1955 Dead after power window regulator install

[lbc3]

1955 dead after reinstalling power window regulator. Hooked all the wires in accordance with the disassembly pics I took. Tried the d/s switch...the pass window responded, so hit other switch and again the pass side reacted again. Hit the switch again and nothing at the window and nothing ANYWHERE. No power to anything. None of the glass fuses are blown; I am headed to the parts store to buy a stock of circuit breakers to replace the one I can see but if that doesn't work, does anyone have any suggestions?

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[cokefirst]

Describe dead. Are you saying that nothing has power. when you turn on the key, you have no oil or gen light? Do the headlamps light up? You need to start at the battery with a volt meter and see what is disconnected.

 

[rwood]

1955 dead after reinstalling power window regulator. Hooked all the wires in accordance with the disassembly pics I took. Tried the d/s switch...the pass window responded, so hit other switch and again the pass side reacted again. Hit the switch again and nothing at the window and nothing ANYWHERE. No power to anything. None of the glass fuses are blown; I am headed to the parts store to buy a stock of circuit breakers to replace the one I can see but if that doesn't work, does anyone have any suggestions?

So no power anywhere? Is your wiring original oem type or do you have an aftermarket harness with newer style fuses and links? If original style and no power anywhere? Check grounds starting with ground from the battery also , cables pos/ neg starting at the battery and working to main ground then hot from the battery to starter relay. Is the battery good? May seem like a dumb question but if it’s old and a draw was put to the plates in it might have shorted. Next are junction blocks under the dash . Or, do you have power going to the switch . If nothing is working and older wiring start from the battery checking for 12 volts(. 6 volts if oem ) and move out from there with a known good test light known good battery and known good ground. Best of lick

 

[lbc3]

Describe dead. Are you saying that nothing has power. when you turn on the key, you have no oil or gen light? Do the headlamps light up? You need to start at the battery with a volt meter and see what is disconnected.

There was no power, anywhere. No dash lights, instruments, etc. Replacing a circuit breaker under the dash restored power to everything. But now my problem is the power windows. After replacing the d/s regulator. Finally managed to get it installed and now the switches are not operating. The driver side window works well, but the pass side window will go up, but not down. I have replaced the relay at that window, but no change. I've swapped the wires every which way I can, but still no down operation. I am looking for replacement switches now, just throwing parts at it since I have no real electrical troubleshooting abilities.

 

[lbc3]

So no power anywhere? Is your wiring original oem type or do you have an aftermarket harness with newer style fuses and links? If original style and no power anywhere? Check grounds starting with ground from the battery also , cables pos/ neg starting at the battery and working to main ground then hot from the battery to starter relay. Is the battery good? May seem like a dumb question but if it’s old and a draw was put to the plates in it might have shorted. Next are junction blocks under the dash . Or, do you have power going to the switch . If nothing is working and older wiring start from the battery checking for 12 volts(. 6 volts if oem ) and move out from there with a known good test light known good battery and known good ground. Best of lick

Replacing a circuit breaker under the dash restored power. New challenge is the pass side power window. It will go up, but not down.

 

[Tom Alpers]

If your car has original wiring setup it makes no sense that EVERY thing went dead due to a breaker because there is no such breaker in the cars basic power feed circuits. The only breakers on the car are one for the windows and one for the power seat, both of which it is my understanding are high up under the dash, plus there are two breakers inside the headlight switch. A problem in the power window circut blowing it's breaker should not affect the interior lights or anything else. Where is the breaker you replaced located? Is it possible someone added a 'master breaker"?

 

[lbc3]

If your car has original wiring setup it makes no sense that EVERY thing went dead due to a breaker because there is no such breaker in the cars basic power feed circuits. The only breakers on the car are one for the windows and one for the power seat, both of which it is my understanding are high up under the dash, plus there are two breakers inside the headlight switch. A problem in the power window circut blowing it's breaker should not affect the interior lights or anything else. Where is the breaker you replaced located? Is it possible someone added a 'master breaker"?

Tom, I know, it makes no sense. But the car lost all power during the window regulator reinstall. Nothing, no crank, no dash lights, no headlights, horn, nothing. I assumed I "blew a fuse", and went looking. A computer search lead to the circuit breaker which, after replacing, resulted in the restoration of power to everything. But I agree, it shouldn't be. The only other thing I can think of is the battery power shutoff I have installed on the battery terminal, but I checked it was functional several times, but ...

Now the gremlins have migrated to the pass side window which will no longer go down...only up from the d/s switch. Still working on isolating that problem but with no electrical troubleshooting skills all I can do is throw parts at it.

 

[doug7740]

Power Window Operation, 6 volt Positive Ground:​

Left Window Motor Operation:

Power Circuit

Negative battery voltage originates from the battery terminal of the starter relay, goes through the 20-amp circuit breaker, through the red wire with a blue tracer, to the B terminal of the relay. When the relay is closed, this voltage comes out of the A terminal of the relay, through the green wire to the motor armature, and out through the black wire through the 20-amp circuit breaker to positive ground.

Control Circuit

Negative battery voltage originates from the A terminal of the ignition switch, goes through the 30-amp circuit breaker, through the black wire with the white tracer, to the left front master switch.

Upward​

• When the window switch is in the up position, the negative voltage goes out through the red wire to the to the top of the relay coil F, through the coil and out through the yellow wire, through the right-side window motor field coil, out through the black wire, through the 20-amp circuit breaker to positive ground. This closes the B to A terminals inside the relay completing the power circuit.
• At the same time the negative voltage at the top of relay coil F, continues through the red wire, through the left side window motor field coil, out through the black wire, through the 20-amp circuit breaker to positive ground.

Since negative voltage is at the top of the of the left window motor field coil, and positive voltage is at the top of the right window motor field coil, the window motor runs upward.

Downward​

• When the window switch is in the down position, the negative voltage goes out through the yellow wire to the to the bottom of the relay coil F, through the coil and out through the red wire, through the left side window motor field coil, out through the black wire, through the 20-amp circuit breaker to positive ground. This closes the B to A terminals inside the relay completing the power circuit.
• At the same time the negative voltage at the bottom of relay coil F, continues through the yellow wire, through the right-side window motor field coil, out through the black wire, through the 20-amp circuit breaker to positive ground.

Since negative voltage is at the top of the of the right window motor field coil, and positive voltage is at the top of the left window motor field coil, the window motor runs downward.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Tom Alpers]

Tom, I know, it makes no sense. But the car lost all power during the window regulator reinstall. Nothing, no crank, no dash lights, no headlights, horn, nothing. I assumed I "blew a fuse", and went looking. A computer search lead to the circuit breaker which, after replacing, resulted in the restoration of power to everything. But I agree, it shouldn't be. The only other thing I can think of is the battery power shutoff I have installed on the battery terminal, but I checked it was functional several times, but ...

Now the gremlins have migrated to the pass side window which will no longer go down...only up from the d/s switch. Still working on isolating that problem but with no electrical troubleshooting skills all I can do is throw parts at it.

I have had cars go "dead" after using something electrical and it was due to problems at the battery terminal. In one case it was loose, in another the replacement clamp was not making good contact with the cable.

 

[vernz]

As far as your window not operating, did you check the switches? I had a 1959 Tbird with power windows and had the same problem with operating in only 1 direction. I jumpered out the switch and the windows worked well. I then took apart all the window switches and cleaned them with particular attention to the contact surfaces. After that my windows worked better than they ever had. The switches are made so they come apart easily. Be careful with the plastic parts and work on them over a clean towel to catch any parts that fall out when you disassemble the switch. It is easy to figure out how they go together. It really is a pretty easy repair. Vern

 

[lbc3]

As far as your window not operating, did you check the switches? I had a 1959 Tbird with power windows and had the same problem with operating in only 1 direction. I jumpered out the switch and the windows worked well. I then took apart all the window switches and cleaned them with particular attention to the contact surfaces. After that my windows worked better than they ever had. The switches are made so they come apart easily. Be careful with the plastic parts and work on them over a clean towel to catch any parts that fall out when you disassemble the switch. It is easy to figure out how they go together. It really is a pretty easy repair. Vern

I will try that, Vern. I don't fancy myself much of an electrician, but I notice a new switch is only about $45 so I was thinking of just replacing them. Chat GPT says it might be the ground, though even that diagnosis, repair is over my head. Speaking of throwing parts at it, do you by chance no a source for an automatic transmission oil pan? Mine is leaking and appears to have some sort of aberration at one corner. I fear I will simply waste a gasket and fluid if I only do a new gasket, but I have not been able to find an aftermarket pan for the Ford o matic.

 

[vernz]

I can't help you with the transmission, but I urge you to try the switch repair. If you are thinking of replacing the switches you have nothing to lose by trying the repair first. You don't need to be an electrician, it really is a mechanical repair.

Vern