1961 veering to right under braking

[tbird.blue]

All backing plate bosses have been smoothed out and greased. All new, quality retracting springs installed. Still veering to the right under braking. I then installed a new right front wheel cylinder as the one just recently installed seemed to be hanging up.
All drum temperatures seem reasonable:
LF 145 RF 160
LR 137 RR 153

But I still have the veer to the right when braking. I re-examined the suspension movement while pulling down on the bumper. The left side hardly moves while the right side has pronounced movement in comparison to the left side. I am believing it is a weak shock absorber on the front right side which may well be causing this. Has anyone else found this condition?

Hello, perhaps swap the shocks over and see if it makes a difference ? They are quite easy to remove. While they are out you could get them tested at a suspension shop on their testing right. I still feel those temperatures are a bit too far out in the differences side to side. I've checked my 63 and I get same temp on rear and maybe 7-10 difference on the front drums. It pulls up straight as. I initially had the same drama as you when I overhauled all the brakes with all new parts, drums skimmed and new linings indexed to drums. no difference , swapped drums side to side, no difference.Still was pulling hard to the left. Turned out one of the "new"wheel cylinders had a very slight crimp or moulding issue in one of the rubber piston seals for the front brakes. The problem appeared to be the 'made in China' part. ( Even though the catalogue said made in USA!) Another two US made cylinders were ordered and fitted and now all good. Very frustrating ?

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[johnstrow]

Yes, I have been messing with this for quite a while. When I overhauled the brakes (all new parts) when initially bought the car I was sold some poor quality retracting springs; the left rear hung up and got around 200 degrees F. Put all new retracting springs in and improved except the pull to the right. The right front wheel cylinder then showed it was binding up; loose and rough pistons. Replaced that and now that is improved but the veering to the right remains. I will be replacing both front shocks and examining them forensically. IF that has a positive effect I will leave the brakes adjusted as is and see if the more even braking might result in more even drum temperatures.

 

[johnstrow]

New front shocks installed; still pulling to the right under braking.
I took a more comprehensive look at the front suspension, looking for something loose; found a somewhat suspicious lower control arm bushing bushing. It seems to be collapsed a bit on one side. I believe that would allow movement under braking, changing suspension geometry.
Maybe that is the next adventure.

 

[johnstrow]

One last attempt at blaming the brakes. I will, as suggested earlier, switch drums/shoes left-to-right to see if the pull follows.

 

[Bob Bowen]

Hi,
Spinning the wheel is a good indicator but not always accurate and reliable for checking brake adjustment.

If the brake system and suspension is in good condition, the pulling problem you describe sounds like the brakes are not adjusted equally on all wheels. The brakes cannot be assessed by spinning the wheel. On the drum brake system, each brake drum must be adjusted to the same amount in order to obtain good braking response. This is done by using a brake spoon tool and turning the star wheel adjuster on each wheel until the brake shoes are expanded all the way out against the brake drum, then back off an equal amount of turns on each wheel. On power brake systems I would back off 10 turns on the star adjuster and manual brake systems back off 6 turns. This method of adjustment produces equal pressure at each wheel and takes the guess work out of the process.

Also, if the brake hoses are new, try to bleed the lines to make sure there is no air trapped in one of the lines that might cause unequal pressure. Look at the color and check for any debris in the fluid that comes out.
Hope this helps

A common cause for brakes pulling one way or another is often curried by having the shoes arched by machining them to match the arch of the drums. My car used to pull badly. Now I can make a hands free stop without pulling,

 

[johnstrow]

@Bob Bowen
When you had the shoes matched to the drums how was that accomplished, a machine shop or did you handle that yourself?

 

[74 Harley]

Can you post some pictures of your car? 3/4 r&l front view. Also make sure your tires are within 2 lbs of each other. Something is going on and I am thinking it's not brakes at this point.
Next up get it on a lift and go over the rear suspension. Pay special attention to the u bolts, spring bushings, shackles and mounts. Especially on the left side. Look hard at the "frame" channel that runs over the rear axle for any sign of damage. When up front look closely at the sub frame mounting points. Especially on the right here.
If everything looks good take it to a good shop and have it put on the rack for a 4 wheel alignment. I'm really thinking your side to side axle spacing may be off.

 

[johnstrow]

Can you post some pictures of your car? 3/4 r&l front view. Also make sure your tires are within 2 lbs of each other. Something is going on and I am thinking it's not brakes at this point.
Next up get it on a lift and go over the rear suspension. Pay special attention to the u bolts, spring bushings, shackles and mounts. Especially on the left side. Look hard at the "frame" channel that runs over the rear axle for any sign of damage. When up front look closely at the sub frame mounting points. Especially on the right here.
If everything looks good take it to a good shop and have it put on the rack for a 4 wheel alignment. I'm really thinking your side to side axle spacing may be off.

OK, thanks.
The tires are within one psi or less.
The left rear sits about one inch lower than the right on a level surface. The left front is about 1/2” lower than the right. All of the leaf spring mountings (by the U bolts) and bushings are looking old; they may well be ready for Social Security. Are you thinking the left side of the rear axle is shifting, causing the right side to dip when braking?

 

[74 Harley]

Yes, I am thinking the rear suspension may be shifting slightly during braking, the left rear going backwards a little. Or there could be damage at the right front from a previous wreck long before you owned the car. That's why I suggested that you put it on a rack. Make sure the side to side spacing is accurate. An eighth to quarter inch off won't really show up when walking around it but you would feel it in the handling.

 

[johnstrow]

Thanks. I suppose I would measure the width of the front and rear tracts as is and compare how the centers of each compare, left to right.

 

[tbird.blue]

Thanks. I suppose I would measure the width of the front and rear tracts as is and compare how the centers of each compare, left to right.

I think you should get the car onto a brake testing machine to see what is happening on each wheel with regards efficiency and then work on getting them adjusted accordingly. The variation in temperature on each wheel is a clue I feel. Good luck

 

[johnstrow]

Prayers answered!
Asked for wisdom; received some here. Asked for patience, steady hands and clarity; done.

Matched the shoes to the drums on both sides in the front and she’s braking straight!
Drum temperatures (degrees F):
LF 155 RF 155
LR 114 RR 112