1957 brake booster removal

[Ward 57]

I'm going to remove my brake booster for rebuild. It's not doing anything.
Anything I should know other than the shop manual? I don't want to have to bleed the whole system when done. If I keep the lines I take off and just keep them up so they don't take in air, can just bleed it at the booster?

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[jack-in-sac]

One question you might ask yourself is: When was the last time I bled these brakes and rplaced the old fluid with new clean fluid?

 

[Ward 57]

One question you might ask yourself is: When was the last time I bled these brakes and rplaced the old fluid with new clean fluid?

I just had the brakes bled and adjusted this spring. A few years ago cleaned out the master and bled it. The system is full of newer fluid. Just want to eliminate more air than needed.

 

[Critterpainer]

Can you get a union to couple the two disconnected lines together? Have someone slowly depress the brake pedal while tightening the lines. If you then cap the vacuum line you can still safely drive the car,

 

[Ward 57]

Can you get a union to couple the two disconnected lines together? Have someone slowly depress the brake pedal while tightening the lines. If you then cap the vacuum line you can still safely drive the car,

Don't quite capture your methodology. more tinkering than I want to do. All I want to do is to not introduce air to the system that I can't bleed at the booster and not the whole system once I re-install it. Not planning on driving it until then. Have to rebuild the Turn signal cancelling system while it's out.

 

[Critterpainer]

If you don't plan to drive it then just pop a plastic cap on the open ends. The only difference between the power brakes and standard brakes is inserting the vacuum booster into the middle of the brake line coming off the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders.

 

[Ward 57]

If you don't plan to drive it then just pop a plastic cap on the open ends. The only difference between the power brakes and standard brakes is inserting the vacuum booster into the middle of the brake line coming off the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders.

Good Idea about the caps. Have a couple on my work bench left over from other projects. Others may look at our parts as debris, But we know we'll find a use. Just like your fitting for your fuel line to the pump. A simple 'L' fitting you had in stock. I'll just plop them on the ends of the lines off of the booster. I have an early '57 model where the vacuum line is a rubber hose from the manifold.
I've been accused of being crazy but crafty, and proud of being old school.

 

[jimntempe]

I'm going to remove my brake booster for rebuild. It's not doing anything.
Anything I should know other than the shop manual? I don't want to have to bleed the whole system when done. If I keep the lines I take off and just keep them up so they don't take in air, can just bleed it at the booster?

You should be able to. I pulled the booster to rebuild it and also replaced the master cylinder and all the lines from "up top" down to the fitting on the frame. I bench bled the MC and used the bleeder screw on the booster to bleed it. Didn't touch the rest of the system and it pumped up fine.

 

[Ward 57]

You should be able to. I pulled the booster to rebuild it and also replaced the master cylinder and all the lines from "up top" down to the fitting on the frame. I bench bled the MC and used the bleeder screw on the booster to bleed it. Didn't touch the rest of the system and it pumped up fine.

Just what I needed to know. So you had no problem bleeding the line from the booster to the frame from the booster? Mine's crusty and stiff and planning on buying that line for re-install especially if it begins to fail on cracking it open. Thanks.

 

[jimntempe]

Just what I needed to know. So you had no problem bleeding the line from the booster to the frame from the booster? Mine's crusty and stiff and planning on buying that line for re-install especially if it begins to fail on cracking it open. Thanks.

I did not specifically bleed the line from the booster to the frame but I had to replace the block because the previous owner jammed the wrong sized fitting into it and ruined the threads for reuse. So all the lines at the block were disconnected at one point. Plus I wound up replacing the brake light switch that is on it (and the new one failed to work right so I went to a mechanical switch under the dash). Air in the system will rise to the level of the booster in a fairly short time if any gets in those parts and then you can bleed it out of the booster if it comes to that.

 

[Ward 57]

I did not specifically bleed the line from the booster to the frame but I had to replace the block because the previous owner jammed the wrong sized fitting into it and ruined the threads for reuse. So all the lines at the block were disconnected at one point. Plus I wound up replacing the brake light switch that is on it (and the new one failed to work right so I went to a mechanical switch under the dash). Air in the system will rise to the level of the booster in a fairly short time if any gets in those parts and then you can bleed it out of the booster if it comes to that.

Excellent. just didn't want to bleed the whole system again and asking the wife to work the pedal more than needed. I'll fill the line once the lower connection is made (slowly) and burp it. If I touch it I know the effects go downline. Ever replaced a sink drain? It's never just the waste line from the sink.

 

[doug7740]

Why don’t you just bleed the system the proper way? It’s not hard to bleed the brake system and since you have to bleed the booster anyway it won’t cost you any more then 1 can of brake fluid. You should never take short cuts when working on the brake system.

 

[knuckle47]

@Ward 57 do you need to re-build the booster? My booster is coming out Saturday, I have all the parts and pieces for a rebuild but I see several photos of the booster painted black and almost as many where it looks like that gold cadmium surface. I tend to believe the gold one is correct? Anyone care to chime in?

 

[Ward 57]

@Ward 57 do you need to re-build the booster? My booster is coming out Saturday, I have all the parts and pieces for a rebuild but I see several photos of the booster painted black and almost as many where it looks like that gold cadmium surface. I tend to believe the gold one is correct? Anyone care to chime in?

Mine was just rebuilt. As original the vacuum chamber is black and the cast iron is natural. You could go either way for the 'bling' but originally the vacuum chamber was black and I think it just ads more contrast to the engine compartment with contrasting colors. The heater plenum, the fan shroud the regulator cover, the starter & generator all black. That is bling to me.

 

[doug7740]

@Ward 57 do you need to re-build the booster? My booster is coming out Saturday, I have all the parts and pieces for a rebuild but I see several photos of the booster painted black and almost as many where it looks like that gold cadmium surface. I tend to believe the gold one is correct? Anyone care to chime in?

Below is information about the brake booster.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[paul5456]

I think your trying to be penny wise and pound foolish in trying to save a little time. Brakes are one of the most important systems on an automobile. Trying to save a penny (or maybe an hour) could lead to brake failure and a busted up car. You really want to take that chance?