1956 Fuel Pump Stopped Working | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Click here to remove google ads from the site
  • Click " Like/Thanks" at the bottom of a member's post to reward and thank them for their response! Points are added to their profile.
  • Get rid of swirls and minor paint surface scratches with this Polish & Compounds kit. Click here to read more!.

1956 Fuel Pump Stopped Working

  • Thread starter Thread starter captainbah
  • Start date Start date
Has anybody rebuilt theirs with the under $4.00 rebuild kit from Casco.
The info Doug7740 provided is spot on. I just remove the brace between the power steering reservoir and engine block without moving the pump. It’s a little tight as far as working space but doable. As Doug mentions, making sure the pump arm is under the lobe when reinstalling is critical. Good luck.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
I've got small hands and a socket 'U' joint plus articulating ratchet box end wrenches. I want to move around stuff as little as possible.
I'll order the rebuild kit and see if my carb guy will do the rebuild and probably less than the rebuilt units which are hard to come by. My mechanic ( been in the classic car biz almost forever )said 'go rebuild not new'.
 
The info Doug7740 provided is spot on. I just remove the brace between the power steering reservoir and engine block without moving the pump. It’s a little tight as far as working space but doable. As Doug mentions, making sure the pump arm is under the lobe when reinstalling is critical. Good luck.
You must be a mechanical magician. It's unbolted but can't get it out. I'll unbolt the pump to give me room to pull it. .
 
How can you test a pump to see if it is plumbed backwards? I ran the engine, bypassing the pump totally (electric pump installed) there was no suction on the input side and the outlet was exposed and nothing goining in or out. I put the lines in the same place as they were removed from a working but old pump. The carb supply line will not line up to the opposite port. I wonder if they put the check valves in backwards? I am going to take this pump, that never worked, apart soon.
 
You must be a mechanical magician. It's unbolted but can't get it out. I'll unbolt the pump to give me room to pull it. .
In my experience you need to remove the fan shroud then unbolt the P/S pump and move it forward and out of the way then you will have unfettered access to the pump.
 
In my experience you need to remove the fan shroud then unbolt the P/S pump and move it forward and out of the way then you will have unfettered access to the pump.

all I need to do on mine is remove that back brace for the pump, the one that is bolted to the one exhaust manifold bolt. Then loosen a couple of other bolts on the pump to move it a little if needed. Fuel pump comes right out. Can't picture why the shroud would need to be touched.
 
all I need to do on mine is remove that back brace for the pump, the one that is bolted to the one exhaust manifold bolt. Then loosen a couple of other bolts on the pump to move it a little if needed. Fuel pump comes right out. Can't picture why the shroud would need to be touched.
Just so I could move the pump further forward for access. Not much trouble at all and gave me plenty of room.
 
My fuel pump seems to have stopped working. While driving, we went over a bump and the brass reducer/adapter that attaches to the output fuel line from the pumps cracked. It banged against the frame/cross member (looks like on new pumps, the outlet has been offset by 90 degrees to fix this issue)

I replaced the adapter, hooked everything back up and it would not pump fuel. Pulled the fuel pump out and took it completely apart (pain in the rear end to put the internals back together) and when I actuated the arm, I can hear "sucking" noises, but when it's installed, no fuel pumps. Not sure where to go from here and want to do a little trouble shooting before I buy a new pump.

Thanks

Buy a airtex pump ,you will not regret it.
 
My fuel pump seems to have stopped working. While driving, we went over a bump and the brass reducer/adapter that attaches to the output fuel line from the pumps cracked. It banged against the frame/cross member (looks like on new pumps, the outlet has been offset by 90 degrees to fix this issue)

I replaced the adapter, hooked everything back up and it would not pump fuel. Pulled the fuel pump out and took it completely apart (pain in the rear end to put the internals back together) and when I actuated the arm, I can hear "sucking" noises, but when it's installed, no fuel pumps. Not sure where to go from here and want to do a little trouble shooting before I buy a new pump.

Thanks
If you have a USA, Canadian or Mexican made pump you are better off geting it rebuilt than a new one. Most new ones are worse than your bad ones.
 
Back
Top