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- Reaction score
- 4
- Thunderbird Year
- 1956
Hello to all
I have been doing some homework on adding a backup electric fuel pump and thought I'd share.
This forum has a wonderful database to search and read through when we need help. So, kudos to all
After reading about the problems of replacement mechanical fuel pumps coming from China plus having to crank the starter too much
when firing up the car after sitting for awhile to fill the carb fuel bowls my obsession has returned.
This was quite interesting just starting with what type of pump to purchase. Many of the Thunderbird parts suppliers have auxiliary electric fuel pumps available
But I wondered again where these were made and how these are installed. Personally, I don't like the idea of plumbing this inline series for a couple of reasons.
Most manufacturers of these pumps recommend installing close to the fuel tank and not under the hood away from engine heat.
And most of these pumps don't create a lot of suction but push fuel much better than pulling, so a short column fuel lift height below 24".
There is NO WAY I would ever suggest mounting this in the trunk!! Bolted at tank height or slightly lower inside the frame on rubber mounts to reduce noise sounds much better.
With nothing sticking below the lowest flat horizontal frame height hanging down
Now back to that inline series plumbing. So the mechanical pump would have to suck fuel through the electric pump and the electric pump would have to push
fuel through the mechanical pump. Thinking I don't like this idea and planning on adding a second fuel line and tee fittings after the mechanical pump.
One way check valves would probably be wise to not back feed fuel. I would worry about a bad mechanical pump diaphragm leaking and fuel going into
my engine block and oil pan. Maybe a small fuel shutoff valve before the mechanical pump should it crap out?
Some safety concerns I have would be to install an oil pressure switch should the engine shut down for reasons other than fuel.
This 12 VDC input should be fused on the control side of a relay.
Inertia switch mounted vertical to rigid sheet metal in case of accident. Somewhere easily reached from inside the car to reset if needed.
This could be wired on the control ground side of the relay. Maybe fab up a bracket fastened inside the glovebox left side?
Maybe prevent getting out on the side of the highway to lift the hood and reset a switch tripped by a big thumping pothole?
A couple of toggle switches wired in could bypass the oil pressure switch should it give up. And the inertia switch if it won't reset.
At the flip of a switch the carb bowls could be filled without cranking the starter. A 2 pole oil pressure switch from the solenoid can turn on the fuel pump but the starter
would need to be running, then automatically switch on from the ignition switch power source.
Planning on tapping into the main oil galley plugs down the Y block drivers side for the extra switches and pressure gauge sensor as needed
I haven't heard or read any good things about cheap $60 plastic housing fuel pumps. And the ones listed from the thunderbird houses don't interest me either for the price.
Instead I spent about $160 on a Facet gold flo pump with fittings, rubber mounts and extra fuel filters. Facet and Purolator are the companies that bought out
the old Bendix fuel pump company and still USA made. But we shall see how much noise this thing makes.
Some of the more expensive Carter pumps seem to get pretty good reviews.
BTW the old teapot carb is outta here and a Holly 465 CFM square bore with vacuum 2nds and electric choke took its place and never a problem since.
This car was purchased for road trips in retirement, last thing I need is failure 1000+ miles from home. Trying to not give it a choice.
Please share with any comments and other ideas!!
Will post more near future
All be well
Bobby
I have been doing some homework on adding a backup electric fuel pump and thought I'd share.
This forum has a wonderful database to search and read through when we need help. So, kudos to all
After reading about the problems of replacement mechanical fuel pumps coming from China plus having to crank the starter too much
when firing up the car after sitting for awhile to fill the carb fuel bowls my obsession has returned.
This was quite interesting just starting with what type of pump to purchase. Many of the Thunderbird parts suppliers have auxiliary electric fuel pumps available
But I wondered again where these were made and how these are installed. Personally, I don't like the idea of plumbing this inline series for a couple of reasons.
Most manufacturers of these pumps recommend installing close to the fuel tank and not under the hood away from engine heat.
And most of these pumps don't create a lot of suction but push fuel much better than pulling, so a short column fuel lift height below 24".
There is NO WAY I would ever suggest mounting this in the trunk!! Bolted at tank height or slightly lower inside the frame on rubber mounts to reduce noise sounds much better.
With nothing sticking below the lowest flat horizontal frame height hanging down
Now back to that inline series plumbing. So the mechanical pump would have to suck fuel through the electric pump and the electric pump would have to push
fuel through the mechanical pump. Thinking I don't like this idea and planning on adding a second fuel line and tee fittings after the mechanical pump.
One way check valves would probably be wise to not back feed fuel. I would worry about a bad mechanical pump diaphragm leaking and fuel going into
my engine block and oil pan. Maybe a small fuel shutoff valve before the mechanical pump should it crap out?
Some safety concerns I have would be to install an oil pressure switch should the engine shut down for reasons other than fuel.
This 12 VDC input should be fused on the control side of a relay.
Inertia switch mounted vertical to rigid sheet metal in case of accident. Somewhere easily reached from inside the car to reset if needed.
This could be wired on the control ground side of the relay. Maybe fab up a bracket fastened inside the glovebox left side?
Maybe prevent getting out on the side of the highway to lift the hood and reset a switch tripped by a big thumping pothole?
A couple of toggle switches wired in could bypass the oil pressure switch should it give up. And the inertia switch if it won't reset.
At the flip of a switch the carb bowls could be filled without cranking the starter. A 2 pole oil pressure switch from the solenoid can turn on the fuel pump but the starter
would need to be running, then automatically switch on from the ignition switch power source.
Planning on tapping into the main oil galley plugs down the Y block drivers side for the extra switches and pressure gauge sensor as needed
I haven't heard or read any good things about cheap $60 plastic housing fuel pumps. And the ones listed from the thunderbird houses don't interest me either for the price.
Instead I spent about $160 on a Facet gold flo pump with fittings, rubber mounts and extra fuel filters. Facet and Purolator are the companies that bought out
the old Bendix fuel pump company and still USA made. But we shall see how much noise this thing makes.
Some of the more expensive Carter pumps seem to get pretty good reviews.
BTW the old teapot carb is outta here and a Holly 465 CFM square bore with vacuum 2nds and electric choke took its place and never a problem since.
This car was purchased for road trips in retirement, last thing I need is failure 1000+ miles from home. Trying to not give it a choice.
Please share with any comments and other ideas!!
Will post more near future
All be well
Bobby
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