These
wiring harnesses typically
only have wiring for a basic car.
If your Thunderbird has power windows, power top, AC, power seats, speed control,
you will have to make your own wiring or adapt the original for these circuits.
Plan on at least 40 hours for this job, more likely 80-120 hours.
Watch YouTube videos on rewiring cars like a 1965 Mustang to get a feel for the job.
Read and re-read the installation instructions.
Note that this harness is color-coded for GM cars. Fords use a different color code scheme.
This harness has a GM turn signal switch connector - for use with a horn relay. The switch grounds the horn relay.
The Ford turn signal switch is color-coded differently. It also uses a horn relay, but the
switch powers the horn relay.
Use LED taillights as most GM harnesses are 18ga - not sized to supply 6 brake lights. Or change to 14ga.
Purchase a good quality crimping tool - not the auto
parts store variety
1. Obtain a 1964 Thunderbird
wiring diagram manual for schematic details.
2. Obtain a 1964 Electrical Assembly Manual for harness routing location.
3. Disassemble the interior: remove console, rear seat, and carpet.
Take many, many, many pictures so that reassembly is easier.
Label everything!
4. Carefully remove the old harness. Layout on garage floor.
5. Save every connector and clip when removing the original harness.
These kits do not come with factory style connectors!
You will need to butt crimp the new wiring onto pigtails made from the original connectors.
6. Purchase new Ford clips to hold the harnesses in place - none are provided. The old ones will break.
7. Plan on purchasing new connectors to separate the front harness, main harness, and taillight harnesses.
One possibility is to use .093" Molex connector pins and shells. They come in 1,2,3,4,6,9, and 12 circuit versions.
These separate circuits make it easier to install the harness or remove for repair.
8. Fords use .180" diameter connectors.
Napa may have some individual pins available to crimp onto the new wires.
Mouser sells the
OEM-style .180 male and female crimp connector pins. A special tool is required.
9. Layout new harness next to old harness. Cut and splice transfer connectors as necessary.
Match the wire lengths to the old harness.
Crimp and solder each connection. Use heat shrink tubing to protect splices.
Document everything so the next owner can figure out what was done!
10. Test each circuit using a self-powered test light.
11. Wrap the entire harness with non-adhesive harness tape for protection when pulling the harness through the car.
12. Reassembly the new harness into your car.
13. Test each circuit one at a time by removing the other fuses.
