1956 break light only lights when pedal is pushed hard

[woodeye]

I'm just beginning to know the car. Only had it a few months and just now getting time to work out bugs.
I was told by a driver behind me my break lights didn't work. Upon investigating I found out that on light pressure, as in slowing down gradually, that lights don't light.
I must apply hard pressure to light break lights.
Another thing, the front breaks were converted to disks by previous owner. The pedal is real high, almost no play (slack) at the top of pedal, and you must push very hard to activate the breaks even though I'm told I do have power breaks. The breaks do stop car straight, but only with a lot of pressure.
Any ideas what is going on.
Thanks Jeff

 

[MRansom]

“The pressure activated switches are known to fail and may be the cause. Remove the wires from the switch and jump together and if the lights turn on the pressure switch is at fault.

IF wired as "originally designed", the back up lights will not work unless the headlights are on.”

 

[jack-in-sac]

I'm just beginning to know the car. Only had it a few months and just now getting time to work out bugs.
I was told by a driver behind me my break lights didn't work. Upon investigating I found out that on light pressure, as in slowing down gradually, that lights don't light.
I must apply hard pressure to light break lights.
Another thing, the front breaks were converted to disks by previous owner. The pedal is real high, almost no play (slack) at the top of pedal, and you must push very hard to activate the breaks even though I'm told I do have power breaks. The breaks do stop car straight, but only with a lot of pressure.
Any ideas what is going on.
Thanks Jeff

BRAKE lights; If you still have the original pressure switch you may try replacing it. Your statement of needing to push very hard is relative. Compared to modern braking systems older brake systems will often require more pressure to stop. I do not have power brakes with my disc conversion. My pedal pressuer seems about the same. I did install a residual pressure switch so that my applying brakes is more even in application. You say you are told you have power brakes. When you open the hood is there a power brake booster on the drivers side inner fender? It may be defective or the plumbing installed with the disc brakes is incorrect. You say the pedal is high. What constitutes high? You should have about an inch or so of play even a bit less. You can alleviate some effort by repositioning the brake master cylinder on the pedal arm by about an inch down, for more leverage. Check your booster checked for proper operation, at least that is where I would start.

 

[Boozeman]

I'm just beginning to know the car. Only had it a few months and just now getting time to work out bugs.
I was told by a driver behind me my break lights didn't work. Upon investigating I found out that on light pressure, as in slowing down gradually, that lights don't light.
I must apply hard pressure to light break lights.
Another thing, the front breaks were converted to disks by previous owner. The pedal is real high, almost no play (slack) at the top of pedal, and you must push very hard to activate the breaks even though I'm told I do have power breaks. The breaks do stop car straight, but only with a lot of pressure.
Any ideas what is going on.
Thanks Jeff

I had exactly the same issue. When I replaced my original inline switch, I found that sometimes the pressure in the brake lines was insufficient to light up my brake lights until the pedal was close to the floor, causing the brake lights to come on too late or not at all. CASCO makes an electric brake light switch that you can install while leaving your original inline brakelight switch in place for appearance. I added CASCO's electric brakelight switch (and left my pressure switch in place, and now the brake lights work perfectly. Other than contorting to get up under the dash, it's a very easy install. Here is a link to their switch: https://www.classictbird.com/Mechanical-Brake-Lite-Switch-Kit-1-Per-car/productinfo/13480MK/

Good luck!

 

[woodeye]

thanks for the advice. I've ordered a mech. switch. I'll let you know how it

BRAKE lights; If you still have the original pressure switch you may try replacing it. Your statement of needing to push very hard is relative. Compared to modern braking systems older brake systems will often require more pressure to stop. I do not have power brakes with my disc conversion. My pedal pressuer seems about the same. I did install a residual pressure switch so that my applying brakes is more even in application. You say you are told you have power brakes. When you open the hood is there a power brake booster on the drivers side inner fender? It may be defective or the plumbing installed with the disc brakes is incorrect. You say the pedal is high. What constitutes high? You should have about an inch or so of play even a bit less. You can alleviate some effort by repositioning the brake master cylinder on the pedal arm by about an inch down, for more leverage. Check your booster checked for proper operation, at least that is where I would start.

Thanks for your suggestions. I do have a power booster mounted to the inner fender. How do I determine if it is working properly? Is there a diagram of how the booster should be hooked up to system. BTW I do have a dual master break reservoir.

 

[Ward 57]

thanks for the advice. I've ordered a mech. switch. I'll let you know how it

Thanks for your suggestions. I do have a power booster mounted to the inner fender. How do I determine if it is working properly? Is there a diagram of how the booster should be hooked up to system. BTW I do have a dual master break reservoir.

According to the shop manual, Pump the brake to remove any residual vacuum, hold your foot on the pedal when you start it and you should feel it depress slightly to test if it's working. Adjusting the The shaft to the master to give yourself more play may help also for a better feel.