1955 Welwood brake conversion

[bobandjudy2]

I’m hoping to upgrade front brakes to a Welwood brake system using their full kit. I currently have manual brakes on the 55 Thunderbird. I would also like to replace master cylinder since mine is damaged. Anybody have any experience with this upgrade? Is it a direct bolt on for the 1955 thunderbird?

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[Machinehand]

I also have a 55 with manual brakes. I am using the Wilwood Dynalite front brake system - WIL-140-12922. It is a bolt on system. I am keeping the drums on the rear. So far, I am happy with it. The parts seem to be high quality and fit very well. I am still restoring the car and have not driven it. I have not selected a master cylinder/bore size yet either.

 

[bobandjudy2]

Your brake conversion looks great! Are you running the original Rims / wheels or are you upgrading them? Talking with Welwood they recommend their adjustable Proportioning valve (260-8419) and the Residual pressure valve (260-13784). Did you install those items also?

 

[Machinehand]

Thanks Bob. I plan on using the valves you mentioned above but I haven't installed them yet. I still have a lot of other work to do first.
My original thought was to go with 17" American Racing Salt Flats but 15" Black steels with Tbird poverty caps looks cool too. I haven't decided yet.
I would be interested in what master cylinder bore size Wilwood recommends for a front disc/rear drum manual brake setup on these birds.

 

[bobandjudy2]

Here is what Welwood suggests for master cylinder
For the master cylinder with that kit, you will want a 15/16” bore like our 260-14157 - https://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch?q=260-14157

Or the more compact (but wider) version 260-15521- https://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch?q=260-15521

 

[PJB]

I converted the front to disk brakes on my '55 using the Wildwood parts described (brakes, master cylinder, proportion valve and associated plumbing). Conversion was fairly simple...nothing overly technical about it. Brakes work great and I've been very happy with the change...I had parts to convert to power brakes and I opted to install disks instead. One suggestion, Wilwood now offers a "Compact Tandem" master cylinder which is an inch or two shorter than the Aluminum Tandem. Since the master cylinder extends over the exhaust manifold, the shorter length is a better fit.

 

[Jim B.]

I converted the front to disk brakes on my '55 using the Wildwood parts described (brakes, master cylinder, proportion valve and associated plumbing). Conversion was fairly simple...nothing overly technical about it. Brakes work great and I've been very happy with the change...I had parts to convert to power brakes and I opted to install disks instead. One suggestion, Wilwood now offers a "Compact Tandem" master cylinder which is an inch or two shorter than the Aluminum Tandem. Since the master cylinder extends over the exhaust manifold, the shorter length is a better fit.

Hey PJB,
I am planning a complete brake system conversion with disks all around and either electronic or manual parking/emergency brake calipers on the rear. My plan is to start with the front brakes only and keep the drums in the rear for now. What I have read is you need to boost the braking system when installing disks even if just the front as the disks require far more pressure than the drums and manually braking disks is extremely hard. Can you comment on that since you didn’t opt for power brakes?
Thanks in advance!
Jim

 

[PJB]

I don't believe boosting is necessary. (I didn't add anything.) I think pressure can be changed based on bore of the master cylinder installed. The proportioning valve allows pressure adjustment to the front and rear and is necessary (I'm fairly certain) with front disks and drum rears. I don't know for certain if it's required with disks all around but it would allow for fine tuning even if not required. I believe tech support at Wilwood could probably provide comprehensive and reliable recommendations to make sure you get the right pieces.

 

[Jim B.]

I don't believe boosting is necessary. (I didn't add anything.) I think pressure can be changed based on bore of the master cylinder installed. The proportioning valve allows pressure adjustment to the front and rear and is necessary (I'm fairly certain) with front disks and drum rears. I don't know for certain if it's required with disks all around but it would allow for fine tuning even if not required. I believe tech support at Wilwood could probably provide comprehensive and reliable recommendations to make sure you get the right pieces.

I’m going to follow your example to start as a booster requires relocating the battery and much more work. I think I do want to have power brakes eventually for my wife. She loves to drive the car but hates the manual brakes! And I do plan on getting Wilwood involved to get a brake expert’s input. I’m an electrician by trade and mechanically inclined but never got into cars. I’ve inherited a ‘55 Thunderchicken and a ‘69 Jaguar E-Type and I’ve become obsessed with modifying cars. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my 2013 GMC Sierra daily driver but I’ll be putting a Holley Terminator throttle body in it as well! My wife has said if she sees me open the hood to her new ‘26 BMW 430i, she will hire a hitman to at least break my fingers!!! 😂🤣😂🤣😂
One last question. What booster did you buy but not install? It doesn’t look like Wilwood offers one.
Thanks again for the advise!

 

[Machinehand]

Hey PJB,
I am planning a complete brake system conversion with disks all around and either electronic or manual parking/emergency brake calipers on the rear. My plan is to start with the front brakes only and keep the drums in the rear for now. What I have read is you need to boost the braking system when installing disks even if just the front as the disks require far more pressure than the drums and manually braking disks is extremely hard. Can you comment on that since you didn’t opt for power brakes?
Thanks in advance!
Jim

If you plan on going with discs on all 4 corners on a 55, it may be easier to update the rear axle to a 1957 9 inch. I know there are rear disc brake kits for that axle. I don't recall seeing any rear disc kits for the Dana 44, (Non-Jeep) although they may exist. If they do, it may be a complex job.

 

[Jim B.]

If you plan on going with discs on all 4 corners on a 55, it may be easier to update the rear axle to a 1957 9 inch. I know there are rear disc brake kits for that axle. I don't recall seeing any rear disc kits for the Dana 44, (Non-Jeep) although they may exist. If they do, it may be a complex job.

Much thanks Machinehand! I knew there may be an issue with the axle with the disk brakes but hadn't started that research. I've just seen it on other restomod T-Birds. This was to be my first question for Wilwood pertaining to the rear brakes. Another of my upgrades is going to be a Tremec TKX 5-speed transmission. This probably will require a new drive shaft and rear axle to take full advantage of the added torque and power, so that is why I planned on the brakes in phases. Both of those upgrades will be in '27. The budget for '26 is pretty much planned for!