1956 Vapor Lock with Dual Outlet In-Line Fuel Filter? | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

1956 Vapor Lock with Dual Outlet In-Line Fuel Filter?

tovigba

tovigba

Reaction score
1
Thunderbird Year
1956
I apologize in advance for posting yet another vapor lock question, but this has got me stumped. To remedy the issue, I replaced the stock glass fuel filter with a WIX dual outlet in-line fuel filter which returns excess carb fuel to the gas tank through a copper line that feeds into what was the gas tank drain plug opening. I filled the gas tank, drove around 12 miles on an 85-degree day and parked for an hour. Restarting the vehicle took a couple of try's, drove around 1,000 feet, then engine coughed and died. Got a tow home and then the next day the car started right up. This is almost exactly what happened with the old glass filter, and hence the vapor lock issue still seems present. I was told that the WIX dual outlet in-line filter system would eliminate any possible vapor lock. So, my question is why I would still have the issue. I am speculating that the gas tank being full is restricting the excess fuel from readily returning to the bottom of the gas tank through the drain plug hole? (Note that the gas cap does have a small venting hole). Or my fuel pump is not delivering enough fuel pressure for the dual outlet system to properly function? Anybody ever heard of this happening with a dual outlet fuel system? As always, thanks all.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
If you have the dual line fuel pump you do not need the filter with the return as that weakens the pressure to your carb. Do you have a heat spacer between your carb and your manifold? My Lincoln had same problem, the spacer fixed it.
 
Interesting, I will ask my mechanic about a heat spacer between the carburetor and the manifold. Thank you, this is helpful. Off the top of my head, there is a single fuel line going into the dual outlet in line filter. I’m also going to ask my mechanic to determine if there’s enough pressure going into the filter. But again, the heat spacer is an interesting idea.
 
I had the same problem . Thinking it was vapor lock. It turned out to be the gas cap had no vent and was causing a vacuum in the tank starving the pump for fuel. Removed the cap and the problem was solved. Hope it's as easy for you. Good.luck!
 
By the way. I did the same . 2 outlet fuel filter, carb spacer. Same problem until I removed the gas cap. Car would run about 15 minute and start sputtering eventually stalling out until it sat for a while.
 
I also have a 1956 with the 312 and I'm having a vapor lock issue as well. This is only my second summer owning the car. My issue is the vapor lock is at the fuel pump not the carburator. When it dies, the glass fuel filter bowl is empty. The only things I've tried so far is insulating the fuel line and adding a phenolic spacer between the fuel pump and engine which did not help. I can start it again after cooling down fuel pump and priming the carb. My next plan is the use straight recreation fuel without methanol since it takes a higher temperature to vaporize pure gasoline.
 
I've had the same problem of vapor lock with my 1955 Thunderbird. Put the phenolic spacer in the carburetor, insulated the fuel lines and even ran with the hood up off its latch to get home. None of this really worked I finally installed an electric fuel pump down by the frame. I located it where the two fuel lines meet and did not cut them but took out the spacer and I used the new rubber hoses that are alcohol resistance that go into the fuel pump to give flexibility I'll try to include a photo I put a momentary switch in so that I could reach up underneath the dash and energize it to pump through when the vapor lock would happen this worked for a while but on real hot days I found out that I had to keep it on all the time so I put a switch down underneath the seat hooked up to the ignition that I can turn on and off and on hot days I just leave it on and let the fuel pump run that solve the problem I removed the insulation from around the fuel lines as I did not like the look it works great n.ow.
 
Fuel pump located on frame without cutting fuel line just remove the spacer and use the flexible fuel lines that go to the fuel pump that are alcohol resistant.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20250909_142512837.jpg
    IMG_20250909_142512837.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG_20241223_155806484.jpg
    IMG_20241223_155806484.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 8
ditto simonsma's fixes, plus use only [U][SIZE=4]non-ethen[/SIZE]ol[/U] gas, I run both original pump and the electric as well, and a simple switch underneath the dash for safety. Like simonsma, I still keep the electric pump on all the time. Has worked all these 100+ degree days in Texas. One more thing, my 1955 has a six blade fan, I've heard that is pretty important as well. Oh yeah, I still have a wooden clothspin mounted on the gas line for good luck (like the old-timers)
 
Back
Top