1955 tbird engine removal

[skidrdan]

Hi I purchased my 1955 Tbird last fall and I am know pulling the engine to replace the rear engine seal and other engine work. I have every thing un bolted an the engine and trany separated about 1 inch but they don't want to come apart. do I have to remove the throughout bearing release arm. I can't think of what else might be holding it. Also looking for advice on what type of rear sear to install. many more questions to come. thanks in advance

 

[Tater Salad]

Hi I purchased my 1955 Tbird last fall and I am know pulling the engine to replace the rear engine seal and other engine work. I have every thing un bolted an the engine and trany separated about 1 inch but they don't want to come apart. do I have to remove the throughout bearing release arm. I can't think of what else might be holding it. Also looking for advice on what type of rear sear to install. many more questions to come. thanks in advance

From the 55 shop manual. Hope it's helpful. Mine has the fordomatic, and I'd hate to try and remove those flywheel bolts in the car. Was pretty simple after removed as one piece. Good luck

 

[jack-in-sac]

Hi I purchased my 1955 Tbird last fall and I am know pulling the engine to replace the rear engine seal and other engine work. I have every thing un bolted an the engine and trany separated about 1 inch but they don't want to come apart. do I have to remove the throughout bearing release arm. I can't think of what else might be holding it. Also looking for advice on what type of rear sear to install. many more questions to come. thanks in advance

Weel, apparently not everything is un-bolted.
Have you removed the steady rests? Apparent;ly you have a manual transmission;
Have you removed the front motor mount?
Okay the tranny is separated; but how far apart are they. The input shaft needs to clear the bellhousing if bell housing is still attached to the engine. If the bell housing is unbolted from the engine The engine needs to go forward far enough to clear the input shaft of the transmission frrom the clutch pressure plate. I recommend undoing the transmission from the bell housing to allow moving the transmission back as far as possible. Also at this point is the linkage to the transmission and the rear transmission mount removed? You don't mention overdrive so I am not addressing that which also requires some disconnections.
You need to remove the radiator to allow enough space to move the engine forward. Are all the wires and linkages to the engine removed from the engine. Have you removed the attached clutch linkage at the engine? Is the yoke to actuate the clutch through the throw out bearing undone?
That should about do it. Oh yes support the transmission from falling on to the ground onto the input shaft.
Last; Do you have a shop manual. If not get one.
good luck, J.

 

[skidrdan]

thank you for all the info. I didn't have the front of the engine high enough to clear the front engine mount bolt that sticks up. I did get the engine out, now i will replace parts as needed. i need to do a leak down test because the number 8 and 7 cylinders were weak. Doy have any advice on rear main seal? thanks again

 

[skidrdan]

From the 55 shop manual. Hope it's helpful. Mine has the fordomatic, and I'd hate to try and remove those flywheel bolts in the car. Was pretty simple after removed as one piece. Good luck

Thanks Tater, I did get the motor out. I didn't have the front of the engine high enough to clear the front engine mount bolt that sticks up a bit. thanks for the pages. they are hard to read the hole page, but thanks for the effort. More questions to come soon. thanks again. Dan

 

[jack-in-sac]

thank you for all the info. I didn't have the front of the engine high enough to clear the front engine mount bolt that sticks up. I did get the engine out, now i will replace parts as needed. i need to do a leak down test because the number 8 and 7 cylinders were weak. Doy have any advice on rear main seal? thanks again

If you have a 312, not likely in a '55 unless engine has been replaced. You have various options with no perfect options. 312s use a different seal than 292s. 292 replacement seals are usually not nearly as leak prone. There is no clear winner between rope or rubber. Rope without asbestos is not as good as it used to be.. As to the leak down tes it might have been easier with the engine in the car so that you could turn it over with the starter to build cylinder pressure.. good luck, J.

 

[henro]

just take the rocker shafts off, then install an sir line adapter into one cylinder at a time. put about 120# of air pressure from a compressor, and you can then listen where the air is by-passing the piston rings, valves,etc.

 

[skidrdan]

just take the rocker shafts off, then install an sir line adapter into one cylinder at a time. put about 120# of air pressure from a compressor, and you can then listen where the air is by-passing the piston rings, valves,etc.

got it , seem like rings on # 7 are weak. will have to go the hole way. Big adventure!

 

[henro]

got it , seem like rings on # 7 are weak. will have to go the hole way. Big adventure!

Mark the connecting rods.i use a serpunch and put 1-8 punch markks

 

[doug7740]

Before you remove the pistons from the cylinders, make sure you use a ridge reamer to remove the ridge from the top of the cylinder walls. If you don't there is a chance that you will damage the ring lands on the pistons.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[skidrdan]

wow thank so much. It has been many years since i have done much engine work any info lik that is very helpful. do you know can i turn the ring gear over or will i need a new one? it didn't seem to be a problem there is definitely wear on it seems this is the time to address it. Also do the lifters come out with a magnet out the tot or after the camshaft has been removed? Just getting to that point. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Dan

 

[doug7740]

Dan,

If your Thunderbird has a standard transmission, the ring gear is less than $50.00 from most of the Thunderbird parts suppliers. At that price I would just replace the ring gear.

I have been an automotive technician for over 40 years and I recently completed rebuilt a Thunderbird engine for the Crawford Auto Museum in Cleveland, Ohio. To answer your question regarding the lifters. The lifters do not come out from the top; you have to remove the camshaft first and then remove the lifters from inside the crank case.

I attached pictures of the lifters and camshaft from the engine I just finished rebuilding.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[doug7740]

Dan,

I work at the Preservation/Restoration center of the Crawford Auto Museum and we are in the process of restoring a 1955 Thunderbird. After I finished rebuilding this Thunderbird engine, I gave it a very short test run on the frame to make sure there were no leaks or abnormal noises. Other than having to adjust the valves once again due to the new camshaft and lifters, the engine ran perfectly and there were no leaks.

Attached is a video I took of the engine running on the frame.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[skidrdan]

Dan,

If your Thunderbird has a standard transmission, the ring gear is less than $50.00 from most of the Thunderbird parts suppliers. At that price I would just replace the ring gear.

I have been an automotive technician for over 40 years and I recently completed rebuilt a Thunderbird engine for the Crawford Auto Museum in Cleveland, Ohio. To answer your question regarding the lifters. The lifters do not come out from the top; you have to remove the camshaft first and then remove the lifters from inside the crank case.

I attached pictures of the lifters and camshaft from the engine I just finished rebuilding.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Dan,

I work at the Preservation/Restoration center of the Crawford Auto Museum and we are in the process of restoring a 1955 Thunderbird. After I finished rebuilding this Thunderbird engine, I gave it a very short test run on the frame to make sure there were no leaks or abnormal noises. Other than having to adjust the valves once again due to the new camshaft and lifters, the engine ran perfectly and there were no leaks.

Attached is a video I took of the engine running on the frame.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

what a wonderful job to have . You are lucky. thanks a gain for sharing info. I will have to do a lot of research to do this work and listen to the wisdom of others with great skill and knowledge and take my time to end up with a engine that will purr like yours. can't wait, but I will .