1957 power window regulator spring

Ward 57

Ward 57

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Thunderbird Year
1957
I finally got my window regulator out in preparation to clean and re-pack the grease in the regulator. It got to the point you had to pull up on the window to get it up. I discovered 1/2 the problem is that the regulator helper spring was broken. I've got new ones on order. The question is, how do you install the new one? Run the regulator up as far as possible so the spring is most relaxed then put some torque on it to get over the tab? Was also advised to put a 'C' clamp over it in case it wants to fly when installing in a general posting.
 

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Sorry I can't assist anymore than this link. https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-window-rail-and-regulator-adjustments.11320/


I have a cracked passenger side window, that I hope to replace soon. Any pics of your work would be greatly appreciated. As well as anyone else's
It's interesting. That's what sent me on this journey. I had a cracked window on my passenger door too. Pulled it and replaced it. Cracked again. The last glass shop didn't recesses the glass far enough into the channel and chipped a corner. I don't know if pics would be of any help, but get a book of wire labels ( even big box stores have them in their electrical section.) and label everything you take off. Especially at the switch. Trying to color code to which terminal could be maddening. Once the door card is off you have to pull the wires off the switch to remove it. Then you can still use it to work the motor for what you need.
 
Finally got the new spring on. Holy moly that spring has lots of tension. The original spring had no protective coating so it wouldn't slide against itself and caused even more friction and finally broke. I wonder how fast it will be when I get it all cleaned up and properly greased.
 
Sorry I can't assist anymore than this link. https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-window-rail-and-regulator-adjustments.11320/


I have a cracked passenger side window, that I hope to replace soon. Any pics of your work would be greatly appreciated. As well as anyone else's
Tater, got the regulator and window back in. new rollers and white lithium grease all over. Re-packed the gear box too. Man I've never seen that window run so fast. Now it's just the stops, new door panel and top panel. If you need any more advice, let me know. I've now earned another 'Been there, done that ' T-shirt.
 
Tater, got the regulator and window back in. new rollers and white lithium grease all over. Re-packed the gear box too. Man I've never seen that window run so fast. Now it's just the stops, new door panel and top panel. If you need any more advice, let me know. I've now earned another 'Been there, done that ' T-shirt.
Thanks Ward. I still haven't been in behind the door panels(or cards) yet. Im very curious to how the glass is removed and replaced, as well as the whiskers. Any idea or pics?
 
Thanks Ward. I still haven't been in behind the door panels(or cards) yet. Im very curious to how the glass is removed and replaced, as well as the whiskers. Any idea or pics?
If you have the shop manual It's pretty basic on the assumption the tech at that time was familiar with the hardware. The hardest problem was pulling the spring clips off the rollers on the scissor. thank heavens I had an angle pick to pull it but I think I used brute force with a brake adjusting too force one off. Order new ones at 3 per door. They are machined and better quality than the original pressed steel.
 
Thanks Ward. I still haven't been in behind the door panels(or cards) yet. Im very curious to how the glass is removed and replaced, as well as the whiskers. Any idea or pics?
As far as the whiskers, It's been a long time, but with the window out they are held on with tiny rivets. Popped the old ones off and just popped in the new ones. The haven't moved in 30 years. may have put an adhesive behind them. The whisker on the door top trim is fastened with staples. I found they are the same size as home staple guns. Popped them trough and bent over the legs. Totally original.
 
Doing the driver's door now. I manually ran the scissors up to the end of the travel and installed the spring. It was a couple of years ago and can't remember if that's the way I did it on the other door. There is some residual tension when all the way up. I'm going to assume that is the way it should be. It did work with the broken spring but slow when cold. I don't want to over tension it. Now to repack the gearbox and reinstall with all new rollers. Has anybody else done this yet?
 
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