1955 - Maintenance tips and a few questions

[CuriousCarl]

Hi everyone!

So almost a year ago, I joined this awesome forum and asked about a strange backend/continental kit for a 1955 (thread). Then a few months later I asked a few questions about restoration costs (thread) for my great-great grandmother's 1955 Thunderbird and you all were amazing. Well, we did it. We had the car towed to a reputable Thunderbird shop and had them get it road ready (updated pictures below). Driving it home from the shop was a bit nerve-racking as I have VERY little automotive or mechanical knowledge, but I couldn't be happier. Now the small restoration begins which I'm hoping to do myself. We still need to have the soft top and the interior restored, as well as paint (if we decide on that) and lining the trunk. After driving it the past couple days, I've noticed a few things that I was hoping you all might be able to help me with since, like I said, I know almost nothing about cars, engine, or maintenance (I'm learning, I swear!) and you all were so incredibly kind the first couple times I posted.

-When starting it cold (essentially starting it a day or two after it's not been driven), it doesn't fire up right away. I can hear it trying to turn over but it doesn't seem to engage. On the second attempt, it's fired up no problem. Is that normal?

-There's a bit of oil leakage under the engine after driving it. It doesn't seem to be anything too concerning but it's probably the size of beer coaster.

-We took it on the freeway (stayed in the slow lane) and after we returned to service streets, I noticed the handling was a bit sloppy. Like I was lightly fighting the car. After getting lunch, the handling seemed fine. Does the handling loosen when driven? Or was this just my imagination and bad roads?

-There's a pipe underneath the engine that seemed to be blowing out either smoke, or steam. That's, uh... supposed to be there, right? (I'm so embarrassed asking that question.)

-The brakes are brand new, but they still squeak when coming to a stop. Will that subside?

-Any other tips, things I should know, or recommendations to keep up the car or restore it?

Thank you all so incredibly much. I truly appreciate it.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[zeroroadkill]

The Delayed starting after sitting is normal. These Bird's have a tendency to boil (evaporate) carburetor fuel due to the hot intake manifold. Just let the fuel pump catch up and fill the float bowl.

The oil leak could be the rear main seal? Where is the leak located underneath? Is under the rear of the engine or by the crankcase vent tube?

The smoke coming out of the crankcase breather tube is usually blow-by which could be caused by worn rings or valve seats. Pop off the oil fill cap and see if your're getting any smoke there.

Steering, if it handled tight on the freeway it might just be surface roads? Check all rubber bushings, tie rods, Pittman arm, steering box, tires, wheel bearing adjustment, alignment, shocks, etc.

Brakes, did they turn the drums? Could be just dust???

 

[Ward 57]

When starting a cold carbureted car you need to pump the throttle 2-3 times to get fuel into the intake and set the choke. The pipe you are talking about is called the road draft tube. Those were used before PVC valves were incorporated to take care of fumes in the block. When driving the air flowing past this tube vacuums the block with air entering through the oil filler cap. If the car hasn't been driven in a long time the piston rings may need to seat again. If it still happens after a few hundred miles the engine may be getting tired. Couldn't hurt to run a little thicker oil that is also designed for high milage motors. My shop recommends Castrol GTX high milage and has a good dose of zinc. The oil drip is very common on the 'Y' blocks and is a hit or miss situation with replacing the seal and not easy. I keep a drip tray under mine in the garage.
It's possible the suspension and steering bushings just need to be exercised if there is very minimal play in the steering wheel when at rest.
It's possible the brakes just need to be broken in more and frequent adjusting for a while, a good skill to learn on non self-adjusting brakes.
As far as I know the '55 trunks were pretty sparse with just a rubber mat on the floor.

 

[jsonny]

The Delayed starting after sitting is normal. These Bird's have a tendency to boil (evaporate) carburetor fuel due tot he hot intake manifold. Just let the fuel pump catch up and fill the float bowl.

The oil leak is probably the rear main seal? Where is the leak located underneath? Is under the rear of the engine or by the crankcase tube?
ber
The smoke coming out of the crankcase breather tube is usually blowbye which could be caused by worn rings or valve seats. Pop off the oil fill cap and see if your're getting any smoke there.

Steering, if it handled tight on the freeway it might just be surface roads? tCheck all rubber bushings, tie rods, Pittman arm, steering box etc.

Brakes, did they turn the drums? Could be just dust???

Good answers. I am a new '57 owner and it has been in and out of the shop for restoration since last October. Questions seem similar to mine during my journey. If mine sits for a few days, I have to pump the foot feed to get some gas into the carb and the longer it sits, the more I have to pump. I was told that the Bird will always "leak" but now I think it is more of roof leaks than oil, even though I .have a couple of small oil leaks which I plan to look at in the future. I had steering problems also, most of which were cleared by having an alignment but still have road vibration; will look into that later. Maybe new shocks would help. And new brakes sometimes squeak for a while until worn in. Yes, it is an "adventure" for new T-Bird owners but worth the time.

 

[swatson999]

-We took it on the freeway (stayed in the slow lane) and after we returned to service streets, I noticed the handling was a bit sloppy.

When we got mine delivered and got a chance to *really* drive it, it was apparent that steering was loose...quite a bit of lag between turning the wheel and the car *actually* responding. Got her up on jackstands, and found all *sorts* of loose stuff in the front end...up to and including the bolts holding the wheel/brake backplate to the running gear! Tightened everything up, got an alignment done, and it's been great! Now, just have to get under there and make the adjustment to center the steering wheel (gave the turnbuckles one full turn, and it went from a couple of inches to the left to a couple of inches to the right LOL! Needs half a turn back on both sides now).

So get the shop manual, check the torque specs, and get underneath and check *everything*.

 

[CuriousCarl]

Thank you so much for everyone's response. You're all so helpful and I truly do appreciate it.

Just let the fuel pump catch up and fill the float bowl.

To do this, should I give it a bit of gas when starting it?

Where is the leak located underneath? Is under the rear of the engine or by the crankcase vent tube?

The drip is coming from around the middle of the engine. I believe it's by the vent tube.

Brakes, did they turn the drums? Could be just dust???

I'm hoping it's just dust. I did realize that after about the first 15 or so miles, the parking break wasn't fully disengaged (which obviously isn't break). Could that have had some sort of adverse effect that would cause the breaks to squeal?

The pipe you are talking about is called the road draft tube. Those were used before PVC valves were incorporated to take care of fumes in the block. When driving the air flowing past this tube vacuums the block with air entering through the oil filler cap. If the car hasn't been driven in a long time the piston rings may need to seat again. If it still happens after a few hundred miles the engine may be getting tired. Couldn't hurt to run a little thicker oil that is also designed for high milage motors. My shop recommends Castrol GTX high milage and has a good dose of zinc.

This is very helpful. Thank you. That was another question I had - which oil would you all recommend that I keep on hand. Castrol GTX high mileage is the way to go?

It's possible the suspension and steering bushings just need to be exercised if there is very minimal play in the steering wheel when at rest.

What do you mean by exercised? Just driven?

When we got mine delivered and got a chance to *really* drive it, it was apparent that steering was loose...quite a bit of lag between turning the wheel and the car *actually* responding. Got her up on jackstands, and found all *sorts* of loose stuff in the front end...up to and including the bolts holding the wheel/brake backplate to the running gear! Tightened everything up, got an alignment done, and it's been great!

I think that's what we'll do if the problem persists. Get an alignment done. Probably should be done anyway. Excuse my ignorance, but is that an expensive process?

So get the shop manual, check the torque specs, and get underneath and check *everything*.

Already got it! Now I just need space, tools, and years of automotive knowledge!

Thank you all so much again!

 

[CSPIDY]

If the brake pads are allowed to drag on the drum (having the park brake on slightly) this could put a glazing on the pads.
If you remove the drum you can ruff up the pads if they are shinny looking, with sand paper

You would need to crank the engine over a bit longer during the first startup after sitting
Unless you have an electric fuel pump. In which case you would turn the pump on and not engage the starter until you hear the pump start to Baugh down

 

[swatson999]

...found all *sorts* of loose stuff in the front end...up to and including the bolts holding the wheel/brake backplate to the running gear! Tightened everything up, got an alignment done...

I think that's what we'll do if the problem persists. Get an alignment done. Probably should be done anyway. Excuse my ignorance, but is that an expensive process?

That's all well and good, but an alignment shop isn't going to crawl under your car and go around checking and tightening up all the components of the front end. They're going to set camber, caster and toe-in, and that's it. If you align it *first* and *then* find loose elements, you'll have had it aligned for nothing.

Alignments aren't that expensive, in the grand scheme of things. Have you never had a car aligned before?

 

[Ward 57]

If the brake pads are allowed to drag on the drum (having the park brake on slightly) this could put a glazing on the pads.
If you remove the drum you can ruff up the pads if they are shinny looking, with sand paper

You would need to crank the engine over a bit longer during the first startup after sitting
Unless you have an electric fuel pump. In which case you would turn the pump on and not engage the starter until you hear the pump start to Baugh down

There is never a problem with cranking until the oil light goes off. Cold starts before the bearings are up to pressure could cause unneeded wear.

 

[willcarterdc]

That's all well and good, but an alignment shop isn't going to crawl under your car and go around checking and tightening up all the components of the front end. They're going to set camber, caster and toe-in, and that's it. If you align it *first* and *then* find loose elements, you'll have had it aligned for nothing.

Alignments aren't that expensive, in the grand scheme of things. Have you never had a car aligned before?

Actually, in my experience, a good alignment shop *will* check the components of the front end before doing the alignment. The shop I just had my ‘57 aligned at did so, and advised that they should fix the things they found before doing the alignment. Indeed, I would suggest that the original poster affirmatively ask the alignment shop to first check the front end components.

Also: plenty of people have never had an alignment done. On a newer car, most people wouldn’t specifically get an alignment unless something goes amiss (an accident, etc.). I’ve been driving for 35 years and have only ever affirmatively gotten an alignment done once on a modern car, after a minor accident. Otherwise, my modern cars just get aligned whenever it’s called for as part of the regular service intervals, and most consumers (including me) really don’t get into the weeds of what that entails. So, I’m sure that many people “have never had a car aligned before” in the sense of taking a car specifically to get an alignment.

To the OP: I don’t have the receipt in front of me, but the alignment wasn’t expensive at all. Maybe $100? Do note, however, that a typical alignment shop isn’t going to have the capacity to do an alignment on a ‘55 unless you provide them with the specs. (A search will pull up a lot of threads here and elsewhere about Baby Bird alignment specs.)

 

[swatson999]

Hi everyone!

So almost a year ago, I joined this awesome forum and asked about a strange backend/continental kit for a 1955 (thread). Then a few months later I asked a few questions about restoration costs (thread) for my great-great grandmother's 1955 Thunderbird and you all were amazing. Well, we did it. We had the car towed to a reputable Thunderbird shop and had them get it road ready (updated pictures below). View attachment 24954

This wouldn't be Prestige in Santa Fe Springs, would it? Are you in the SoCal area?

 

[Ward 57]

Yes, the tires are VERY important. I had one just collapse while sitting in the garage just a week or two after I took my wife's son for a drive. Frightening on what could happen. Someone in a car club drive had the left rear disintegrate, broke the fuel line and caught the car on fire.
As I was moving in a couple of months I just had the tire shop put on standard narrow whitewalls. They developed irreplicable yellowing. Went with porta-wall overlays as a driver you wouldn't know I did it for 1/4 the cost of Cokers or Diamondbacks and the like.

 

[knuckle47]

My 57 is so predictable on starting…. After 7-10 days, as @willcarterdc showed in the manual, press the accelerator 1 time, crank until the oil light goes out and when it does press the accelerator 2-3 times and it starts. If started within 4 days of the previous start, you’d think it was fuel injected….instantly starts.

 

[doug7740]

Delayed starting after sitting is normal and each car has it's own starting procedure. Since Thunderbirds seem to flood very easily, I would suggest that you find the best procedure for starting your car.

This is the starting proocedure I came up with for starting my Thunderbird. Give it a try if you like, but just because this procedure works for my car doesn't mean its the best for starting your car.

Engine Starting Procedure:

• Cold Engine - Sitting Overnight - Sitting For A Few Days

1. Do not touch the accelerator; crank the engine over for 5 seconds. This not only fills the fuel filter bowl with fuel, it also builds up oil pressure.
2. Slowly push the accelerator pedal to the floor and then slowly release the accelerator pedal. This closes the choke assembly and primes the carburetor with fuel.
3. Do not touch the accelerator; crank the engine over for 5 seconds once again. If the engine starts, rev the engine once slightly.
4. If the engine did not start, depress the accelerator 3 times, but only ¼ pedal travel each time. This primes the carburetor with additional fuel, but keep in mind, T-Bird engines flood easily.
5. Crank the engine over once again and when the engine starts, rev the engine once slightly.

• Warm Engine - Sitting Less Than An Hour

1. Do not touch the accelerator; crank the engine over and when the engine starts rev the engine once slightly.

• Warm Engine - Sitting More Than An Hour

1. Depress the accelerator pedal ¼ pedal travel and hold it in that position. Crank the engine over and when the engine starts rev the engine once slightly.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[CuriousCarl]

Yes, that’s normal. Also: there’s a specific starting procedure outlined in the owner’s manual that you should follow. (Picture of the relevant page from the ‘57 owner’s manual is attached.)

That page from the manual is incredibly helpful. Thank you!

Do you know how old the tires are?

Tires are brand new.

What’s the depth of the fluid in that spot? Is it a *puddle* the size or a beer coaster?

Very shallow. I can see the cardboard through the oil.

I don’t have the receipt in front of me, but the alignment wasn’t expensive at all. Maybe $100?

Oh that's totally fine. That's no problem at all. I was expecting a lot more. Great news!

My 57 is so predictable on starting…. After 7-10 days, as @willcarterdc showed in the manual, press the accelerator 1 time, crank until the oil light goes out and when it does press the accelerator 2-3 times and it starts. If started within 4 days of the previous start, you’d think it was fuel injected….instantly starts.

Great advice! Thank you


As always, thank you all so very much! I'm going to take her out this week for a decently lengthy drive so I'm sure I'll be back with more questions on Monday. Have a great weekend everyone!