1962 Convertible - Problem Locking Deck Lid with Top Down

kbuhagiar

kbuhagiar

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Thunderbird Year
1962
Hello Folks,

I have spent hours trying to figure this one out, to no avail, so I'm tossing it to the experts...

On my 1962 Convertible, when the top is up (erected) the deck lid closes and locks with no problem; after a few seconds of the screws tightening I get the ratcheting sound. However, when the top is down (retracted) the deck lid locking action is more labored, and although the deck lid fully closes I can never get it to the point where the locks ratchet.

The extended flip lid doesn't seem to be causing any interference on the body, but I have noticed that the gap between the closed deck lid and the body is just a shade bigger when the top is down -is it possible that something on the underside of deck lid is hanging up on the stacked top? I did a cursory examination of the surfaces and can't see any possible interference points.

Any chance anyone on board here has dealt with sort of issue before, and can suggest where I might examine the components to confirm or deny this theory? Or perhaps offer another explanation for this?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Hello Folks,

I have spent hours trying to figure this one out, to no avail, so I'm tossing it to the experts...

On my 1962 Convertible, when the top is up (erected) the deck lid closes and locks with no problem; after a few seconds of the screws tightening I get the ratcheting sound. However, when the top is down (retracted) the deck lid locking action is more labored, and although the deck lid fully closes I can never get it to the point where the locks ratchet.

The extended flip lid doesn't seem to be causing any interference on the body, but I have noticed that the gap between the closed deck lid and the body is just a shade bigger when the top is down -is it possible that something on the underside of deck lid is hanging up on the stacked top? I did a cursory examination of the surfaces and can't see any possible interference points.

Any chance anyone on board here has dealt with sort of issue before, and can suggest where I might examine the components to confirm or deny this theory? Or perhaps offer another explanation for this?

Thanks in advance!
My first question is, is the top interfering with the deck lid? Are there limit switches on closing, if so they may need adjusting to get it to drop another 1/2". I know If I don't stow my top carefully it hits the back of the seat.
 
At first glance I cannot see any points where the top may be interfering with the underside of the deck lid, but that doesn't mean that it isn't. I need to check that more thoroughly.

I can guarantee that the top is folding all the way down onto the trunk, as it leaves a visible impression on the trunk mat pad, so the limit switch is not an issue.
 
At first glance I cannot see any points where the top may be interfering with the underside of the deck lid, but that doesn't mean that it isn't. I need to check that more thoroughly.

I can guarantee that the top is folding all the way down onto the trunk, as it leaves a visible impression on the trunk mat pad, so the limit switch is not an issue.
The hunt continues. What is the difference when the top is up verses down? Ok Columbo, you have a fun investigation.
 
On the flipper panel there are 2 limit switches. One for the top erected that sounds like it is set correctly and one for when when the top is lowered. IIRC the switch is located on the passenger side of the trunk lid. This MIGHT be the issue, but there are so many moving parts and old relays and dirty points that need testing. If you don't have a shop manual don't start poking around.
 
On the flipper panel there are 2 limit switches. One for the top erected that sounds like it is set correctly and one for when when the top is lowered. IIRC the switch is located on the passenger side of the trunk lid. This MIGHT be the issue, but there are so many moving parts and old relays and dirty points that need testing. If you don't have a shop manual don't start poking around.

Thanks for that.

I have all the shop and top manuals. I feel like I have them memorized at this point. I also acquired the convertible top manuals for the 64-66 Bird and the Lincolns, just to see if there were any additional information or insights on adjustments (not really).

All limit switches and relays are adjusted and functioning correctly. The flipper panel completely folds into its retracted position, snug against the foam block cushions, and when erected is perfectly flush to the deck lid.

I'm away from the car for a week, but when I get back I will just micro-examine for any possible interference points, as I can't see any other reason for the deck lid to lock so well (locks ratchets nicely) with top up but struggle (locks will not ratchet) with the top down. And to be perfectly honest I could probably live with it that way but I would rather have it correct.
 
Thanks for that.

I have all the shop and top manuals. I feel like I have them memorized at this point. I also acquired the convertible top manuals for the 64-66 Bird and the Lincolns, just to see if there were any additional information or insights on adjustments (not really).

All limit switches and relays are adjusted and functioning correctly. The flipper panel completely folds into its retracted position, snug against the foam block cushions, and when erected is perfectly flush to the deck lid.

I'm away from the car for a week, but when I get back I will just micro-examine for any possible interference points, as I can't see any other reason for the deck lid to lock so well (locks ratchets nicely) with top up but struggle (locks will not ratchet) with the top down. And to be perfectly honest I could probably live with it that way but I would rather have it correct.
It sounds like the screws can't get a bite when the top is down so you won't get the ratchet effect. I still think the top is not folding all the way and not cradling when down. With the top down and the deck lid still up, cover the top with newspaper or tin foil and then lower the deck lid and see if something indents the covering when lowering the deck. You say the lower mounts look like it's resting correctly It's the only thing I can think of. Check how the top folds and nothing else interferes with the last portion not settling enough. It's the same with my manual top.
 
It sounds like the screws can't get a bite when the top is down so you won't get the ratchet effect. I still think the top is not folding all the way and not cradling when down. With the top down and the deck lid still up, cover the top with newspaper or tin foil and then lower the deck lid and see if something indents the covering when lowering the deck. You say the lower mounts look like it's resting correctly It's the only thing I can think of. Check how the top folds and nothing else interferes with the last portion not settling enough. It's the same with my manual top.

Brilliant! I like the tinfoil idea, I've been trying to think of something to use to detect interference. I'll try that when I get back home next week.
 
Hello Folks,

Last summer I finished installing the new trunk kit and started 'blueprinting' the convertible top operation. It was working extremely well but was still a bit fiddly with regard to the deck lid locks. I knew it would take few hours to sort it and I finally had the time yesterday and today, and after much tweaking I have the top and deck operation close to perfect.

I am curious about a couple of things. First off, as best as I can determine, when everything is adjusted properly the deck lid locks should 'ratchet' when the deck lid is fully closed. In my instance, they ratchet when the top is erect, albeit slowly. When the top is stowed and the flipper panel is deployed I can get the deck lid to what I think is a fully closed position but I can't seem to get the locks to ratchet. It's as if the locks have to work harder and overcome more resistance when the flipper panel is engaged. I'm afraid to keep engaging the power in an effort to close the lid further as I don't want to break anything, but right now I'm OK with that because the deck lid seems to be fully closed.

So what gives? I can't help but think that the flipper panel has something to do with it. I've also noticed that the front edge of the flipper panel (behind the seat) will angle up slightly immediately after the deck lid is seated, but will then settle back down in a few seconds. It's as if it is tightening up against the deck lid weather stripping and then as the weather stripping relaxes, the front edge comes back down.

Again, based on how difficult it can be to get these tops to work right I'm pleased as punch it works this well, but I'm always wondering if I can make it better, so I have a few questions for the other members with convertibles (or experience thereof):

(1) Do your deck lid locks 'ratchet' when the deck is fully closed? With the top both erect and stowed? And if so, do they ratchet quickly (about two or three clicks per second) or slowly (one click or less per second)?
(2) With the top stowed does your deck lid sit down in the closed position as well as it does with the top erect? And with the top in the stowed position and deck lid fully closed does the front of your flipper panel sit flush with the body?
(3) If in fact the flipper panel is causing this added resistance to the deck locking process, what should I look for? Are there any adjustments to minimize the resistance?

Sorry for the long post, but I have become fascinated (or maybe obsessed) with the Thunderbird convertible top mechanisms and am proud of the progress I have made on mine so far.

Thanks in advance for any information and observations.

UPDATE:

It took me over a year to follow up on Ward 57s suggestion (life got in the way), but I finally checked for interference using some tinfoil on top of the top. No interference indicated.

As I mentioned in my new thread, the top is otherwise working so well that I am going to call it a day.

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions.
 
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