1957 manual drum brakes want to convert to dual master cylinder

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Are you planning to convert to front disk brakes? Then you will need a double master cylinder in the conversion. You might have to relocate the battery to the trunk if the master cylinder takes up too much room....
 

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The reason=peace of mind/safety
Live on a long hill that ends on a main road.
Prestige Thunderbird In California sells a complete kit including prebent lines and fittings with very comprehensive instructions.
No need to relocate battery.
Did the conversion 3 years ago and very happy with installation. As a plus to the project I flushed the complete system and refilled with silicone fluid.
 
68ChevyTruck said:
The reason=peace of mind/safety
Live on a long hill that ends on a main road.
Prestige Thunderbird In California sells a complete kit including prebent lines and fittings with very comprehensive instructions.
No need to relocate battery.
Did the conversion 3 years ago and very happy with installation. As a plus to the project I flushed the complete system and refilled with silicone fluid.
Click to expand...
Hope you rebuilt the wheel cylinders with silicone compatible components.
 
I would recommend converting to front disk brakes at the same time. IMG_6474.jpgIMG_6473.jpg
 
Ward 57 said:
I have the original brake system w/ booster and have no issues. I Use DOT3 these cars like it.
Click to expand...
I also have the original system. It took me a while to get it right but now it's working great and is fine for normal driving. I added self-adjusters to the fronts. I would not argue that a disk conversion wouldn't be even better, but I don't think it's necessary once you get the factory system fixed up "like new" unless you do a lot of hilly driving or tailgating. Mine can put you thru the windshield if need be.
 
Tom Alpers said:
I also have the original system. It took me a while to get it right but now it's working great and is fine for normal driving. I added self-adjusters to the fronts. I would not argue that a disk conversion wouldn't be even better, but I don't think it's necessary once you get the factory system fixed up "like new" unless you do a lot of hilly driving or tailgating. Mine can put you thru the windshield if need be.
Click to expand...
Just to be safe I replaced the flexible lines especially the one on the rear axle which was still original. The fronts were done over 35 years ago when I had the front springs replaced.
 
Has anyone done a dual master cylinder conversion with power brakes? If so, could you give me details on installation and what would need to be purchased to make this happen. I understand the installation on a non
power setup.
 
farmerdick said:
Has anyone done a dual master cylinder conversion with power brakes? If so, could you give me details on installation and what would need to be purchased to make this happen. I understand the installation on a non
power setup.
Click to expand...
The basic way is to use a dual master and for the front brakes, you have that circuit connected to the original booster. For the rear brakes, you connect them directly to the rears. That's when you use an original style booster. If you switch to a "modern" booster that sits behind the master cylinder it will "boost" both the front and rear. For those systems people often use a proportioning valve to reduce pressure to the rears and/or they put in rear brake cylinders which have a smaller bore, I think from a 55... I'd have to look it up.
 
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