1964 Wrong Brake Booster?

[64Tbird.Birds3]

Had a shop complete a complete brake job including booster, master cylinder, new drums, and cylinder and springs.
I have good vacuum and the brakes function - but's it like I do not have "power brakes".
Any suggestions?

I think they used a wrong booster - I inspected it before install and it looked the same with the exception of the back which had a "stepped" housing.
Diameter, length and connections were identical.
2nd question - can anyone post a pic of theirs.....and or the correct part number please.
Worst part is they returned the original - which had brake fluid in it.

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[biddle]

If you want more reponses you need a good title. "1964 Brake Booster" could be anything. Updated.

 

[74 Harley]

I think first you need to check your engine for vacuum leaks.
Secondly, go back to the shop that did the work and let them know you are not happy!.

 

[BigClay]

I believe Ford used two different boosters in 1964. (Two different suppliers/manufactures). The master cylinder would fit on either. I don’t think it matters which one you use, but as stated in a previous response, make sure you have adequate vacuum to the unit. Once on my ‘64, my brakes felt like they quit working. I discovered that the “check valve” on the booster had two hose connections. (A “Y” type fitting). One connection is used and the other has a “cap”. Well, I discovered that the cap fell off and was causing a major vacuum leak. Once I replaced the cap, everything worked great.

 

[Maxx_basher]

Hi all. I have exactly the same problem. Had my booster reconditioned but still no good. After driving it for 1/2hour or so the booster starts working and continues to work until we stop and turn off. If I leave it for a few hours we are back to no boosted brakes. We are still thinking it’s the booster. When applying the brakes you can hear a release of air from around the rear of the booster next to the firewall. Some where along the way that noise stops and the brakes work. Like a sticky valve or something. Frustrated and confused. Cheers

 

[74 Harley]

Clean or replace the check valve going into the booster. Also replace the vacuum supply line to booster, make sure you get the correct vacuum line.

 

[Maxx_basher]

Thank you. I’m hoping to get through the next year with out any more large investments so they seem like my type of checks. Thanks again

 

[64Tbird.Birds3]

I want thank everyone for responding.
It looks like the new (rebuilt) master cylinder has failed. A new one is being shipped & I’ll have it Monday…..will update the thread once installed.

 

[64Tbird.Birds3]

Update. Nothing we can do on the brakes to acuate the Booster.
I have low vacuum 15" HG and low compression on the engine.
Strange the motor doesn't run ....or idle bad....just no vacuum or power nor smoke from the exhaust.

Going to investigate an engine / head rebuild.
This sucks.
She's a beautiful car with great interior...I did not do my due diligence.
Always measure compression and manifold vacuum.
I'm an idiot.

 

[74 Harley]

Number 4&7 are the cylinders that typically burn valves. Another issue can be if the engine has been worked on before do not use the cork end seals for the intake manifold. Toss them and use a bead of black rtv. They can contribute to a large vacuum leak.
You are not an idiot, you just fell in love with a pretty car... We've all done that before....

 

[64Tbird.Birds3]

I truly….. hope it’s the valves.
Doing a leak down test weds

 

[74 Harley]

So if you are going to pull the heads, let me give you some advice.
1. When you remove the rocker arm shafts pay close attention to the bolts. Each shaft has a special bolt that allows for the oil to enter the shaft. Don't get them mixed up.
2. Remove the heads with exhaust manifolds attached.
Once you have the exhaust manifolds off, have the exhaust face of the head surfaced. Do the manifolds too.
3. If you plan on keeping the car for some time or driving a fair amount have hardened exhaust seats put in.
4. While you are in there, do the timing chain and water pump.