Spring is a highly anticipated season for classic car owners. They’ve been checking in on our hibernating vehicles and maybe even starting them up and listening to them purr. Now, as the end of winter arrives, it’s time to get our babies ready for the road. However, spring can bring unexpected maintenance issues stemming from the way a car was stored.
If you’ve read my article on storing your car for the winter, you know that I caution classic car owners against starting their cars engines and letting them run for a few minutes during winter months. There are a lot of people who have this idea that they’ll go out there and crank the car every couple of weeks, let it run for a couple of minutes and then turn it off. In my opinion, that’s the worst thing you can do. The engine’s cold and you’ll get fuel dilution, blow-by and moisture in the crankcase, and if you only run it for a few minutes those few minutes of run time isn’t long enough for the engine to get warm enough to evaporate all of that stuff out.
Change the oil, unless…
Under the proper circumstances, oil can sit in an engine for six months and still be drivable. To help you decide whether an oil change is necessary after your car has been stored, consider to these three situations:
- If you’ve been starting the car while in storage, change the oil.
- If you didn’t change the oil when you put it in storage, change the oil.
- If you put in fresh oil when you stored the vehicle, don’t change the oil.
Check all the fluid levels and note whether any fluids appear dirty. If your car has been stored for a year or more, you will want to drain and flush all fluids.
Draining the
gas tank tends to be a topic of debate, but if your vehicle was only stored over the winter months and was winterized properly with a
fuel stabilizer, this shouldn’t be a big worry.
If the car has been sitting for an extended period of time, you may want to bleed the brakes to purge the system of any water or impurities. At the very least, make sure the brake
master cylinder is full of fluid. If the fluid is low, there may be a leak somewhere. Before you put the pedal to the metal, make sure that your brakes are firm and in working order, and don’t forget to check the operation of the parking brake!
Check for leaks around the engine bay and underneath the car. Sometimes temperature fluctuations can affect seals and gaskets.
- Examine all of the belts and hoses closely. If there are any cracks, swelling, fraying or any leaks from the hoses, get a replacement. Even if a belt or hose looks borderline it should be replaced. Summertime heat and humidity fluctuations may leave you stranded on the side of the road.
- Examine your battery connections: If your battery was kept in the engine compartment, winter weather could have caused corrosion on the connections. If the posts are dirty, remove the cables, negative cable first, and then clean them up with a wire brush by using a mix of baking soda and water. When that is complete, make sure the battery is charged and keep it in warm area until you are ready to drive.
- Take a look at the air filter, does it need replacing? A clean filter allows the engine (and you) to breathe easy.
- Check tire pressure and keep an eye out for any flat spots, worn tread or dry rot. If either of these are found, you might want to consider replacing your tires for optimum safety and handling.
- Bulbs burn out over time, so check your brake lights, turn signals, headlights and running lights. If you don’t have someone to stand outside of the vehicle to help you check, a good way to do it on your own is by backing up against a wall to see the light reflect. Of course, this is easiest to do if it is dark.
- I recommended giving all suspension joints, bushing and pivot points a look-over. Inspect the rubber for any cracks, splits or deterioration. They should be soft and flexible to the touch; any hardened boots will crack. While you are under there, check the shocks for any signs of fluid leaks, and if there are leaks, replace them.
- This next one is a given that I probably don’t have to mention, because if you are like me, you are just itching for nice enough weather to detail your car! But it is important to keep your interior and exterior clean and refreshed. A good wash and wax will make your ride shine as bright as your smile on the first driving day.
- Last but not least is perhaps the most commonly forgotten detail; Review your paperwork and make sure your insurance and registration are up to date before taking her back on the road.
All good? Then you are ready for the driving season! Remember, when you first start ‘er up, don't rev the engine. Cold oil doesn’t flow as well, and putting the pedal down too early could cause bearing and cylinder damage. Instead, let the engine idle until it reaches operating temperature. A shorter 30-minute drive is recommended to start; this will loosen everything up and evaporate any moisture in the exhaust and engine.
doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
