1956 New Owner ? re: shutting hood

Hi, all...just took possession of a 1956, first classic car! I'm sure I'll have a lot of dumb questions, but the first one is...what's the best way to close the hood? I've tried letting it drop from 6-8", but it doesn't want to latch that way (maybe latches need some lube or adjustment?), so the two times I've closed it now, I just press down gently but firmly with two hands, but I don't want to dent or damage anything.

Anyway, that's the *first* of what I'm sure will be a whole host of dumb questions...TIA for all your help!
 

CSPIDY

Well-Known Member
if the fit of the hood to the cowl and fenders looks good I would not make any adjustment.
if you can latch the hood by simply pushing down on it I would leave it alone.
does it release with out having to pull real hard?
don't want to break that cable
 
Fit is good, releases without an extraordinary amount of pull (positive force required, but not what I'd call excessive). Thanks...I did want to make certain that pushing it closed is okay (carefully, of course...I'm not a monkey just wanging down on the thing :))...in the middle is what I've done, so both sides latch simultaneously.

Can you tell I'm cautious and a bit nervous about everything on my new baby? :)
 
One thing you can to to eliminate the problem of a broken cable is to install a secondary cable.....just attach it to the same place as the original cable is attached and have a loop that you can access from under the dash........saves a big problem.
 
I seen where a secondary release cable was suggested. I have nightmares of that cable snapping and no way to open hood.
I'm just about done with a lot of restoration and I fully planned on putting in a back up cable. Made me smile to see I'm not the only one
 

Ward 57

Well-Known Member
I like Ken Car's suggestion. Just inspect your cable regularly and lubricate. I've found PB Blaster penetrant spray on the cable ends penetrates and prevents rust as it works along. Used it on my frozen E brake cable with wonderful results. I've also used it on all the ventilation cables with good results. I'd shy away from WD 40 as it attracts dirt. As a water dispersement yes since it's name, it's great. ( This is not an ad by the way ) lol
 
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Tater Salad

Well-Known Member
I like Ken Car's suggestion. Just inspect your cable regularly and lubricate. I've found PB Blaster penetrant spray on the cable ends penetrates and prevents rust as it works along. Used it on my frozen E brake cable with wonderful results. I've also used it on all the ventilation cables with good results. I'd shy away from WD 40 as it attracts dirt. As a water dispersement yes since it's name, it's great. ( This is not an ad by the way ) lol
Or kroil
 

Tater Salad

Well-Known Member
They have slightly thicker steel than the 66 or so mustang's(which dent at any pressure. You're fine. And if you're gonna use it. Get prepped for a rock scratch or two. These cars are beautiful, luxurious, and most important fun. Have some fun!
 

ICON 56

Well-Known Member
Just keep doing what you suggested , I just don't like to hold my hood and letting it slam down. I would just lay the hood down then gently push down on each side. Nothing wrong with it. I would think about a secondary cable/bar for the hood in case the cable snaps. To open is a PITA ! there is a tool that might work, BUT you would need to jack up the car to reach the cross member latch bar to hood it. Very difficult. I did install a second latch cable for emergency. I have posted the what the tool looks like. You can buy one at Casco for $14.00. ALso a picture of a hook rod that is connected to the hood release bar
 

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