1955 Hardtop weather stripping installation | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Click here to remove google ads from the site
  • Click " Like/Thanks" at the bottom of a member's post to reward and thank them for their response! Points are added to their profile.
  • Get rid of swirls and minor paint surface scratches with this Polish & Compounds kit. Click here to read more!.

1955 Hardtop weather stripping installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter zeroroadkill
  • Start date Start date
HELP !!! Installed weatherstrip on hardtop no problem. That job was EASY ......Then took out the rear strip. Mistake of Biblical proportions......

Cannot find a way to install the most rear one.
Has aluminum metal trench about 1/4" wide . Noted that replacement has a flared side. Tried pushing it in with screwdriver head. I get about
a foot of progress then it starts piling up and no more progress.

Is there a trick to doing this job ? If there is one, I would sure like to know what it is. I am getting nowhere and have spent a few hours getting nowhere.
Can I ask you where did you bought them ? I got them from the catalog of CONCOURSPARTS.com and they don’t fit well and I just returned them. Thank you

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Can I ask you where did you bought them ? I got them from the catalog of CONCOURSPARTS.com and they don’t fit well and I just returned them. I need the correct size, Thank you
 
Hoping this might help someone.

Just finished installing new weather seals on the hardtop from my 1956 T-Bird. The outer seal, as you no doubt have read is the most challenging.
On the outer seal that goes into the U-shaped channel on the outside of the hardtop, I attempted to use the plastic spudger (trim tool) mentioned in this thread with limited success.

Here's my approach:
I worked on the top sitting on a body panel support stand that I purchased at Eastwood. So the hardtop is upside down.
Remove the original seal, note the orientation. The square part of the inserted section of the seal goes towards the inside of the hardtop.
Clean up the channel with brake clean, and I used an aluminum bristle brush and pick tool. Try and get as much of the old seal out as possible. It will make the installation that much easier
After cleaning the channel, time to install the new seal, oriented correctly as note above. Leave about 4 inches of the seal hanging out of the channel (at least for the seal that came from Concours Parts)
Initially, I proceeded to spend about 2 hours working with my trim tool and small screwdriver only to advance to the first curve. Note the curves are the most challenging. The remaining part of the seal was installed in about 40 minutes using a machinist metal rule. (See the attached photo). The rule is thin metal, but rigid, so that you can insert the rule into the outer part of the channel to insert the part of the seal that holds it in place. Use the curved end of the rule to minimize the chance of damaging the seal. Press on the top of the seal (this is the part that will contact the bodywork) while using the rule to insert the seal. The ability to insert the rule into the channel along with the seal insures that you can get the seal inserted correctly.
The two curves are the most challenging, because the radius will not accommodate the metal rule. Here I had better success with a thin flat head screwdriver.
After your done trim the excess to the edge of the hardtop.
I'm a big fan of something called Gummi Pflege. Works really well to moisturize seals. I applied some to the new seals to protect them.
You are done.
Hope this helps someone.IMG_3704.jpgIMG_3708.jpg
 
Well, I tried the silicone spray and got about 12” to slide in then hard stop! So I tried a dull rounded putty knife and a small screwdriver. With a lot of force it took me 30 minutes to get 16” in, then I came up to the curve and another hard stop! I did notice the grove around the curve was tighter. I also noticed that the screwdriver was roughing up the rubber. Silicone didn’t seem to help. This is going to be a real chore!
 
Leave channel out side in hot sun put molding in freezer got move quickly
 
we had to do this twice on a car we were doing for a customer. I can't remember why. I used a plastic tool from one of those inexpensive interior trim removal tool kits that you use to remove door panels, etc. I did not use any lubricant, but started at one end and worked the rubber in with the tool all away around the top. We had to remove it for some reason and do it again, I don't remember why, but I remember pulling it out and then re-installing it again.
 
Just got mine done on a 55.
The rubber is 180 k thick that fits in the groove.
Bought a metal washer and opened the channel to 140k.
Fit right in with a little screwdriver and downward force on the rubber.
 
Back
Top