1955 charging issue | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models

1955 charging issue

NickIt
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Thunderbird Year
1955
Hi folks,

I suspect I have an issue with the charging system. The voltage at the battery terminals reads 6,47 V with the engine running or not... How can I troubleshoot the faulty component ?
Thanks,
Nick

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Hi folks,

I suspect I have an issue with the charging system. The voltage at the battery terminals reads 6,47 V with the engine running or not... How can I troubleshoot the faulty component ?
Thanks,
Nick
Regulator adjustment has become a lost art. For many years I got by with a 6V Optima battery and a specialized charger, which I hooked up whenever I garaged the car. If the gen. light wasn’t brightly lit when cruising, then no worries 😁. Besides, a fully charged battery alone will power the ignition for hundreds of miles.
For those unable to keep a charger connected, there is a solid-state 6V regulator conversion service available also. OEM regulators are cheap, so I always carried a new spare, plus another generator on long trips (if you forget to check if the gen. light goes out when parking, you may need both).
 
Last edited:
Hi folks,

I suspect I have an issue with the charging system. The voltage at the battery terminals reads 6,47 V with the engine running or not... How can I troubleshoot the faulty component ?
Thanks,
Nick
The charging system consists of the battery and cables, the alternator or generator, and an external voltage regulator. The function of the battery is to spin the starter motor to start the engine. Once that’s done, the alternator takes over, satisfying the car’s electrical demands and keeping the battery charged. The battery then acts primarily as a filter, keeping voltage spikes from damaging the car’s electronics. The voltage regulator rapidly switches the alternator in and out of the charging circuit to provide the car with the correct voltage.

In 1955, the electrical system of the Thunderbird was 6 volt positive ground. In 1956, the Thunderbird electrical system was changed to 12 volt negative ground. On the 12 volt system there are two important numbers to remember, they are 12.6 volts and 13.5 volts.

12.6 Volts: If you think your car has a 12 volt battery, it doesn’t. The 12 volt battery actually has six individual 2.1 volt cells (one under each fill cap). Thus, when fully charged, the battery should have a resting voltage of 12.6 volts. If with the engine off, the resting voltage is less than 12.6 volts, the battery is low and needs to be recharged. Of course, it begs the question of why the battery is low. It could be that the alternator isn’t working, or that the battery has reached the end of its useful life.

13.5 Volts: With the engine running, the alternator should output a charging voltage that’s about a volt higher than the resting voltage, or about 13.5 volts. The exact charging voltage may be as low as 13.2 volts or as high as 14.2 volts.

If your Thunderbird is a 1955, with a 6 volt, positive ground system, the resting voltage is 6.3 volts and the charging voltage should be about 7.1 volts. The exact charging voltage may be as low as 6.6 volts or as high as 7.1 volts.

Take a multi-meter and set it to measure DC voltage, then measure the voltage across the positive and negative battery terminals with the engine off. On a 12 volt system, a fully charged battery should read a resting voltage of 12.6 volts. After you start the car you should see a charging voltage of about a volt higher than resting voltage. If the reading doesn’t increase by about a volt or if it stays at the resting voltage, it means that the alternator isn’t recharging the battery. This could be because the alternator is defective, the regulator is defective, or the wiring between them has failed. In any case, if you drive the car, the battery will run down. If the battery runs down enough that the ignition stops firing, the engine will stall. It’s really important that you don’t simply jump-start a car with a dead battery without checking to see if the alternator is charging.

A basic charging system health test: Use a multi-meter to measure the resting and charging voltages as described above. Then, with the engine running, gradually increase the electrical load by turning on the headlights and the blower fan. Then increase the engine RPM to about 3500 as you watch the reading on the multi-meter. If the voltage stays about a volt higher than resting voltage, then the car’s charging system is functioning. But if the voltage drops or increases dramatically at any point, there’s a problem with the alternator or the voltage regulator.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Somebody knows his charging systems You woke up this sleepy ol'brain as to how much I had forgotten. THX!
 
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