1956 Electric fuel pump wiring

woodeye

woodeye

Active Member
Last seen
Joined
Mar 12, 2021
Thunderbird Year
1956
Has anyone wired the fuel pump using the start circuit of the ignition switch? I'm afraid I will forget to turn it off after the car starts. Is it wrong to let the pump operate while the car is running using the mech. pump.
I gave some consideration to using a momentary button, or toggle switch.
 

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You can run the pump power from the ACC terminal of the ignition switch
You can also run it through a switch to the pump
I would also add power interrupter in case of an accident
Ron Frances sells a nice one that uses a G switch and a relay.
as far as letting the pump run all the time,
It depends on the pump
The pumps that are sold by the Tbird suppliers are not robust enough to run all the time
They are meant to only supplement fuel supply
You can buy a more robust pump but they tend to be very loud and you must ensure that they will allow fuel flow when not operating.
 
Thanks for your insights.
I have a elect. pump from CASCO.
By a power interrupter do you mean using power from say oil pressure sending unit. If so wouldn't the engine need to be at least turning over? Or are you thinking about a momentary switch?
I'd rather not use the elect. pump to run motor just to fill mech. pump.
I'm trying to prime the mech. pump prior to trying to start motor.
What are you referring to when you say a "G" switch.
It looks like many guys mount the pump on the driver frame rail.
Would it be wise to make a small shroud to protect the pump from road debris.
Would it be advisable to put a inline filter prior to the elect pump.
Thanks Jeff
 
If you purchase the pump set-up from CASCO, it comes with a powder coated bracket, switch and filter all ready to go. I use mine only after the car has set for a few days or as a back-up if the manuel pump were to fail.
 
The pump that CASCO sells is a supplementary pump, I believe it comes with an inlet filter
Not designed to run full time
As far as mounting,
There is a body support bracket that is located just under the drivers door along the frame.

Do not mount your pump in accordance with the instructions that comes with the pump
They have you mount it near the engine compartment and it needs to be lower and closer to the fuel tank

From Google Search:
Vapor locks are created in fuel systems when excessive heat turns liquid fuel into a non liquid vapor. Vapor locks usually occur in automobile fuel systems between the tank and carburetor. Most fuel we purchase today contains ethanol which adds to the possibility of a vapor lock especially in hot weather and during sustained loads while driving over steep terrain. Most vapor locks occur in the engine compartment of our Thunderbirds. They can also occur in the fuel line from the tank if the fuel line is too close to the tail pipe as it passes over the frame. Stainless steel fuel lines, although they look great, absorb more heat and can also contribute to a vapor lock.

An electric fuel pump can eliminate a vapor lock when properly installed and I stress when properly installed. They should be installed as close to the fuel tank as possible. They should never be installed in the engine compartment for two reasons, distance from the tank and excessive heat from the engine. If the electric pump is installed in the engine compartment they act as a heat sink which can cause a vapor lock. Electric fuel pumps are designed to push fuel and they loose efficiency when pulling fuel from the tank. I do not recommend by passing the mechanical fuel pump when an electrical pump is installed. If you feel it is necessary to by pass the mechanical pump should it fail a by pass hose can be fabricated and carried to be installed if you desire.

I recommend an inline pump similar to the one pictured, which was purchased from Car Quest Auto Parts P/N E8016S. It is installed for back up and used only to over come a vapor lock if necessary or cold starts if the vehicle has been setting for a long period of time especially on 1955/56 models. They are designed to allow fuel to pass through when the mechanical only pump is in use and can be used to augment the mechanical pump when the engine starts to surge at the onset of a vapor lock… I recommend installing the electrical pump in the fuel line on the out board side of the frame inside the second frame to floor brace away from any heat source. It is not necessary to drill a mount hole because a hole already exists in the brace. The pump has a wrap around mount bracket that requires one mount bolt which can also be used as a ground for the pump (black wire). The light brown wire on the pump attaches to a 12V power source controlled by an on off switch installed in a location of your choice. An impact shut off switch or shut off switch actuated by the oil pressure switch may be installed for added safety if you wish.
ElectricFP1.jpgElectricFP2.jpg
 
I’ll beg to differ with folks that criticize the CASCO electric fuel pump and it’s mounting location. As mentioned, this pump isn’t designed to run 24/7… Is design to be a back up system if your manual pump were to fail or the system became vapor locked. And the mounting location (due to the type of pump they sell). I had my manual pump rebuilt by Arthur Gould Rebuilders and will swear to their process. Do yourself a favor and get your original pump rebuilt by Arthur Gould and install the CASCO electric pump system as a safe guard and you’ll never have to deal with fuel or fuel delivery issues again!
 
What is the basis of the claim that these fuel pumps can't run for as long as the car is running? I don't recall that being listed anywhere in the sales material. My last mechanical pump was rebuilt by Arthur Gould and worked great for a week. Now it craps out after 5 miles. The electric pump will run the car all day.
 
The pump that CASCO sells is an excellent pump
Small and quiet by design
it will work very well for what the OP is looking for
I have one in my bird.
 
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