1. Please sign in or join the Thunderbird club free to access the search page and many other free site features.
    If you forgot your password click here.

    Click the "X" to the right to dismiss this notice.
    Dismiss Notice

1968 Hubs/ hub assembly

Discussion in '1967 - 1988 Ford Thunderbird' started by Edgars68, May 26, 2018.

  1. So for some reason my 68 has the uni hub and rotors on the front. The 1968 was suppose to come with hub and rotor as separate parts. Does anyone know if the hub specs are the same. The reason I ask is that I can only find the hub and rotor together
  2. Sounds like someone changed it at some point to the complete hub and rotor assembly. Does it have a spindle? If so I’d try getting the bearings for the 69 Thunderbird and see if the fit. Maybe someone changed it over to that?
    Edgars68 likes this.
  3. Hello Tbirds
    I am new to the club.
    Just purchased 1968 TBird suicidedoors.
    Looking for many many parts.
    I need assistance and I live Toronto Canada.

    Thank you all
  4. Gonna have to be more precise than that
  5. I have a 68 2 dr ht with most rust free body parts. Only a few minor things missing on it. No engine or trans. Let me know what you need for parts.
  6. fordrodsteven

    fordrodsteven Well-Known Member Gold Donor

    ????? hub and rotor together as one unit? When I look at Rock Auto it shows only a rotor. Are you sure that your rotors are not just rusted onto your hub / spindle and you will have to work a little harder to get them off?
  7. I don't know about the 1968, but my 1970 has the integrated hub and rotor.
  8. 1968 was the last year of the separate disc and wheel hub assembly. It was a lay over from the old 1965 brake system. They went to a more simplified single piston caliper over the older more complicated four piston caliper, separate disc and hub to an integrated hub. Now that sounds like it sucks, but in all honestly completely unnecessary. I have completely gone over the entire brake system on my 1969, and I can tell you that what it has now will bring the car to a stop safely and efficiently.

    As for the OP I would look to see if they are not rusted together like another poster had mentioned. Also you can tell if its all one hub assembly by pulling off the center cap and removing the cotter pin, castle head nut and washer. The single assembly should slide right off the spindle afterwards.

    Can you take pictures of the spindle and hub? Also the caliper?
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2018
  9. I am in the process of moving but I can assure you that it is one. Yes I took it off and it slip right off the spindle. I was thinking maybe someone though it was a good idea. Like I said the issue I am running into is that I can not find a hub for the 68. I will post pics when I can. Also the rust is not that bad on this rotors/hubs but I am planning on getting rust removal solution and just dunk them in there to see if the rust is that bad.
  10. So somebody modified your 1968, perhaps because they had the same issue as you - they couldn't find replacement hubs. Do you have the four piston caliper? Or do you have the newer style single piston caliper?

    I think you have two choices: revert your front end back to be fully 1968, or find out what they used when they reworked your front end, and buy parts that fit it.

    My rotors were badly rusted and I soaked then in vinegar for a few days, and that took the rust off. You can use household (cooking) vinegar, or the slightly stronger cleaning vinegar. I found that one rotor was at its service limit and couldn't be turned any further. I ended up buying two brand new rotors. Of course, my 1970 has the integral hub / rotors.
  11. Okay so a little more looking into it. the 1968 Thundebird had the single piston caliper and the separate hub and rotor assembly. 1967 was the last year of the four piston caliper (and man where they complex!). So I am guessing someone changed your spindle over to the 1969 style integrated hub and rotor assembly. Take pictures of the rotor assembly and show us what it looks like. Here are some pictures of the 1969 brake system. Anything look familiar?
    IMG_0166.JPG IMG_0176.JPG IMG_0178.JPG IMG_0179.JPG
    IMG_0217.JPG IMG_0219.JPG
  12. Yup!, that is exactly what I have. So by this I should be buying 69 rotors/hub assemblies then.
  13. Sounds about right. For the rotors try O'Reilly Auto Parts. It's where I got mine. Also KEEP ALL THE HARDWARE! Clean it up and reuse them if they can be cleaned. Problem with the newer calipers is they have the incorrect bends and the clips usually do not fit. I reused all my old hardware when I reinstalled them. While you are doing the hubs I suggest checking the ball joint boots and bushings. Mine were all completely rotted out or torn.

    EDIT: Rockauto now has the rotors for sale on their site. Make sure to get new bearings and seal for the new rotors while you are at it.
    Edgars68 likes this.
  14. Also check your brake lines! Soft and hard lines! Over time the inside of the rubber line can collapse and block flow of the fluid. Hard steel lines will be rusted shut and believe me when I tell you its almost IMPOSSIBLE to get the hard lines to screw off without either stripping them or snapping the line itself.
    Edgars68 likes this.
  15. Thank you.
  16. Rockauto also has the caliper pistons ($3.04 ea) and caliper rebuild kits ($1.13 ea) on closeout. Search as if you had a 1969, of course. If you plan to do the rear brakes too, they have the wheel cylinders on closeout at $3.88 each as well.
  17. Just get the caliper local if you can. They have millions of them and you get a core charge for taking the old ones back. Don't bother rebuilding them. They are so cheap to buy and are still widely available. Though like I said about the clips and such. The usually never fit and have to be modified. The rear brake parts I have come across are real cheap. Most are cheap made parts. If you original clips and such are still good reuse them. The calipers are good because its just all rebuilt. Small parts like clips, hold down pins etc are very cheaply made from what I have observed. On the rear drums I only used the springs since they were okay. My older ones were tired and stretched. Though I reused the brake shoe self adjusters. A lot of those old Bendix parts are made very well and last forever!

Help us by sharing/liking this page!

Shop Amazon.comPlease shop Amazon.com using this link to support the forum!