1957 power booster brake bleeding process

Boozeman

Boozeman

Active Member
Bronze Member
Last seen
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Thunderbird Year
1957
Good afternoon, all -

Replaced all of the brake lines, hoses, etc., and rebuilt the brake booster. Been trying to get the brakes bled, and I'm not having great results. What is the procedure for bleeding with the power booster? Yes, I have a manual, and it says that when bleeding the brakes on a Thunderbird with the power booster, that a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, but it doesn't say what to do with it after that. I took this to mean that I should bleed the booster first, then bleed each of the other wheels, starting with thee passenger side rear, etc. Am I doing this correctly, or is there some other procedure for getting these brakes bled correctly?
 

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

Boozeman said:
Good afternoon, all -

Replaced all of the brake lines, hoses, etc., and rebuilt the brake booster. Been trying to get the brakes bled, and I'm not having great results. What is the procedure for bleeding with the power booster? Yes, I have a manual, and it says that when bleeding the brakes on a Thunderbird with the power booster, that a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, but it doesn't say what to do with it after that. I took this to mean that I should bleed the booster first, then bleed each of the other wheels, starting with thee passenger side rear, etc. Am I doing this correctly, or is there some other procedure for getting these brakes bled correctly?
Click to expand...
a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, the other end in container so you don't spray fluid over everything when bleeding the booster.
 
Dick Rupp said:
a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, the other end in container so you don't spray fluid over everything when bleeding the booster.
Click to expand...
Thanks fir the reply. Basically, I should just bleed the booster first, then bleed the wheels in the same manner, correct?
 
Honestly I'm not sure. I did my booster 1st than the wheels. Then the booster again. It worked for me.
 
Boozeman said:
Good afternoon, all -

Replaced all of the brake lines, hoses, etc., and rebuilt the brake booster. Been trying to get the brakes bled, and I'm not having great results. What is the procedure for bleeding with the power booster? Yes, I have a manual, and it says that when bleeding the brakes on a Thunderbird with the power booster, that a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, but it doesn't say what to do with it after that. I took this to mean that I should bleed the booster first, then bleed each of the other wheels, starting with thee passenger side rear, etc. Am I doing this correctly, or is there some other procedure for getting these brakes bled correctly?
Click to expand...

I am going to assume you mean the master cylinder, not the booster, correct? If you rebuilt the master, the first thing to do is to bleed the master by attaching a tube/hose from the outlet back into the nearly full reservoir. Then you will be ready to bleed the master by pumping it slowly until you are sure there are no more air bubbles appearing in the reservoir as you pump the peddle. Then connect the brake line and begin to bleed each wheel cylinder starting with the RR, then LR, followed by the RF and finally the LF. I know there are several methods, but I always end up with the simple, pump 3 times, release the bleeder valve; do this pump and release twice before moving on the the next wheel. Keep an eye on your fluid level in the master so it doesn't get too low as you move through each wheel cylinder. Good luck.
 
Boozeman said:
Good afternoon, all -

Replaced all of the brake lines, hoses, etc., and rebuilt the brake booster. Been trying to get the brakes bled, and I'm not having great results. What is the procedure for bleeding with the power booster? Yes, I have a manual, and it says that when bleeding the brakes on a Thunderbird with the power booster, that a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, but it doesn't say what to do with it after that. I took this to mean that I should bleed the booster first, then bleed each of the other wheels, starting with thee passenger side rear, etc. Am I doing this correctly, or is there some other procedure for getting these brakes bled correctly?
Click to expand...
You are doing it correctly. That should bleed the master cylinder on the firewall at the same time.
 
Boozeman said:
Good afternoon, all -

Replaced all of the brake lines, hoses, etc., and rebuilt the brake booster. Been trying to get the brakes bled, and I'm not having great results. What is the procedure for bleeding with the power booster? Yes, I have a manual, and it says that when bleeding the brakes on a Thunderbird with the power booster, that a hose should be put on the bleeder nipple on the booster before bleeding the brakes, but it doesn't say what to do with it after that. I took this to mean that I should bleed the booster first, then bleed each of the other wheels, starting with thee passenger side rear, etc. Am I doing this correctly, or is there some other procedure for getting these brakes bled correctly?
Click to expand...
I purchased a brake bleeding bottle. It takes about 3 Lts of brake fluid. It has a small chain that wraps around the brake master cylinder reservoir to hold the cap on. Fits many different size master cylinders. You pump it up and the fluid is pressurised in the system. I then start at the furthest part of the car and bleed out all the air. I find this system works very well.
 
Robert Evans said:
I purchased a brake bleeding bottle. It takes about 3 Lts of brake fluid. It has a small chain that wraps around the brake master cylinder reservoir to hold the cap on. Fits many different size master cylinders. You pump it up and the fluid is pressurised in the system. I then start at the furthest part of the car and bleed out all the air. I find this system works very well.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Robert. What brand of bottle did you buy?
 
It is a SEALEY VS820 CLUTCH AND BRAKE BLEED system. Not sure if these are available in USA. I can send you one if you need from UK.
 
Replaced left rear wheel cylinder and bleed the line. Brakes seem to work fine now. Do I need to bleed the other three lines?
 
Jay Fitzpatrick said:
Replaced left rear wheel cylinder and bleed the line. Brakes seem to work fine now. Do I need to bleed the other three lines?
Click to expand...
Not needed from your report, but if one cylinder went bad there is probably a lot of moisture in the brake fluid as it tends to absorb moisture over the years. If the fluid is several years old it might be a good idea to flush the lines with new fluid. It's a pain but worthwhile. Start with the wheel farthest from the master and work yourself forward. A flushing kit would be real handy unless you can recruit someone to pump the pedal for you.
 
Robert Evans said:
It is a SEALEY VS820 CLUTCH AND BRAKE BLEED system. Not sure if these are available in USA. I can send you one if you need from UK.
Click to expand...
Seeing as I'm going to pull my booster for rebuilding and replacing the hose to the frame. It looks like it won't survive dismantling.
I've been looking for one person bleeders. That's a pretty expensive unit I may only use once. I guess I'll have to bribe the wife to be my pedal pusher. On and the unit is available. here in U.S.A. on Ebay.
 
Generally, if it's a single bowl master you don't need to bleed it in doing the brakes. A double bowl master cylinder s/b hand bled prior to installation.

As far as the brake booster is concerned, yes that should be bled first and then the wheel cylinders.
 
Just had a weird issue. Took my car out for a drive before putting it away for the winter. the P/B boost was a little erratic. My M/C was down 1/4 after checking & filling a bit ago. After having my booster rebuilt the bleeder valve has wept a bit. When I checked it back at home, it was apparent fluid was squirting out of it. Snugged it a bit more and now acts as if it's not seated at all. Seats look good Pictures attached.
I have no idea of the sudden change. Could a cheap valve warp and only LOOK like its been seated but not fully. 20221009_145346.jpg20221009_145447.jpg20221009_145547.jpg20221009_145623.jpg
 
I would get a new bleeder screw first of all.. If that doesn't cure it, then a new cylinder is the next step.

People should always start a new thread instead of piggy backing on a old one. Even if the topic is somewhat related.
 
paul5456 said:
I would get a new bleeder screw first of all.. If that doesn't cure it, then a new cylinder is the next step.

People should always start a new thread instead of piggy backing on a old one. Even if the topic is somewhat related.
Click to expand...
I think I'll take the screw down to my Mustang restoration shop and get their opinion. They are the ones that replaced my original on the rebuild. It's coated with some shiny material designed to make it look better but at the seat it's nowhere to be found. I think my shop should know that what they were supplied may be in question. Not part of the rebuild kit by the way from my supplier for the kit. They should have an original or NOS.
 
Last edited:
Ward 57 said:
I think I'll take the screw down to my Mustang restoration shop and get their opinion. They are the ones that replaced my original on the rebuild. It's coated with some shiny material designed to make it look better but at the seat it's nowhere to be found. I think my shop should know that what they were supplied may be in question. Not part of the rebuild kit by the way from my supplier for the kit. They should have an original or NOS.
Click to expand...
Does anyone know if there is a brass seat in the booster for the bleed valve I may have dislodged? I have a cap screw now to plug it if needed. Really only need the bleeder screw on rebuild or need to bleed it sometime in the future and will keep it to use to capture any fluid if needed.
 
Ward 57 said:
Does anyone know if there is a brass seat in the booster for the bleed valve I may have dislodged? I have a cap screw now to plug it if needed. Really only need the bleeder screw on rebuild or need to bleed it sometime in the future and will keep it to use to capture any fluid if needed.
Click to expand...
@Ward 57 did you ever resolve this problem? I just installed my rebuilt booster and having the same problem!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Tom Davis said:
@Ward 57 did you ever resolve this problem? I just installed my rebuilt booster and having the same problem!
Click to expand...
My shop gave me a threaded plug to replace bleeder, wrapped the threads with yellow Teflon tape and stopped the leak. Where you would find one, I have no idea. I ordered a replacement bleeder and see if it works in the spring. I guess you could plug the holes in your current one to use as a plug.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top