1964 Thunderbird eBay Purchase - Rust concerns

[Shadrack]

Overall I am extremely happy with my purchase, clean underneath. However, how serious does this rust look? How would you guys tackle it? I need to protect the car. Right now it is in the garage but might be outside some. Tools, methods, trim removal suggestions all welcome.

Hope this is right, here is the link:

https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com/thunderbird-photos/albums/ebay-64-bird-arrives-and-rust.521/

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[40birds]

Where I would be concerned with rust is shock towers, the entire underbody, trunk pan, etc. since these are unibody, any rust you are showing in the pictures is on the surface. You’ll need to look beneath it to see where it is starting from. By the way I’ve dealt with much worse than your showing. A lot will depend on your plans for the car and most importantly your budget.

 

[Shadrack]

Where I would be concerned with rust is shock towers, the entire underbody, trunk pan, etc. since these are unibody, any rust you are showing in the pictures is on the surface. You’ll need to look beneath it to see where it is starting from. By the way, I’ve dealt with much worse than your showing. A lot will depend on your plans for the car and most importantly your budget.

I think it is surface and not a big deal, but I work about it being in those door seams - I guess I need to take off the panel and some of the trim. Is there a good manual that should how to take off the trim - I don't want to break it!

After sanding it, how would you guys suggest prepping and what type of primer holds up to weather. I read all this stuff about using POR 15 and epoxy primers - but some say not to use an epoxy primer.

 

[64ZCODE]

There is a TBird restoration manual you can find online, plus a lot of practical nitty gritty experience from the guys on this forum. To me it's a matter of prioritizing and not letting it get worse. Keeping the car garaged or undercover should halt the progression of rust issues. The areas not adjacent to trim or a seam are the most easy, just sand and prime. For the ones close to trim you can mask and sand up to the trim and prime, but that won't get at the rust under the trim. I've not taken trim off on these cars but there are special tools and methods that make it feasible.

Don, I see a auto body class in your future🙂

Doug

 

[Shadrack]

There is a TBird restoration manual you can find online, plus a lot of practical nitty gritty experience from the guys on this forum. To me it's a matter of prioritizing and not letting it get worse. Keeping the car garaged or undercover should halt the progression of rust issues. The areas not adjacent to trim or a seam are the most easy, just sand and prime. For the ones close to trim you can mask and sand up to the trim and prime, but that won't get at the rust under the trim. I've not taken trim off on these cars but there are special tools and methods that make it feasible.

Don, I see a auto body class in your future🙂

Doug

Either an auto body class or my wallet might need some CPR LMAO! I can handle the smaller stuff, but I am concerned over the stuff behind the trim. Right now, she is sitting in a garage so she is safe.

 

[64ZCODE]

What you need is something like a big wood🙂

 

[Shadrack]

What you need is something like a big wood🙂

🙂 🙂 LMAO

 

[fordrodsteven]

After sanding it, how would you guys suggest prepping and what type of primer holds up to weather. I read all this stuff about using POR 15 and epoxy primers - but some say not to use an epoxy primer.

I recommend against using POR15 unless everything is perfectly ready for final paint coat. POR15 gets very hard, almost crystalline, after setting up and hardening. It will be very difficult to sand it to get a good base finish for painting. Epoxy primers have come along since these cars were originally built and are a vast improvement on the older primers. You can spray an epoxy primer directly onto clean metal and it will help prevent rusting under the primer. The old primers are very porous and a car will rust underneath a coat of the primer if you don't apply paint within a fairly short period of time. The epoxy primer will last a good bit longer. The only thing is if you wait a while to paint after priming you will have to scuff the epoxy primer before applying another quick shot of primer and paint. Another good thing about epoxy primer is that it readily will take any work you decide to do (weld, body filler, filler primers) once it is applied. You won't have that advantage if you shoot it with POR15.

 

[Shadrack]

I recommend against using POR15 unless everything is perfectly ready for final paint coat. POR15 gets very hard, almost crystalline, after setting up and hardening. It will be very difficult to sand it to get a good base finish for painting. Epoxy primers have come along since these cars were originally built and are a vast improvement on the older primers. You can spray an epoxy primer directly onto clean metal and it will help prevent rusting under the primer. The old primers are very porous and a car will rust underneath a coat of the primer if you don't apply paint within a fairly short period of time. The epoxy primer will last a good bit longer. The only thing is if you wait a while to paint after priming you will have to scuff the epoxy primer before applying another quick shot of primer and paint. Another good thing about epoxy primer is that it readily will take any work you decide to do (weld, body filler, filler primers) once it is applied. You won't have that advantage if you shoot it with POR15.

GREAT! Any epoxy primers you guys recommend...maybe aerosol?

 

[fordrodsteven]

GREAT! Any epoxy primers you guys recommend...maybe aerosol?

You should check out Eastwood products and technical help / instruction videos. The only other thing I recommend is that you decide where to buy and what final paint you are going to use first then get compatible brands / formulas of primer, body fillers, etc. If you go to a local auto paint supply store they can keep everything within a family of compatible products for you. If you decide to go with Eastwood products (or any other company / brand for that matter) you need to ensure that the products are compatible. The Eastwood technical department will help with any questions if decide to go with them.

 

[64ZCODE]

For the body surface rust, I'd be for doing something easy that would quell the concern about the rust progressing without repainting the car (which you probably would like to do, just not right now). If you just sand the rusted areas and get some primer on it, then that'll stop the rust for now. Doesn't have to be perfect. Then you can pry up some of the trim pieces and see how much the rust extends underneath and what if anything needs to be done.

 

[Shadrack]

For the body surface rust, I'd be for doing something easy that would quell the concern about the rust progressing without repainting the car (which you probably would like to do, just not right now). If you just sand the rusted areas and get some primer on it, then that'll stop the rust for now. Doesn't have to be perfect. Then you can pry up some of the trim pieces and see how much the rust extends underneath and what if anything needs to be done.

I think this is what I will do - makes the most sense for now. Thank you all. I am going to start working on the mechanics and get this thing in my name. Lots to do🙂