1964 which to install first the engine or the transmission?

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stevetheweave1

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Oct 5, 2020
Thunderbird Year
1964
Installing transmission and engine together would be optimal but not safely realistic for my Harbor Freight engine sling. The engine is a long block with water pump, fuel pump, crank pullies, oil filter housing and exhaust manifolds. Any install tips would be appreciated as to which order of install would be easiest. I am fortunate in that car is on a hydraulic lift. I have two means of lifting one is adjustable trolley (not sure of good engine attach points) other is lift plate that attaches to intake manifold in place of carburetor. I am having nightly dreams of installing motor and it turns into a beached whale I am trying to roll back into the ocean and it rolls over me! Guess I will make an appointment with my psychic next week. lol Happy Easter.
 
Much faster and easier to install both at the same time. Remove the crossmember that the transmission sits on and put it in at an angle and then put a jack under the transmission and lower the unit into place. Install crossmember and then install motor mounts.
 
Since you don't think your sling will handle the weight, install the engine first. Use the plate that bolts onto the intake manifold, they work well. Good luck sir!
 
Installing transmission and engine together would be optimal but not safely realistic for my Harbor Freight engine sling. The engine is a long block with water pump, fuel pump, crank pullies, oil filter housing and exhaust manifolds. Any install tips would be appreciated as to which order of install would be easiest. I am fortunate in that car is on a hydraulic lift. I have two means of lifting one is adjustable trolley (not sure of good engine attach points) other is lift plate that attaches to intake manifold in place of carburetor. I am having nightly dreams of installing motor and it turns into a beached whale I am trying to roll back into the ocean and it rolls over me! Guess I will make an appointment with my psychic next week. lol Happy Easter.
It is very hard for an inexperienced person to install the engine and transmission at the same time in your TBird. This is because you cant remove the radiator support, and the eng/trans has to be raised high and sharply tilted to slide in. As mentioned, install engine first, but keep it supported. Then borrow or rent a trans Jack and slide trans in from underneath. It can be done by lifting, but your cast iron Cruise o Matic is very heavy. (Don’t try it alone).
 
Big Clay you are right about the radiator brace and install angle. Another question I have is why did Ford put studs on the torque converter instead of using bolts. This system is so much harder to engage into fly wheel all at one time. A friend of mine told me that he thought the torque converter could be turned and slid back out of the way so the studs would not even touch the fly wheel and when transmission is installed torque converter can be slid forward to engage four studs, is that info true?
 
This isn't that hard Steve, I normally align the holes in the flex plate in a clock position of 12,3,6,9, and set the torque converter the same way. As you get it close just watch and make sure the studs align. Once you get the bolts in the bell housing roll the engine by hand one revolution to make sure there's no binding before putting the nuts on the torque converter.
And no, the torque converter will not push back far enough to disengage the flex plate.
 
Big Clay you are right about the radiator brace and install angle. Another question I have is why did Ford put studs on the torque converter instead of using bolts. This system is so much harder to engage into fly wheel all at one time. A friend of mine told me that he thought the torque converter could be turned and slid back out of the way so the studs would not even touch the fly wheel and when transmission is installed torque converter can be slid forward to engage four studs, is that info true?
Mr Harley below has said it correctly. Get flex plate and converter set with studs at 12/3/6 & 9 o’clock. Make sure the converter is pushed in all the way. DO NOT pull it forward to engage studs. Don’t know why Ford did it that way. Yes, bolts would be easier and having an inspection cover would have been better, too. (To allow use of a flywheel turner). But it’s the way it is. After you do it a few times, it gets easier. DONT tighten Trans to Engine bolts until everything is aligned together. Otherwise you might crack trans flange.
 
Ok, let me tell you this. I have installed the engine and transmission together (by myself) in my '61 bird. It's not as hard as it looks. What I did was to put the front end up on jack stands, if I remember correctly about 16" is all you need. You can rent an engine leveling bar( and a good cherry picker if needed) pretty cheap. Make sure you have the exhaust manifolds installed.
A good floor jack is also required.
One more note leave the starter off.
It will surprise you how easy it will go together, the required angle is not as bad as you may think.
I'll be doing my '62 this summer, and it will go in all at once. Good luck, and keep us posted.
 
Harley thank you I am measuring engine tranny combo and front crank length makes it look like it will be very tight squeeze. Your 62 may be a bird of a different color (pun intended) and is very likely not impossible as you have done it. My trailblazer days are over and I like the safe long way home. Big Clay looks like you have the same frame as mine can you clue me in on how many of the accessories I can put on the front end of motor and still be able to install motor by itself. I have A/C. Thanks guys for your help.
 
Believe it or not a '64 has a little bit more room. I have pulled several out complete from '64-'66. I don't recommend installing the front accessories because it makes it a little more difficult to see how things line up. It also depends on wether you have any help. Most of the time I have done my cars solo.
So when you are lowering the whole assembly in, once the tailshaft has made it in the tunnel you lower until it almost hits the ground, then start cranking the tilt bar until it almost hits the top of the tunnel. Lower some more and push the whole assembly in. Once you're close put the floor jack under the trans pan(a small piece of plywood or 2x4 helps to prevent dents here) and lower engine into the mounts. Then install trans crossmember. Start bolting it up because you're done.
 
Harley thank you I am measuring engine tranny combo and front crank length makes it look like it will be very tight squeeze. Your 62 may be a bird of a different color (pun intended) and is very likely not impossible as you have done it. My trailblazer days are over and I like the safe long way home. Big Clay looks like you have the same frame as mine can you clue me in on how many of the accessories I can put on the front end of motor and still be able to install motor by itself. I have A/C. Thanks guys for your help.
I don’t have air, but I do have Sanderson Headers, and I’ve installed the engine complete with headers installed. To be safe, no carb, no distributor, and of course: no radiator.
leave off the starter and alternator, too.
 
on my 64 I put in a c-6 trasmission out of a 66. moved it back 3 inches. then I set motor stright down to it. make sure converter is shoved all the way in transmission. I had all the assc. on motor. starter was off I think.
 
I pulled this one in the beginning of September, this is the motor for my convertible. Just to show it can be done.
 

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