1962 pulls hard right when braking | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1962 pulls hard right when braking

  • Thread starter Thread starter ricoflan
  • Start date Start date
ricoflan
Reaction score
2
Thunderbird Year
1962
Have a '62 Coupe. Took over someone else's project car (joy!). Trying to sort out a problem now and would love if someone could share their insights. Car goes straight down the road, but when the brakes are applied, it pulls hard right. I suspected worn suspension components. Got the front end of the ground and you can wiggle the right wheel to the left or right a couple of inches. Any recommendations on where I should focus my energies to confirm the problem and get a fix going? 3 views attached -- side, looking backwards, looking forward. TIA

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Is it worse when the brakes are cold? Have you seen any improvement the longer you drive the car?

May be a leaking brake cylinder. That’ll saturate the brake shoe and cause it to grab onto the drum. Take that wheel and drum off and see if it’s wet with brake fluid.

Reason for the first question is that sometimes if it’s only a slight leak the first couple times after a cold drive it’ll grab but then improve as the brake warms up and cooks some of the fluid out of the shoe.
 
Thanks, AlphaWray!
I see no difference whether warm or cold, and the amount of the pull doesn't seem to be related to how hard I brake, but it does seem to vary according to my speed -- part of the reason I suspected suspension components. Will pull the wheel and take a look. Need to get in there anyways
 
You or someone capable, check the tie rod ends for play . There are several to check. If one is that bad don’t drive the car, you could loose control.
 
The first thing that you need to do is replace the rubber brake lines. All 3 of them. Then check or replace the wheel cylinders. When doing ball joints do both at the same time, preferably left and right at the same time.
Another issue that will cause this is brakes being out of adjustment. A check of your slack adjusters is also warranted.
 
Looks like the original ball joints are in place, so joy of joys, the upper at least is riveted in. Any “been there done that “ advice on how best to break those loose without doing damage? TIA
 
Have a '62 Coupe. Took over someone else's project car (joy!). Trying to sort out a problem now and would love if someone could share their insights. Car goes straight down the road, but when the brakes are applied, it pulls hard right. I suspected worn suspension components. Got the front end of the ground and you can wiggle the right wheel to the left or right a couple of inches. Any recommendations on where I should focus my energies to confirm the problem and get a fix going? 3 views attached -- side, looking backwards, looking forward. TIA
Hi, First thing to suspect is Left wheel cylinder may be frozen. Not saying you don't have suspension issues, Those need to be addressed. Carefully check the idler arm at the right frame rail. It should not have any up and down movement. Good luck.
 
Have a '62 Coupe. Took over someone else's project car (joy!). Trying to sort out a problem now and would love if someone could share their insights. Car goes straight down the road, but when the brakes are applied, it pulls hard right. I suspected worn suspension components. Got the front end of the ground and you can wiggle the right wheel to the left or right a couple of inches. Any recommendations on where I should focus my energies to confirm the problem and get a fix going? 3 views attached -- side, looking backwards, looking forward. TIA
Getting the front end tight is important but probably not causeing the pull. I;m thing you left wheel cylinder is frozen. If that's the case, change both wheel cylinder's.
 
Have a '62 Coupe. Car goes straight down the road, but when the brakes are applied, it pulls hard right. Got the front end of the ground and you can wiggle the right wheel to the left or right a couple of inches. Any recommendations on where I should focus my energies to confirm the problem and get a fix going?
if the ball joints are riveted they’re original. You’ll need to drill out the rivets to remove. The new ball joints will come with nuts & bolts. My experience working in a service station in the late 60s/early 70s is lower ball joints wear out much more frequently than upper. Always replace uppers or lowers as a pair. But by now both upper and lower could be bad. Did you test them? Simple to do with a block of wood (or a brick) and a prybar. You should also test the inner and outer tie rod ends, but you’ll need a helper. If you’re going to replace all the front suspension as part of the restoration you can skip the testing and just dive in. Don’t forget the upper and lower control arm bushings. I’ve had bad upper control arm bushings cause hard pulling while braking. Heat from the exhaust manifold fries the rubber in them.
The suggestions on flex hoses and wheel cylinders is spot on as well. Remember pulling right doesn’t necessarily mean the issue is on the right.
 
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