1957 Fuel issues

[Ames]

I just replace the flexible fuel line going to the fuel pump because it was broken, the fuel bowl never filled all the way up but it worked fine. The car sat for about a week or so and it won't get gas now and the fuel in the bowl is below the filter. I figured fuel pump but it looks like I can't get one now and the catalogs show an electric replacement. I am wondering if I can rebuild these pumps or find one or if the Pink bomber is destined for the electric upgrade?

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[Ward 57]

I just replace the flexible fuel line going to the fuel pump because it was broken, the fuel bowl never filled all the way up but it worked fine. The car sat for about a week or so and it won't get gas now and the fuel in the bowl is below the filter. I figured fuel pump but it looks like I can't get one now and the catalogs show an electric replacement. I am wondering if I can rebuild these pumps or find one or if the Pink bomber is destined for the electric upgrade?

Exactly which line are you referring to? From the frame to the pump? I've never seen the fuel bowl more than half full but as long as it's above the base of the filter you should be good.
The odds of the pump going out when just replacing a line are low and if it's an original AC pump they are rebuildable. When I had mine rebuilt the wipers now go like crazy.
I'd look at your connections. May be sucking air instead of fuel. I have heard reports that some of the fuel replacement lines have too small of an interior diameter restricting flow also especially if the pump is weak. You may have introduced debris into the reed valves of the pump but that also is not too likely.

 

[zeroroadkill]

I just replace the flexible fuel line going to the fuel pump because it was broken, the fuel bowl never filled all the way up but it worked fine. The car sat for about a week or so and it won't get gas now and the fuel in the bowl is below the filter. I figured fuel pump but it looks like I can't get one now and the catalogs show an electric replacement. I am wondering if I can rebuild these pumps or find one or if the Pink bomber is destined for the electric upgrade?

Check for an air leak in your connections. Your mechanical pump may have failed? The filter bowl doesn't have to be all the way full to work.
If you have an original non-Chinese pump (I believe with flathead screws: someone confirm please), you can send it to a rebuilder (see other fuel posts for dealer). If the vacuum side still works, you can bypass the pump with an electric pump (I did). Some put the electric pump in series with the mechanical pump BUT if the internal diaphragm of the old pump fails gas will feed into the crankcase (not good). I suggest that if you install an electric pump, install an inertial safety cut-off switch on the firewall (in case of an accident, it shuts off the pump) along with a on/off switch under the dash (used as a anti-thief device). OOPS, didn't see Ward's reply.......

 

[SWinner]

If you have an original USA fuel pump, these folks should be able to help.

Then and Now Automotive

 

[doug7740]

The rebuildable fuel pumps have slotted screws.



The defective fuel pumps from China have phillips screws.





If you can't rebuild the fuel pump yourself, send it to Arthur Gould and have them rebuild it for you.

AG Rebuilders |​

agrebuilders.com

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[zeroroadkill]

I’ve also had bad pumps with hex head screws.

 

[Ames]

Exactly which line are you referring to? From the frame to the pump? I've never seen the fuel bowl more than half full but as long as it's above the base of the filter you should be good.
The odds of the pump going out when just replacing a line are low and if it's an original AC pump they are rebuildable. When I had mine rebuilt the wipers now go like crazy.
I'd look at your connections. May be sucking air instead of fuel. I have heard reports that some of the fuel replacement lines have too small of an interior diameter restricting flow also especially if the pump is weak. You may have introduced debris into the reed valves of the pump but that also is not too likely.

It was the flex line from the fuel line at frame to the pump. There was minimal debris in the carb and bowl was clean so I didn't think the pump came apart but it is the original pump. I also put new rubber hoses coming off the top of the pump to because they had hardened so I can't think that its getting air.

 

[Ward 57]

It was the flex line from the fuel line at frame to the pump. There was minimal debris in the carb and bowl was clean so I didn't think the pump came apart but it is the original pump. I also put new rubber hoses coming off the top of the pump to because they had hardened so I can't think that its getting air.

A simple test would be to remove the hose at the frame and turn the engine over while holding your finger over the end of the hose to see if you are getting suction. Also double check the seat of the fitting for any debris which may be preventing it from seating properly if you have suction.

 

[Ames]

The rebuildable fuel pumps have slotted screws.

View attachment 29659

The defective fuel pumps from China have phillips screws.

View attachment 29660

View attachment 29661

If you can't rebuild the fuel pump yourself, send it to Arthur Gould and have them rebuild it for you.

AG Rebuilders |​

agrebuilders.com

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Thank you for this information, excited about rebuilding it myself.

 

[doug7740]

Good for you. Half the fun of owning a classic car is doing the work yourself.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[56tbirdguy]

I went with an electric fuel pump in-line with the manual fuel pump because I had surging issues which I attribute to the fuel pump not being able to supply enough gas when going uphill at 70-80 mph. I think I got the fuel pump from CASCO but not sure. Friend of mine said that a lot of the new fuel pumps are like that and need a bit of a boost to help. Sure fixed my problem!

 

[Ames]

Hi ya'll, I was on here about 2 months ago with a fuel pump issue on my 57. I thought I had the original but I do not and have heard from you guys about the the choices that are available and how they do not work. I was sent on from Hill's out of Ohio and it did not work either. He is working with me but I don't think he is having much luck. I have two questions, 1.) I found a fuel pump with the spare parts I received with the car in 2012, the pump has a glass bowl attached without the vacuum tubes on top- Will this work? 2.) Will the fuel pumps from Summit (almost 200$) work or they just like the rest of the overseas stuff?
I discussed with alot of you about transitioning to an electric pump but I was told that these pumps don't work very well for long trips, I drive this car alot around the TN area and I don't want to get stranded on the back roads.

 

[zeroroadkill]

The electric pump from CASCO works well on long trips. I’ve had it for years.

 

[Ames]

The electric pump from CASCO works well on long trips. I’ve had it for years.

Thank you, were you able to install it yourself?

 

[Ames]

Hey ZRK, CASCO shows two options, I was wondering which one you put in your T-Bird. One is a conversion and the other says it works in conjunction with the pump.

 

[zeroroadkill]

Yes. Remove the left front under fender deflector and mount the pump to the pre-threaded clutch linkage holes in the frame rail (assuming you have an automatic).. measure and cut with a pipe cutter (to prevent filing debris) the fuel line and attach the pump rubber hoses. Hint: use better hose clamps). Run wiring to a inertia switch (I located mine on this firewall behind the battery) and to the under dash toggle switch through the wiring grommet then to the ignition switch.

I then bypassed the mechanical fuel pump and went directly to the fuel line going to the filter, but left the fittings on the old pump in case of a failure (my mechanical pump still works, but not good) If you run the electric pump output through the mechanical pump you risk fuel leaking into the crankcase if the mechanical pump inner diagram fails. Monitor your oil and smell the dip stick for gasoline smell.

I use the under dash toggle switch as an anti-theft device and to turn off the pump to run the carburetor dry for storage in the winter.

No problems after 3 years so far!

Good luck

 

[doug7740]

If the vacuum side of your fuel pump still works or you want to maintain the look of the original pump while using an electric fuel pump, CASCO sells a kit that prevents fuel from entering the crankcase.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Ames]

Thank you Doug