1956 speedometer & tachometer cable replacement difficulty

[ICON 56]

Did you try to find on E Bay ?

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[Bills56tbird]

I commend you for repairing the tachometer yourself instead of paying someone else to repair it for you. Like the speedometer, the tachometer needle moves by the centrifugal force of the magnet spinning around the inside of the metal cup, but since the tachometer has fewer moving parts, it is easier to repair.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

View attachment 32672

View attachment 32673

Doug, my issue is the back of the tachometer the new cable is loose (doesn’t fit right) into the bushing. Is there an adapter?

 

[My2ndFord]

I have the same tach cable as your 0880 photo . Mine spins after graphite lube easily but may not extend deep into the tach display (it popped up for a second the dropped to zero). It looks like I have the same issue with the cable end.

I had the same problem. The square inner cable does not go in far enough to engage the tach or speedo to get past the worn input. Once i cleaned up the tach input so it turned readily, I shimmed the end of the cable and it seems to work.

 

[doug7740]

Doug, my issue is the back of the tachometer the new cable is loose (doesn’t fit right) into the bushing. Is there an adapter?

NPD sells an adapter for the speedometer cable; I don't know if that is what you need, but for $11.79 its worth a try.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[My2ndFord]

The connector and spring clip won't work with the new cables with the square gauge end. The original tach and speedo both use this connector at the gauge end. The clip engages a square hole in the gauge input. The problem arises when the gauge gets "stiff." The clip will spin in the gauge which will, I believe, wear the square opening round. The new cables with the square end extend maybe 1/4" into the gauge. This is fine if the gauge opening isn't worn. I found the opening is still square beyond the worn area. I made a shim that extends into the square area and engages the new cable and seems to work. The original connector requires a cable with a flat end and a "deeper" housing for the connector. I've attached some pictures. The first shows the connector and clip along with the new cable. Note the clip is flat where it inserts into the connector. The next picture shows why the connector and clip won't work with the new cable. It's too long. The third picture shows the original cable with new cable. You can see there is not room for the connector in the new cable. Seeing what the problem is, maybe someone has a better solution than my shim approach?

 

[Bills56tbird]

The connector and spring clip won't work with the new cables with the square gauge end. The original tach and speedo both use this connector at the gauge end. The clip engages a square hole in the gauge input. The problem arises when the gauge gets "stiff." The clip will spin in the gauge which will, I believe, wear the square opening round. The new cables with the square end extend maybe 1/4" into the gauge. This is fine if the gauge opening isn't worn. I found the opening is still square beyond the worn area. I made a shim that extends into the square area and engages the new cable and seems to work. The original connector requires a cable with a flat end and a "deeper" housing for the connector. I've attached some pictures. The first shows the connector and clip along with the new cable. Note the clip is flat where it inserts into the connector. The next picture shows why the connector and clip won't work with the new cable. It's too long. The third picture shows the original cable with new cable. You can see there is not room for the connector in the new cable. Seeing what the problem is, maybe someone has a better solution than my shim approach?

My tach is working perfectly now. As you said the tach end is tricky how the cable fits in the hole. There’s a fine balance of pulling the cable out and “fitting “ it in the brass hole and having it snug the pulling the sheath back over and having it catch in the distributor gear.
I did this while it was running at it went pretty smoothly. I did not tighten the outer cable ferrule nut as “while the car was running” didn’t want to go too deep with it since, I believe, the cable they sell is about 1/4” too short at 38”.