skill. I have a meter.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Grahamp said:
You will need two D cell batteries in series to produce a constant 5 volt electrical supply to the gauges. The temp gauge should deflect fully to the right when hooked up. Not sure what the amp meter should do but my guess is a small shift to the positive charge side of the gauge. The fuel, temperature and oil pressure gauges all depend on a constant 5 volt supply from a regulator that is located on the back of the cluster. This is easy to replace and you should put in a digital regulator instead, far more reliable - can be purchased from the BirdsNest
Click to expand...

I’ll give it a shot when I pick up some D cells.

I did get a new CVR and will install it when I reassemble the cluster.

Thank you for replying
 
I was able to get the ammeter to move to the Charge when I put some power to it.

Is there a way to test the two wire connections to see if those have any charge coming through? I had a voltage meter but don’t know how to safely test since I’ve not done electrical testing before. I apprehensive about damaging something

Any advice on how to safely test is appreciate
 
If you put the volt meter between the two wires that connect to the ammeter and start the car, you should see a positive charge on the volt meter, may need to increase the rpm from idle. If no charge, then you have a wiring issue or a voltage regulator issue
Have you checked the alternator to see whether it is charging the battery? Fairly simple. With the engine off, connect the red positive lead of the voltmeter to the positive battery terminal, and the black to the negative battery terminal. It should read around 12.2 volts. Start the car and increase rpm to about 2000. The voltmeter should read around 13.5 to 14 volts, then turn on the headlights, heater fan etc, the voltmeter should show about the same charge rate. If that is the result , your alternator is working. If not, you have a failed alternator or voltage regulator. The latter is not expensive to replace . There are many U Tube productions that will help you.
 
Thanks.

The battery, and alternator are working as you described and I did replace the CVR several weeks ago.

I’ve not seen how the ammeter works but my needle is always in the middle regardless.

Since I have the instrument cluster out is it safe to start the car with all the wires out? Should I take any precautions with the wires?
 
I don’t think that should be an issue, just make sure you don’t have any bare wires touching the frame etc. if everything in the charging system is working, you must have a grounding issue or a broken wire from the alternator/12 volt regulator to the ammeter. Checking the continuity with the voltmeter should identify the issue
 
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