1966 Exhaust Manifold? Cracked Oil Leak Gasket | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1966 Exhaust Manifold? Cracked Oil Leak Gasket

cwink5
Reaction score
4
Thunderbird Year
1966
My knowledge is very minimum so trying to figure out what I’m looking even looking at and how bad & what I need to do order and do to fix. Rust & Gasket disappearing, oil around some of the plugs and plugs had oil and smelled like gas. Large crack on the passenger side rear I noted in the picture. Also pictured with drill hole what is going on there? Also the Exhaust unbolting? Not sure what’s going on with that. Any help is appreciated.
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So, first thing is you need to replace the manifold. The oil you see is a leaking valve cover gasket. You appear to have a missing or broken bolt in the picture from below.

Now is when you are going to stop liking me. To really do this job correctly you need to pull that head with the manifold attached. The reason why is because you will probably break 3 out of 4 of the top bolts when removing the manifold. It's always a great idea to surface the exhaust face of the head anytime it's off. Have your replacement manifold surfaced as well.
That drilled hole is for the choke stove.
 
So, first thing is you need to replace the manifold. The oil you see is a leaking valve cover gasket. You appear to have a missing or broken bolt in the picture from below.

Now is when you are going to stop liking me. To really do this job correctly you need to pull that head with the manifold attached. The reason why is because you will probably break 3 out of 4 of the top bolts when removing the manifold. It's always a great idea to surface the exhaust face of the head anytime it's off. Have your replacement manifold surfaced as well.
That drilled hole is for the choke stove.
I’m prepared to pull motor and completely take apart at this point. I was considering putting Headers. If I’m making a list of what I need to get what would be on it… for context I have never even changed the oil on a car until I got this, for every 1 Hour of work iv did about 5 Hours of research.
 
I’m prepared to pull motor and completely take apart at this point. I was considering putting Headers. If I’m making a list of what I need to get what would be on it… for context I have never even changed the oil on a car until I got this, for every 1 Hour of work iv did about 5 Hours of research.
Oh my goodness. You have a very large learning curve ahead but an education you will never forget. First step is to get a shop manual and go step by step. You can't pay for an education you are venturing into.
 
Does the engine have any other issues? Oil pressure good? How about smoking?
 
Does the engine have any other issues? Oil pressure good? How about smoking?
 
Does the engine have any other issues? Oil pressure good? How about smoking?
Not currently running but before it didn’t have any smoking issues when I started it the other Day it was blowing white while I had it running but I never even got it running to the point it would idle, going to put all the new parts on this weekend and see if I can’t get it idleing at least and I’ll order whatever is needed exhaust manifold or headers when I actually figure out what I’m going to go with.
 
Oh my goodness. You have a very large learning curve ahead but an education you will never forget. First step is to get a shop manual and go step by step. You can't pay for an education you are venturing into.
LOL I got the Shop Manual + the Wiring diagram manual + engine manual + Body/Interior Manual. The specific 66 T-Birds and then I got the FE390 build Mag + performance mag. I don’t do anything until I know what I’m doing & have all the stuff to do it with some kind of information to follow. As frustrating as meeting those criteria are I figured it would lesson my ability to screw stuff up.
 
LOL I got the Shop Manual + the Wiring diagram manual + engine manual + Body/Interior Manual. The specific 66 T-Birds and then I got the FE390 build Mag + performance mag. I don’t do anything until I know what I’m doing & have all the stuff to do it with some kind of information to follow. As frustrating as meeting those criteria are I figured it would lesson my ability to screw stuff up.
Well, you passed the first test; curiosity, Second test, documentation, third test which wasn't mentioned is a basic understanding of mechanics and engineering when it comes to removing and replacing 'stuff'.
 
Well, you passed the first test; curiosity, Second test, documentation, third test which wasn't mentioned is a basic understanding of mechanics and engineering when it comes to removing and replacing 'stuff'.
Yeah I’m fairly confident I can handle which is why I’m going straight to pulling motor. I was real young when I completely checked out from messing with cars bc it was a dictatorship where even asking questions was met with anger and I genuinely thought working on cars was like a art where you just tried n rigging it up anyway that would work & probably 50% of the time it ended up way worse then before and the other half it would work you just had to do this for example I had a 94 convertible corvette with flip up lights and you had to get out and flip every time. I mean I went through welding school and worked on the road pipe welding for a few years so when I actually made an effort to learn about fixing cars i was shocked at the simplicity and stuff I thought was so complicated which is why it cost so much was nothing but how long and how much labor it took. The most difficult part of it all is just simply having too many options leading to not making any choice. Which is why I’m considering hiring someone to just do that part and just tell me what to go with cause knowing I know nothing and need to be done right but also the best price I don’t think i can do it lol
 
You definitely have the skills and a desire to learn. Yes it's a different medium but I also farm out jobs beyond my jack stand ability and especially if it involves messy fluids and no proper catch basins. Oil changes excepted.
As you learned, 'let's give it a try' sometimes works and sometimes not, but the learning experience is invaluable. Knowing where to get help if it's beyond your knowledge base is far from being a failure and can work at your own pace and comfort level.
As you have also learned, Knowledge is worth Mucho $ while turning wrenches under stress is not fun.
 
I had the same problem on my 66. Spray the bolts with rust spray and let it sit overnight. Spray them again the next day and started with the top ones first. As them start to come out if they get hard to turn stop and spray again. Then turn them clockwise a little bit and then loosen. Keep doing this with all the bolts and you may have the luck I had, nothing broke. You have to remove the stater and the manifold will come out. Clean the head with a flat file and buy some remflex exhaust gaskets. They are graphite and will take up any imperfections. Buy new grade 5 bolts and coat them in anti-seize. Do not use lock washers because they will fail with heat. Use Nord-lock washers. It can be done in the car.
 
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