1955 door adjustment | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models
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1955 door adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter lbc3
  • Start date Start date
lbc3
Reaction score
10
Thunderbird Year
1955
Does anyone know which direction each of the hinge bolts move the door? My passenger door sits a bit low in the back and also juts out at the bottom rear of the door. I've read here comments that the doors on these cars typically don't fit that well, but I'm hoping I can get some movement if I loosen the hinge bolts, but which one(s)? I'm hoping just the ones on the frame, and not the ones behind the door panel.

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Does anyone know which direction each of the hinge bolts move the door? My passenger door sits a bit low in the back and also juts out at the bottom rear of the door. I've read here comments that the doors on these cars typically don't fit that well, but I'm hoping I can get some movement if I loosen the hinge bolts, but which one(s)? I'm hoping just the ones on the frame, and not the ones behind the door panel.
The ones on the frame in front are slotted from what I can see such that they could move the door inward and outward from the body. I would think they might allow a small amount of up and down movement but I can't see any slot for that. If you mainly want to raise the rear of the door I think you would need to loosen the hinge bolts inside the door. An issue that could come up is that if the front of the door gap to the front fender is where you want it and you raise the rear of the door that's going to open up the lower part of that front gap and tighten up the upper part of the front gap. It's all interrelated. I think you'll also find that you need to loosen all of the bolts in both hinges on the door inside (not on the frame part) in order to "rotate" the back of the door up. If you only loosen the top hinge to try and rotate the door up, the bolts on the bottom hinge will be trying to stop any such rotation.
 
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My experience with doors fitting correctly has always resulted in a compromise. I also agree that from the factory, cars from this error may have not fit the best to begin with. I try to keep in mind that the car has been subjected to 70 years of gravity pulling on everything, plus twisting forces from driving, pot holes, maybe an accident or two, many forceful door closing slamming, poorly fitting aftermarket weather stripping, etc.
 
My experience with doors fitting correctly has always resulted in a compromise. I also agree that from the factory, cars from this error may have not fit the best to begin with. I try to keep in mind that the car has been subjected to 70 years of gravity pulling on everything, plus twisting forces from driving, pot holes, maybe an accident or two, many forceful door closing slamming, poorly fitting aftermarket weather stripping, etc.
I agree, also Rust can cause the doors to sag. The hinge boxes are welded to the outer fender and the inner wall/foot well. If the floors are weak the metal flexes and the doors sag. Pull the carpet back , open the door and lift it could be the hinges are worn but if you see the floor and that inner metal wall that the hinge boxes are welded to it might be time to reinforce the hinge boxes or, dare I say it. Major rust repair ( not for the faint of heart! Get lots of estimates )
 
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