I just did it recently on my '55, and it might be possible for a contortionist to find and remove the seat bolts if he had flat arms and long wrenches, but I cannot imagine anyone getting them back on. Besides, you have to unhook the motor UNDER the seat to remove it.
Take the seat out, it's only four bolts.
I redid the tracks on mine, and they were full of old grease, paint and
rust, and the ball bearings in the tracks were square. Measured the old ones at 5/8" and got new ones, but they would not roll in the track after it was cleaned up, so I bought 1/2" and 7/16" bearings, and used the ones that worked best.
I had paid a 'mechanic' to fix the power seat, and he really messed it up. The seat wouldn't even move when I got it back, and the seat was stuck in the foremost position when I needed it in the rearmost. Turns out he freed up the motor at the rear, and never touched the one underneath. The lithium grease was so hard I couldn't move the screw with a wrench. Took it apart (just the screw mechanism, motor was fine), cleaned it up and put a bit of new grease on the threads, and the mechanism worked fine. The big problem was the tracks with layers of poured on paint and old hard grease. I had to drill out the rivets holding the tracks together and do a lot of cleaning, then new bearings to replace the square ones. I also had to take a dremel with a small barrel sanding drum and tried to renew up where the tracks had ruts worn in them by the bad bearings. I used a nut and bolt to hold the tracks back together where I had drilled out the rivets. Works fine now.
