1955 heavy steering

[OlleHi]

I have a newly renovated 1955 thunderbird with new parts in the front suspension.
And I have had the car for wheel alignment, on two occasions. I have confidence for them, they have worked a lot with classic cars, so it should be correct.
But, the steering is very heavy. When I turn in into a corner I have to turn the steering back to center, it doesn't turn back automatically after the turn like it used to do. And parking is a workout!
If I have the front wheels lifted and turn the wheels manually it is also quite heavy. I have no servo in the car.
Somthing with the steering box?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I live in Sweden by the way 🙂

Thanks
Olle

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[dmsfrr]

For more 'return to center' have the alignment shop add more positive "caster" to their adjustments. (diagram attached)

What air pressure are you using in the tires? They may be too low. Are they new radial tires? Are they wider than the car had before?
.

 

[zeroroadkill]

Is your steering box adjusted correctly? with the wheels off the ground it should be easy to turn the wheel lock to lock. How much play do you have in the steering wheel with the wheels on the ground?

 

[55blacktie]

Do "new parts" include ball joints? If so, it could be caused by an aftermarket ball joint. According to experts, the original 55-57 ball joints are over-engineered, larger than need be, and don't wear out. Unfortunately, I damaged the threads on my passenger-side upper ball joint during installation and replaced it with an aftermarket ball joint (made in India) sold by one of the Tbird suppliers. After I installed it, it took considerable force to rotate the spindle in and out. I researched the problem and found that it is not uncommon. Sometimes it's necessary to put a few miles on it for it to seat, at which point it should loosen up. However, in case mine doesn't, I now have a NOS ball joint that I will take with me when the car goes to the alignment shop. If necessary, the aftermarket ball joint will be replaced.

 

[OlleHi]

For more 'return to center' have the alignment shop add more positive "caster" to their adjustments. (diagram attached)

What air pressure are you using in the tires? They may be too low. Are they new radial tires? Are they wider than the car had before?
.

I've also heard that more positive caster should solve it, but when the wheels are off the ground it is quite heavy to turn the wheels by hand. So I don't think that is the solution. And I did try with higher tire pressure.
The tires are quite new radials, I believe same size as original.
One suggestion was to disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box to see if it still is heavy to turn the wheels. If it is, it's something in the linkage, if it is much lighter to turn the wheel it is in the steering box. Might be interesting to test.

 

[OlleHi]

Is your steering box adjusted correctly? with the wheels off the ground it should be easy to turn the wheel lock to lock. How much play do you have in the steering wheel with the wheels on the ground?

The steering is adjusted so I have have only a small play in the wheel when centered. I have read somewhere that there are other adjustments you can do on the steering box, but I don't know how. Maybe it has to come out of the car then?

 

[zeroroadkill]

I don’t know of any other adjustment except for shims inside. With the wheels lock to lock, you should have more play at each end compared to the middle if I recall correctly. You mentioned the steering box was adjusted, who did that? Check out this article.

 

[OlleHi]

I don’t know of any other adjustment except for shims inside. With the wheels lock to lock, you should have more play at each end compared to the middle if I recall correctly. You mentioned the steering box was adjusted, who did that? Check out this article.

This is the adjustment I did to correct the play in the steering. But it doesn't help the heavy steering. I have heard about the adjustment with shims, but I will disconnect the pitman arm to see if it becomes easier to turn the wheels when lifted to see if the heavy feeling comes from the linkage or from the steering box.

 

[doug7740]

Is it possible that you turned the adjustment screw too much when you made the steering box adjustment to correct the excessive play? When I wrote the article that zeroroadkill attached, I stated that If you turn the adjustment screw too much you will be able to turn the steering wheel left or right, but then it will not return to the straight ahead position. I think it is a good idea to disconnect the pitman arm to see if it becomes easier, but if your car has power steering be careful not to damage the control valve.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[OlleHi]

Is it possible that you turned the adjustment screw too much when you made the steering box adjustment to correct the excessive play? When I wrote the article that zeroroadkill attached, I stated that If you turn the adjustment screw too much you will be able to turn the steering wheel left or right, but then it will not return to the straight ahead position. I think it is a good idea to disconnect the pitman arm to see if it becomes easier, but if your car has power steering be careful not to damage the control valve.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Disconnected the pitman arm, the steeringwheel became as light as if it wasn't connected to anything at all, but turning the wheels was still quite heavy.
I am afraid what 55blacktie wrote in this post might be correct, that the new parts is not exactly up to specs. I bought the parts from Casco which has a good reputation, at least here in Sweden.

 

[OlleHi]

Do "new parts" include ball joints? If so, it could be caused by an aftermarket ball joint. According to experts, the original 55-57 ball joints are over-engineered, larger than need be, and don't wear out. Unfortunately, I damaged the threads on my passenger-side upper ball joint during installation and replaced it with an aftermarket ball joint (made in India) sold by one of the Tbird suppliers. After I installed it, it took considerable force to rotate the spindle in and out. I researched the problem and found that it is not uncommon. Sometimes it's necessary to put a few miles on it for it to seat, at which point it should loosen up. However, in case mine doesn't, I now have a NOS ball joint that I will take with me when the car goes to the alignment shop. If necessary, the aftermarket ball joint will be replaced.

I have disconnected the pitman arm, but still the wheels are heavy to turn. Not the steeringwheel. So it seems to be the same problem as you mention.
I bought the parts from Casco, I don't know where they are made, but I spoke to a Thunderbird guy here in Sweden who have restored a couple of Thunderbirds, and he does not recall any problems like this.
So maybe I just have to live with it, but it is quite annoying.